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Thread: LED or Incandescent???

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    Otis B.'s Avatar
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    LED or Incandescent???

    Pool is in the process of being refurbished. I have only one light. It's in the deep end of a 34' lagoon shape pool. New plaster is going to be dark...Quartzscapes Barbados Blue. I need a new light but not sure whether to go back with another 500 watt incandescent or splurge for the Pentair Intellibrite 5G. Does anyone here have any input on the Intellibrite with a dark colored plaster?

    Thanks in advance!
    16,000 QuartzScapes Barbados Blue finish, Hayward 450 cluster cartridge, Hayward Max-Flo VS 1.5 HP, Goldline SWG

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    Besides the energy savings of the LED, most offer color changing options. In my opinion the color change is the biggest benefit, yes the energy savings is nice but we don't use the light often enough to notice the savings. Changing color on the other hand is just cool, it's like getting a new pool. The light has a white setting and that’ the one setting we hate makes the pool look like a cement pond.
    12,300 Gallon, IG PebbleFina, 3 ft sheer, 2 Jandy nicheless LED lights, Jandy Pro 1.5HP VS pump (A.O. Smith Motor), PB4-60 Booster pump, Polaris 280, Jandy cv340 cartridge filter, Zodiac Z4 control panel W/iAquaLink, Stenner pumps for chlorine & MA connected to WiOn WiFi switches, TF-100. You can support TFP with AmazonSmile just click the link!

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    Isaac-1's Avatar
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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    Its 2016 go LED
    Indoor 20x40 35,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump, Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter, 11 4x12 Techno-Solis solar panels w/ Aquasolar controller, Aquabot Turbo T Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and HotSpring Jetsetter
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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    100% go with multicolor LED. If you can swing the extra cash, I would add another light to the shallow end too.
    17k IG plaster pool+ spa, Stonescape mini-pebble midnight blue, marble coping, Trex and porcelain tile decking, Pentair Intelliflo VSP x 3 (filter, laminars and spa jets), Pentair IC40, Pentair MasterTemp 400, Pentair Quad DE 100, Pentair CC 150 for laminars, Intellibrite 5G LEDs, MagicStream Laminars x 3, Intellitouch i9+3 automation with Screenlogic2, IntellipH, Dolphin s300i, TFTest kit, SpeedStir

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    jdomke1's Avatar
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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    I replaced my two pool and one spa light with Pentair Intellibrite 5G LED 12V color lights. I originally had Pentair SaM lights. I have a question for others who have repaired or replaced your SaM light. In two of the three light niches I found this weird pink stick thing sitting inside. No idea what it is or why it's there. I didn't put back in. See attached photos.


    28,000 in ground gunite pool and spa
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    MarkTX's Avatar
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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    I think incandescent bulbs are being obsoleted in general. It was a good run, Thomas Edison.
    30,000 gal free-form IG w/ spa, PebbleSheen Blue Surf, Pentair cartridge filter, Pentair 3 HP Intelliflo, extra pump that is way over-sized for weeping moss rocks, Dolphin Oasis Z5, municipal water, all built Jan-Feb 2016. TF-100, SpeedStir, Liquidator 3/8", borates. My build thread http://www.troublefreepool.com/threa...-in-Cypress-TX

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    I am having this question right now, as my fixture is bad and tripping the GFCI. I diagnosed it down to the fixture from the housing. I was looking at the Pentair Intellibrite 5G 120V, but so many bad reviews with it failing in a year or less. Anyone have any opinions or longer term operating issues?
    Also is it worth changing to 12V vs the 120? Going to have it professionally installed due to warranty with Pentair, and also the old wiring doesn't seem to budge for me when I pulled on it.

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    Everyone seems to recommend at least 2 lights. Is that for any size pool or is there ever a situation where 1 LED light is sufficient? Thinking about a 14x28. TX!
    SunCountry
    South Phila PA area.

    Sundance Spa; Chelsea (468 gallons). Former 28ft AGP owner for 20 years.

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    Quote Originally Posted by Ocgasman View Post
    100% go with multicolor LED. If you can swing the extra cash, I would add another light to the shallow end too.
    What he said
    Matt
    2016 Pool Build: 12k IG Blue Granite Pebblesheen, Travertine Coping & Pavers, Pentair IntelliFlo, Intellichlor, Easytouch, Clean & Clear 320, Heliocol Solar - TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    jdomke1's Avatar
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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    Quote Originally Posted by king908 View Post
    I am having this question right now, as my fixture is bad and tripping the GFCI. I diagnosed it down to the fixture from the housing. I was looking at the Pentair Intellibrite 5G 120V, but so many bad reviews with it failing in a year or less. Anyone have any opinions or longer term operating issues?
    Also is it worth changing to 12V vs the 120? Going to have it professionally installed due to warranty with Pentair, and also the old wiring doesn't seem to budge for me when I pulled on it.
    My wire was hard to pull because they used some kind of sealant to plug the conduit inside the niche. Had to dig out with screwdriver and needle nose pliers but once it got loose it was easy to pull.


    28,000 in ground gunite pool and spa
    Pentair EasyTouch 8
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    System 3 Filter
    Max Therm Heater 400,000 btu

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    My pentair incandescent died after 12 years so I went with an LED 12v replacement pentair intellibrite. No issues for two years now. The light is much richer than the old light. I was unable to pull the cable out of the conduit, so did a waterproof seal on the connection underwater, hence the switch to 12v. Beware the controller is designed for an outdoor weatherproof box. Tough to install indoors if that's where your current switch is. I did it but couldn't adhere to code.

    In-Ground 16'x32' bromine pool., 16.5k GAL | Softub 300

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    Cybergy

    You need to understand that switching from a 120 volt system to a 12 volt system may increase the odds of a shock but should reduce the severity of a shock.

    That's because 12 volt systems are not protected by a GFCI even if one is installed on the curcuit. GFCI protection does not extend past the transformer. But because 12 volts has considerably less penatrating power than 120 volts any shock should be less severe.
    22k gallon IG pebblefina, Jandy 1.5 HP VS, Jandy CV Cartridge filter, Fafco solar panels, Polaris 360 supply side cleaner, waterfall

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    not likely- 12V is car battery voltage and ppl get shocked from that only in the movies. Besides, 12V side doesn't have 'neutral' / 'live' wires so unless someone opens the light and touches both wires nothing bad will ever happen IMO. The transformer needs to be grounded and GFI-ed on 115V side so in case it 'leaks' and lets 115V over to 12V side GFI would still fulfill its purpose.
    44k plaster pool, Pentair 011018 pump, DE6020 filter, LED lights, K2006 test kit

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    Max2k

    The transformer if its pool rated is designed to prevent higher voltages from penetrating through to the secondary side.

    But its dangerous to be complacent with electricity around pools. Water acts as a conductor and if you complete a circuit, even if the voltage does not pass through you it may pass over you and cause problems even at relatively low amperage. Additionally, how voltage flows is, because of the randomness of load paths, essentially unpredictable. Voltage gradients near pools or in pools, as can be seen by reading all the stray voltage threads on here cause problems even at much lower voltages..
    22k gallon IG pebblefina, Jandy 1.5 HP VS, Jandy CV Cartridge filter, Fafco solar panels, Polaris 360 supply side cleaner, waterfall

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    I think you're mixing those threads which are 115V related with 12V AC/DC. BTW, amperage doesn't matter - the same car battery provides 100A current during engine start but in order to be killed only 0.03 A is enough. What happens is when you get yourself connected to some source the voltage of the source gets divided by resistance of the circuit which includes your body and that results in the current flowing through the circuit according to good old Ohm's law: I = U / R. The higher the voltage the higher the current passing through the unfortunate body so at the end it's the voltage which 'kills'. The same car battery simply can't create dangerous enough current because of its low voltage.

    Having said that I'd still follow conventional setup when connecting that transformer: ground + GFI- just in case it doesn't work according to its rating . I don't mean here to ground one of the 12V wires- just whatever is required in setup instructions. I can't imagine 115V electrical pool equipment not having ground contact although I haven't seen that much. GFI is just cheap insurance.
    44k plaster pool, Pentair 011018 pump, DE6020 filter, LED lights, K2006 test kit

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    Re: LED or Incandescent???

    We swapped out our color wheel halogen bulb light with a LED and it is probably half as bright but is still nice enough since we don't use it that much.
    Inground 22k gallon gunite 15x31 main pool, 15x7 wading pool/sunning deck, hot tub/with overflow (9' octagon with limestone top) & slide NSWG, Aqua Blue Pebble Sheen
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