New the TFP method..need advice

Jun 14, 2016
22
Austin Texas
After reading as much as I could I decided to make the move to the TFP method and leave behind the vicious cycle of high CYA, algae, drain, spend money at leslies and repeat over and over. I have some mustard algae so I referred to the board and am addressing it with pool bleach.

FC: 2
cya: 75
p: 7.5

I have a in ground pool with pebble tec liner, intelliflow variable speed pump, cartridge filters, UV filter and solor heater.

Based on the mustard algae shock chart (http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/2177-Chlorine-CYA-Chart) and my CYA it said I need to get FC up to mid 40 level which would take 6 gallons of 10% bleach. Does that sound right or is that too much?

Thanks,
 
Welcome to the Forum! 6 gallons could be right depends on the size of your pool which brings me to your first homework assignment :D Can you please fill out your signature with details about your pool similar to what I have in mine this will help others guide you or at least double check your chemical add as you progress. You can find a link to your signature in the quick links dropdown just below the Rules button at the top of the page.
If 6 gallons is the correct amount you may want to consider dumping some water if that is at all practical to make your SLAM easier. SLAM is a process not a onetime level adjustment and if you truly have mustard algae you could be at it for several days and that could get expensive. Depending on your situation you may not be able to dump water but we like to keep things as inexpensive as we can. Also what test kit do you have there are a few recommended kits but for a SLAM the best is going to be the TF-100 with an XL option added on from tftestkits.net Others will be along shortly with even more homework but for now pool size will get things started.

Edit... of My Edit you were looking at the mustard chart so yes around mid 40 is correct
 
texag99, welcome! :wave: I would just clarify a couple things for you before you hit the bleach too hard. Most people actually find that they don't truly have MA as described in the Pool School - Mustard Algae page. I'm not discounting your opinion, just want to be cautious. Also remember that even for those who truly have MA, the initial treatment is still a regular SLAM FC level. You only increase to MA level for 24 hours AFTER passing the regular SLAM 3 criteria. I don't want you to waste bleach or expose the pool to more chlorine than needed. More is not always better. It's the consistency of the SLAM that's just as important.

Also, while we wait to see your signature updated, it doesn't look like you have a SWG correct? So you know now that your CYA is a little high. So you have the option of lowering that now with a partial water exchange if you chose to do so. As you can tell from today's heat, summer is not too far away, so you may end-up with a summer CYA of 60-70 anyways, but for the SLAM I just wanted to point that out. Either way you chose will work.

Nice to have you with us, and we hope your SLAM goes well. Once complete, remember to never let your FC go below that minimum FC number based on your CYA. Good luck!
 
OK...added sig. 13,500 gallons. I have the complete poolcare dpd test kit from leslies (free and total chlorine, ph, acid and base demand, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, cya). I am seeing some slight yellowing on the side walls mostly in the shaded area. Its very light and I can take my hand and brush it off. I recently did a half drain and then another 1/6ish drain but water is expensive here so I am trying to ration as much as possible.

Thanks for the help
 
you are correct you want the pump running other than that does not matter when you add under normal circumstances. While doing a SLAM Maintain is the most important step so you want to test frequently as practical and keep at the Shock Level until you have CC at or below .5 clear water and pass OCLT test.
 
Came home at lunch and checked with multiple tests and my FC is around 15. In order to find this I had to put 1/4 pool water in with 3/4 tap because my test only goes up to 10. The concerning thing I am seeing is that when I add the r003 to get TC is almost doubles. Does this mean there is still algae in the water and if so, what do I need to do now? The water looks great and the ph is around 7.8.

Update: The test seems inconsistent. When I part it with half pool/half tap water it still shows 10ish on the fc but when I quarter it I see it drop to about 4ish. If its around 4 with 1/4 pool water I would multiply by 4 to get 16ppm. If that's true, then I should see that reflected when I use 1/2 pool/1/2 tap water correct? I think I made a mistake leaving my solar heater on when starting the SLAM yesterday as it take a long time to cycle thru.

Feeling frustrated...thanks for the help
 

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Ok so I must have the tf-100 from tftestkits.net? The taylor complete pool test kit will not work here?

You need the FAS/DPD test kit. That lets you accurately test high levels of chlorine. I already had the Taylor kit when I found TFP, so I just supplemented it with the FAS/DPD kit. I'll buy the complete TF-100 when I need to replace my Taylor kit down the road. The tftestkits site has the individual test kits also.
 
How long should it take for the FC to come down. My test should be here tomorrow but with the other one I can clearly tell that it is well over 10ppm and when I half it with tap it is 15-17ish. I am in Austin texas and figured with 2 days of full sun and temps in the upper 90s that it would drop quickly or is my high cya allowing it to hang around?

Thanks
 
If you have no algae, then your high CYA will slow-down FC consumption. I lose about 2.5-3 ppm FC with a CYA of about 60-70. So you might figure about the same or slightly less (2 ppm) the way our days have been lately..... HOT! No worries, it will come down.
 

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