Dumb question...But how do I know my pool even works??

Jump to latest Follow Reply
C

crocop

0
May 5, 2016
161
Toronto
So I have a pool..in ground..and a new liner coming Monday.

Pool was built in 1995 (concrete), and I bought this house just 5-6 months ago.

I have a Hayward pump (not sure the model number), that works when I turn on the switch. I also have a Hayward sand filter.

If the pump and filter works, what else is there that can go wrong or how can I check that the jets work? For the jets to work, does the pump always need to be on?

Sorry, I am very new to this, so if its a stupid question.... please answer anyways :)
 
Pump turns on...check
New liner will hold water...check
Filter with sand will work...check
Jets (assuming return jets from pump) shooting out water...check
Good test kit - K-2006...check

Yup, pool works. Any other little things can be worked through. Honestly if it holds water and the pump runs, it will work. The returns will only shoot water when the pump is on.
 
Pool Tool said:
Pump turns on...check
New liner will hold water...check
Filter with sand will work...check
Jets (assuming return jets from pump) shooting out water...check
Good test kit - K-2006...check

Yup, pool works. Any other little things can be worked through. Honestly if it holds water and the pump runs, it will work. The returns will only shoot water when the pump is on.
Click to expand...

Phew, thanks. Just needed some reassurance.
 
No problem, we all need that from time to time. Use the search bar on top right to find out how to post pics then post a few pics of your pump and filter setup and any valves. We can help orient you with the operation of the equipment so that you can ask lots of questions Monday when they fill after the liner. Pools are pretty simple, but without experience they can be intimidating. And don't worry about dumb questions, I ask a few a day just to let the people around me feel smarter ;)
 
Pool Tool said:
No problem, we all need that from time to time. Use the search bar on top right to find out how to post pics then post a few pics of your pump and filter setup and any valves. We can help orient you with the operation of the equipment so that you can ask lots of questions Monday when they fill after the liner. Pools are pretty simple, but without experience they can be intimidating. And don't worry about dumb questions, I ask a few a day just to let the people around me feel smarter ;)
Click to expand...

Awesome, I will take detailed pics this weekend.

This forum is beyond the most helpful forum I've ever seen online...and I've been to a lot of forums. haha. Thanks guys.
 
If you have not already, I would get some bleach, start with 6 to 8 gallons that will give you your initial startup does and daily maintenance does for a couple of weeks, 2 containers of CYA aka stabilizer you will want to add around 5lb in a sock in front of a return to start that should give you a CYA level of 30 you may want it a bit higher but 30 is a good starting point till you see how much FC aka bleach you go through on a daily basis, a couple of gallons of muriatic acid I prefer the professional grade 31% it is around the same price as the weaker stuff only reason to buy the weaker stuff is if you are worried about fumes, I find if you stay up wind it is not a problem. Also good to have around in case it’s needed is a few lbs. of baking soda and a box or 2 of 20 mule team borax these are not always needed but nice to have around to save a trip to the store just in case.
 
atttech-2 said:
If you have not already, I would get some bleach, start with 6 to 8 gallons that will give you your initial startup does and daily maintenance does for a couple of weeks, 2 containers of CYA aka stabilizer you will want to add around 5lb in a sock in front of a return to start that should give you a CYA level of 30 you may want it a bit higher but 30 is a good starting point till you see how much FC aka bleach you go through on a daily basis, a couple of gallons of muriatic acid I prefer the professional grade 31% it is around the same price as the weaker stuff only reason to buy the weaker stuff is if you are worried about fumes, I find if you stay up wind it is not a problem. Also good to have around in case it’s needed is a few lbs. of baking soda and a box or 2 of 20 mule team borax these are not always needed but nice to have around to save a trip to the store just in case.
Click to expand...


Thanks...

Also, will my jets (or return)..its the same thing right? ....will the jets only work when the pump is running?
 
Also, will my jets (or return)..its the same thing right? ....will the jets only work when the pump is running? Correct. They are synonymous and the pump is the only thing that will move any water. Without the pump running there is no water circulating, i.e. no water out of the jets or getting sucked into the skimmer.
 
Have you had a chance to read through Pool School if not start with the ABC's. Under the pool equipment tab you will learn the most common terms for things like the jets aka returns. In the How to tab there is some info on determining pump run time you will probably not need to run the pump as much as you might think. Don't run the pump till the pool is completely full depending on how it is plumbed it might be able to move water as soon as the drain has water over it but even if that is the case it will be working way harder than it should having to lift the water out of the pool. As soon as the skimmer is full then you can start it up.
 
Pool Tool said:
No problem, we all need that from time to time. Use the search bar on top right to find out how to post pics then post a few pics of your pump and filter setup and any valves. We can help orient you with the operation of the equipment so that you can ask lots of questions Monday when they fill after the liner. Pools are pretty simple, but without experience they can be intimidating. And don't worry about dumb questions, I ask a few a day just to let the people around me feel smarter ;)
Click to expand...

Here is my set up. Ignore the dirty cigarettes on the old heater (previous owners)..lol.

Also, I have a new gas heater and SWG that is installed yet.

Any tips??

IMG_1917.jpg

IMG_1918.jpg

IMG_1916.jpg
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
If it were me (somebody else might have a better suggestion shortly), I would take the sand filter apart and inspect and deep clean it now. Then as soon as the water was filled to the skimmer, I would put the pump on recirculate just to see if it primed and moved water. Then I would try filter mode, noting the change in PSI from recirc to filter. Then I would try a backwash/rinse cycle. Then a waste cycle.

Here is a tip. Always move the handle on the multiport in the same direction (I choose clockwise). It will prolong the spider gasket's life.
 
Last edited:
Mr Bruce said:
If it were me (somebody else might have a better suggestion shortly), I would take the sand filter apart and inspect and deep clean it now. Then as soon as the water was filled to the skimmer, I would put the pump on recirculate just to see if it primed and moved water. Then I would try filter mode, noting the change in PSI from recirc to filter. Then I would try a backwash/rinse cycle.

Here is a tip. Always move the handle on the multiport in the same direction (I choose clockwise). It will prolong the spider gasket's life.
Click to expand...

Thanks. How would I go about taking it apart and cleaning it? What exactly am I cleaning? The filter itself? Just with a hose?
 
I don't know anything about sand filters take a look at THIS thread might be a good starting point. I missed the SWG in your signature since it is not yet installed you are going to keep some bleach on hand till it is up and running but after that as long as it is sized correctly you should be good to go. Also you are likely going to want twice as much stabilizer as I recommended earlier with the SWG, take a look at the chlorine/CYA chart in pool school.
 
1 Yes.

2. It depends. You may want to run the heater from say 9am to 12n to bump up the temps for swimming, you may want to run it 24/7 under a cover to have a glorified hot tub, it's your preference.
 
The heater has a pressure switch that will allow it to only run if the pump is running. This is to protect the heater from overheating if the water is passing through it. The pressure switch is a safety feature and not the primary means to control the unit. Generally speaking, the heater's power is supplied from a timer and is only powered when the pump is on, e.g. it can only run if the pump is running.

Your heater is currently disconnected from the plumbing. I just replaced that exact same unit - I would suggest it is likely not worth salvaging, but that is totally your call. You wont be able to test it until it is plumbed and water is moving through it (you could bypass the pressure safety switch to see if the unit tries to light, but without a thorough understanding I would not try that yet).

Running your heater is a matter of preference; some folks let it run 24 hours and the heater's thermostat cycles the unit. Me, like most users, warm the pool quickly for weekend or event swimming. As important as the heater is a cheap solar cover to retain heat at night when evaporation and cooler temps suck heat out of the water.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply