Are you storing your reagents inside and out of direct sunlight? Heat and the sun can prematurely degrade the reagents.
Is this 'dirt' algae?
- Thread starter ummhasan
- Start date
My pH regeant is brand new but from an HTH refill pack of ph and oto regeant only.
My swg is off when I do the OCLT test. This morning I wasn't able to get out b4 sunlight but it was only about 3 hrs after sunrise. My FC was 5 which is a 1.5 drop in FC.
PH this morning was nearly clear so it changed a bit, but again it looked nearly clear. I turned on the filter and added another 2 cups of acid. I'll go brush and test again.
I store my regeant in the garage in a cabinet.
My swg is off when I do the OCLT test. This morning I wasn't able to get out b4 sunlight but it was only about 3 hrs after sunrise. My FC was 5 which is a 1.5 drop in FC.
PH this morning was nearly clear so it changed a bit, but again it looked nearly clear. I turned on the filter and added another 2 cups of acid. I'll go brush and test again.
I store my regeant in the garage in a cabinet.
Something is off with your Ph test. I am no expert, but I have never seen PH results like that look that shade, and now you say it is nearly clear?
Are you using the HTH reagent in the Taylor comparator block? That won't work. That needs the R-0014 reagent for the PH test.
Yeah I just realized from the last comment you were using the same reagent for both tests. IMO, the Hth test looks like the pH might be 7.6
Since that is the reagent you have, just do your pH testing with it
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Since that is the reagent you have, just do your pH testing with it
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I double checked my regent and it's actually from AquaChem not HTH and the test comparison block came with the AquaChem kit originally. Here is what I'm seeing now:
It is difficult to say, but the color still seems off. Aqua Chem is not a recommended test for PH. The Taylor PH test is recommended. The Taylor kit uses R-0014 and the other "block" that was in your earlier photos.
Also, the recommended FC test is the FAS-DPD test... the one that uses a powder. It is difficult for me to interpret the shade of yellow via a photo.
Also, the recommended FC test is the FAS-DPD test... the one that uses a powder. It is difficult for me to interpret the shade of yellow via a photo.
I know the r-0014 is recommended, I was just out and found the refill kit with a small test kit from AquaChem on sale so decided to get it. I'll order some for the Taylor kit as soon as I can. In the meantime, what do you all suggest I do with the water? Should I keep my FC where it is in the 5 to 6 range or should I lower it to 3 or 4? All FC and CC results I've posted were done using the FAS DPD test using 10ml of water, a scoop of powder, and R0871 until I see clear water.
Thanks to everyone! I really appreciate it!
Thanks to everyone! I really appreciate it!
The first order of business should be ordering reagent for the PH test. PH is very important because you don't want to damage your equipment if your PH is out of range.
I'm sorry, but this thread is a little confusing... you passed the OCLT, right?
If you did pass the OCLT, you should get your CYA up to 70. I believe your CYA is at 40 now, right? All CYA values are rounded up to the nearest ten, so a CYA between 30 and 40 is treated as 40. If your CYA is 40, you should aim for a FC of 4 if you will be using your SWG. Your CYA is too low for the SWG part of the FC recommended FC levels, so I'm suggesting the lowest target level listed on the SWG chart. Add CYA to get to 70 (use pool math and split the dose in 2 so and test in between you don't overshoot your CYA). Once your CYA is 70, your target FC should be 5.
Recommended levels
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Recommended FC level
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
I'm sorry, but this thread is a little confusing... you passed the OCLT, right?
If you did pass the OCLT, you should get your CYA up to 70. I believe your CYA is at 40 now, right? All CYA values are rounded up to the nearest ten, so a CYA between 30 and 40 is treated as 40. If your CYA is 40, you should aim for a FC of 4 if you will be using your SWG. Your CYA is too low for the SWG part of the FC recommended FC levels, so I'm suggesting the lowest target level listed on the SWG chart. Add CYA to get to 70 (use pool math and split the dose in 2 so and test in between you don't overshoot your CYA). Once your CYA is 70, your target FC should be 5.
Recommended levels
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Recommended FC level
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Let's start with a fresh set of numbers and update on where things are. How does the water look? SLAM completed? Next step?
Great, thanks. Yes, I did pass the OCLT test. Sorry for it being confusing. I will add some stabilizer to bring up the CYA today.
I decided to test the pH with the extra refill bottle I had and I got much better results. Maybe the other regent is bad. With this result, I think I'm pretty on target. What do you think?
I decided to test the pH with the extra refill bottle I had and I got much better results. Maybe the other regent is bad. With this result, I think I'm pretty on target. What do you think?
Water is crystal clear. SLAM was completed. OCLT passed.
Today's Fresh set of Number:
FC = 3 (FAS DPD)
FC = 6 (OTO liquid)
BR = 11 (OTO liquid)
CC = did not test - need new regent, but was .5 this morning
PH = 7.6
TA = 60
CYA = 30 (probably because I added water the other day)
Today's Fresh set of Number:
FC = 3 (FAS DPD)
FC = 6 (OTO liquid)
BR = 11 (OTO liquid)
CC = did not test - need new regent, but was .5 this morning
PH = 7.6
TA = 60
CYA = 30 (probably because I added water the other day)
I just ordered this kit: Taylor Troubleshooter DPD Pool and Spa Water Test Kit - K-1004-6, but I probably won't get it until next week.
Something isn't right.
1. You don't have bromine, so not sure how you got this result.
2. The FC results should be identical. Either your testing is off, or the OTO reagent is bad if it is Taylor and unreliable if it isn't. Are you using the 10 ml sample for the FAS-DPD test, one heaping scoop of powder, count the R-0871 drops until clear, divide the number of drops by 2 (10 drops divided by 2= FC of 5). Check out the detailed instructions for the FAS-DPD test here: Pool School - FAS-DPD Chlorine Test
Not sure why you ordered the kit you ordered, but refills can be found here: TFTestkits.net
I'm not sure which base kit you are using, but not a bad idea to replace with a fresh kit if some of your reagents are bad. The TF-100 from tftestkits will last a few seasons. You should store all testing supplies inside with climate control and not in direct sunlight.
There are different PH tests and you need to make sure you have the right reagent.
The PH reagent for the TF-100 is here: TFTestkits.net
The PH reagent for the Taylor K-2006 is here: TFTestkits.net
I do have a FAS/DBP and OTO test, but the kit has a new ph, new TA, new test tube, and comparison test block in it. That way I can be sure that i'm using new regent along with the correct block/tubes, that haven't possibly been contaminated some how - maybe by time, by residue, or whatever.
It is NOT taylor OTO and it being a good idea to get a new Taylor kit is exactly why I ordered the one I did. So I know it's Taylor regents, so I know I have the right regent for the right block, and because that is the only new kit I can afford.
BR I got just from the block, it shows BR on the right and CL on the left. I was told that pH depends on TA and BR so I gave both readings.
Yes, I am using 10ml of water, one heaping spoonful (probably too much since I don't have the tiny scopper that comes with the test), and then I am dropping in one drop at a time of the r-0871 while swirling the test tube until it becomes clear, then adding another drop to be sure. I realize something isn't right and that is why I'm asking for help and why I ordered the only kit I can afford that has a new block and Taylor regents. The test kit was only $14.95 on Amazon.
BR I got just from the block, it shows BR on the right and CL on the left. I was told that pH depends on TA and BR so I gave both readings.
Yes, I am using 10ml of water, one heaping spoonful (probably too much since I don't have the tiny scopper that comes with the test), and then I am dropping in one drop at a time of the r-0871 while swirling the test tube until it becomes clear, then adding another drop to be sure. I realize something isn't right and that is why I'm asking for help and why I ordered the only kit I can afford that has a new block and Taylor regents. The test kit was only $14.95 on Amazon.
I would throw away the non-taylor OTO test. It isn't reliable and just adds to the confusion.
You don't have a bromine pool, so you don't need the BR result, which testing brand and reagent # and comparison block gave you the BR result?
The PH and TA tests are independent of each other. It is important to know your TA if your PH is rising or erratic.
What brand/reagent # are you using to test TA and CYA?
You don't have a bromine pool, so you don't need the BR result, which testing brand and reagent # and comparison block gave you the BR result?
The PH and TA tests are independent of each other. It is important to know your TA if your PH is rising or erratic.
What brand/reagent # are you using to test TA and CYA?
Right now I am using an HTH TA regent that I've had for 3 years stored in my garage. My CYA is from Taylor - but the small cylinder that has the black dot has some sticky brown residue on one of the sides. The CYA liquid from Taylor is also about 3 years old because we moved to a temporary house while we found a new house after selling our old house where the pool was. Then we had to get cementing done before putting up the pool, so this is the first year we have reset up the pool since having the regent 3 years ago.
So this year, we have a Kmart closing in our area and all pool things were 30% off so I picked up an Aqua chem kit with only OTO and PH and a block, plus an extra refill pack of OTO and PH. Now, because I have 6 kids and not a lot of money to get an expensive Taylor kit, I found the smaller one that comes with a new block, PH, TA, OTO, and I think CH in it with a new cylinder. Here is the link to the kit I purchased online yesterday: Amazon.com : Taylor Troubleshooter DPD Pool and Spa Water Test Kit - K-1004-6 : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Patio, Lawn Garden
So this year, we have a Kmart closing in our area and all pool things were 30% off so I picked up an Aqua chem kit with only OTO and PH and a block, plus an extra refill pack of OTO and PH. Now, because I have 6 kids and not a lot of money to get an expensive Taylor kit, I found the smaller one that comes with a new block, PH, TA, OTO, and I think CH in it with a new cylinder. Here is the link to the kit I purchased online yesterday: Amazon.com : Taylor Troubleshooter DPD Pool and Spa Water Test Kit - K-1004-6 : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Patio, Lawn Garden