First time owner making sure I'm on the right track.

[cdchris1]

Hi. We just installed our new pool and this is the first time owing one. Our PB had been maintaining our water up until this past week. They gave us test strips and a brief overview of the chemicals. Up until this weekend, we had only been in briefly once or twice, so our auto cover has been closed most of the time. I received my test kit the other day and got the results below.

PH: 7.8
FC: 3.5
CC: 0.5
TC: 4
CH: 650
TA: 310
CYA: <20

So, based on what I have read here, I added 1/2 gal Muratic Acid to bring my PH down a little, and I am in the process of adding CYA to get that up to around 70. After swimming all day yesterday, my FC fell to 0.5 today, which I am assuming is from the low CYA and bring exposed to the sun all day. I bumped my SWG up to 80% (it was at 30%). I plan on working to get the CYA up and the FC stabilized, first. Then working on bring my TA down using the aeration method. Then using some flocculant to bring down the CH (our water is very hard, so I am not sure draining and adding fresh would help much). I just wanted to make sure I am going about this right or if anyone else has any suggestions.

Thanks.

 

[needsajet]

You've learned TFPC really well.

It's possible you will be managing at high CH. I haven't read here that flocculants will work to lower CH, but I'll sit back and listen to the experts on that one. If you get a chance, test your fill water, and that will tell us if you can lower CH with dilution. Also do pH and TA on your fill water. The pool builder's chemistry approach is a big part of this, so knowing your fill water will be helpful. Did the PB advise you to maintain a particular set of numbers beyond the handoff?

Your intent to reduce your CSI with lower pH and TA (and perhaps CH dilution), is the same at what I'd do. Your CSI is very high from the high TA. Once you have your fill water test, let's re-visit the numbers. Glad to hear you're reducing TA. The MA additions will balance the water when the pH is lower.

I agree maintaining FC at your target is the top priority.

You got this!

 

[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP and congrats on the new pool!

Very nice job reading up and learning.

Definitely keep your CSI slightly negative, -0.3 to 0, to avoid scale.
More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling

When FC drops like that it is best to dose up FC with bleach because it will raise FC quickly. The SWG will raise it too slowly leaving the pool at risk of algae and bacteria too long with FC below minimum, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

I don't know about using floc for that. I have never owned a bottle of floc. If I did I would probably mail it to needsajet.

 

[gwegan]

That all sounds reasonable. However, I would not worry about the Ch right now. Just get the rest stable. When its stable then you can decide what to do about CH.

I've run my pool at 650 Ch and others run theirs at 850. Just keep the csi slightly negative and you should be ok.

Flock won't bring down the Ch by any appreciable amount. The calcium is disolved

 

[needsajet]

pooldv, surely you know a local poo store addict you could re-gift that floc to? You need more friends

Totally agree with pooldv and Gwegan. The CSI is +1.0 right now, so focus on FC, TA and pH first. (which I think you're doing - well done!)

 

[cdchris1]

Thanks for the confirmation that I am on the right track. Our PB just left us the test strips and showed us what colors to keep it in. I learned here there is a little more to it. I will be sure to test my fill water and post the numbers for reference. I cranked up the SWG, and set my pump to run continuous, but will add some bleach as well. Definitely don't want to have to deal with alge.
I swore I read a post here that said flocculant could help with CH, but I cannot find it now. As you all mentioned, that is the last thing I planned on working on anyways. Thanks again, and I will post the fill numbers when I get them.

 

[MarianParoo]

Excellent first post! Good job!

 

[cdchris1]

I checked my FC before I added bleach this morning and it was up to 5, so I skipped the bleach and turned my SWG down a little. We swam this evening and it stayed around 5 when we finished. I am waiting a couple of days to check my CYA again (my sock still has a little in it). Is it better to keep my cover open for a while before I test, or can I test right away after opening?

Also, I tested my fill water, it is not great.
CH: 850
TA: 460

 

[needsajet]

You can massage the sock to get rid of the last of the CYA, actually massage it any time. Rinse your hands after, some people get irritation, but it's rare.

No reason not to test right away. Sample should come from 12" to 18" down into the water. You've got this going really well!

 

[cdchris1]

Thanks needsajet. You should have seen my wife's face when said I was going out to massage my sock.

 

[needsajet]

I am seriously laughing out loud!!!! "Whatever works for you..., dear"

 

[cooljul]

Chris any chance we could get a pic of your pool? I am looking at that exact model for my next pool... upgrading from an intex. Thanks so much!

 

[jfmorris]

Something I've not noticed in this thread is any mention of salt levels. With a SWG, you should really consider getting a salt test. I do that as part of my weekly testing, as over time, the salt level will go down, and you need to maintain an optimal level for your SWG. Salt will be lost any time you lose and replace water for any reason other than evaporation. Sources of loss for me are backwashing, or even the kids splashing water out of the pool.

I know some SWG's have indicators for when to add salt, so maybe the test kit is not necessary, but I like to plug that number into the TPC calculator web page along with all my other numbers....