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Thread: SWG current limiter replacment

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    SWG current limiter replacment

    I've researched this and it looks like a lot of people with the same problem as me have replaced the current limiter on their SWG board.

    A lot have used this part from Digikey with success, however an older thread on this website:

    570-1062-ND

    SL32 2R025 Ametherm | Circuit Protection | DigiKey


    The one currently on my board has the numbers as32 2r025. It appears to be this one:

    AS32 2R025 Ametherm | Circuit Protection | DigiKey

    One is 2 OHM 20% and the other is 2 OHM 25%. I'm guessing I should use the 2nd one since the numbers match to the one currently on my board?

    Any ideas if either would work...

    Thx
    17,200 in ground Vinyl pool......
    Salt Water
    Sand Filter

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Either will work.

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Thx. I ordered both. Which one should I use.


    17,200 in ground Vinyl pool......
    Salt Water
    Sand Filter

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Use the as32 if you can get it in the board. However, the sl32 has thinner legs and is easier to get in the board.

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    So to follow up, my board did have the as32 on it, which yes had the fatter legs, but it fit right in no problem. Just need to work a little on my soldering skills. Reinstalled the board and it fired right up and worked great .
    It also appears that you can test for a bad current limiter with it still on the board. Just hit it with the ohms meter and see if the circuit it open or not...

    Thx



    17,200 in ground Vinyl pool......
    Salt Water
    Sand Filter

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    So low resistance indicates a bad varistor? And high resistance is a good one.

    Just asking because mine is giving me a reading of ~.1 Ohms. And that is testing with the varistor on the board. Oh its a Goldline/Aquarite/Hayward controller with a SL32-2R025 varistor. It works for a while and then I get a PCB error on the display.
    20K IG gunite with attached spa, dark plaster and lava rock waterfall, very 90's. Pool equip refit in 2005 with all Sta-Rite cartridge filter, pump, and heater; Polaris sweep; Goldline Controller(Hayward) with T-Cell-15 SWG

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    I just replaced mine last week and it's is semi working. However I have one issue the chlorine does not stop generation until I move the switch to the off position So weekly I need to manually turn on the auto switch to generate leaving the dial at 1 it generates at 10% I probabally messed up when I did the repair buy saved 600 hundred bucks on pcb replacement Anyone have this issue?
    Readings are:
    3100
    83
    31.1
    5p
    alo
    r 1.40
    20x40 28K Gallon IG Foxx pool, Vinyl DE filter, variable pump, 400K heater, Aqurite SWG (2012 Installed) all Hayward branded Built 2001. City Well water Aquanaut 400 suction cleaner. 12 Mil solar cover, TAYLOR K-2006 Test Kit Artesian Piper Glen Spa

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Quote Originally Posted by jackgit View Post
    ... the chlorine does not stop generation until I move the switch to the off position...
    To my knowledge that's how it's supposed to work. If yours was stopping then that might be a symptom of the varistor overheating. The SWG will generate chlorine continuously at the rate that you select from the knob. I find a rate that works best with the conditions and I leave it there. I'll have to turn it up if there are more swimmers than normal or higher temperatures.
    20K IG gunite with attached spa, dark plaster and lava rock waterfall, very 90's. Pool equip refit in 2005 with all Sta-Rite cartridge filter, pump, and heater; Polaris sweep; Goldline Controller(Hayward) with T-Cell-15 SWG

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Thanks for posting quickly Usually I keep the switch to auto and dial at 40 percent running 8 hours a day. That keeps the chlorine reading at 8 After the board fix it zoomed to 12 so I turned dial to 1 and when I do I usually hear a click and the generating light goes off Make sense ??
    20x40 28K Gallon IG Foxx pool, Vinyl DE filter, variable pump, 400K heater, Aqurite SWG (2012 Installed) all Hayward branded Built 2001. City Well water Aquanaut 400 suction cleaner. 12 Mil solar cover, TAYLOR K-2006 Test Kit Artesian Piper Glen Spa

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Hmm.. do you see a corresponding change in the Cell current and voltage? I have in my notes from ages ago that the cell voltage should be 22-25v when generating and 30-35 v when not and Cell amperage 4.0-7.8 when generating and 0 when not. I just checked my controller and yes I hear a relay click at about 10-20% and the cell voltage and amperage changes as expected. I wonder if its your relay.
    20K IG gunite with attached spa, dark plaster and lava rock waterfall, very 90's. Pool equip refit in 2005 with all Sta-Rite cartridge filter, pump, and heater; Polaris sweep; Goldline Controller(Hayward) with T-Cell-15 SWG

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    bobodaclown's Avatar
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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    I thought those units produce 100%, but cycle their run time. 10% is 10% on 90% off.
    From the troubleshooting manual:
    The ‘Desired Output %’ dial on the main panel sets the level of salt cell operation as a percent of the total operating time of the entire system. A simple example is that if the
    pump/filter is programmed to operate a total of 8 hours in a given day and the ‘Desired
    output %’ is set to 50% the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) approximately
    half the time, or 4 hours. 50% is the factory default.

    Link to manual: http://www.inyopools.com/manuals/178...ting-guide.pdf
    17K Kidney Shaped Pool Concrete (Diamond Bright) Pool, 3/4 hp 2 speed 115V Sta-rite Duraglas PEA5D-180L/P2R5D-181L (Impeller C105-92PS Diffuser C1-216P), 1.5 piping, Pentair CC100 Filter , Heat Siphon 100K BTU Heat Pump Pool Heater, Flow meter Blue White Flowmeter Model No. F-30150P, Hayward Astrolight SP0581N, SWCG CalimarTitanium Edition TE45 , Dolphin Nautilus Plus with CleverClean, Lakeland Florida

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    The generating light stays on while the switch is in auto. However, it's not generating the whole time. r 1.4 has a two hour cycle time. 5 % is the lowest percentage (5p in diagnostic readings). At 5p, it will generate for 6 minutes and be off for 114 minutes. The "Generating" light will be on the whole time.

    Go to percentage in diagnostics and rotate the percentage dial to see if the percentage in the display matches the percentage on the printed dial.

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Yes the % diags matches when I rotate the dial Prior to board fix when I moved the dial to 1 I would hear a click and the gen light would turn off
    20x40 28K Gallon IG Foxx pool, Vinyl DE filter, variable pump, 400K heater, Aqurite SWG (2012 Installed) all Hayward branded Built 2001. City Well water Aquanaut 400 suction cleaner. 12 Mil solar cover, TAYLOR K-2006 Test Kit Artesian Piper Glen Spa

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    It's probably working correctly.

    You have a two hour cycle time. For example, if the percentage is 50%, it generates for an hour then it's off for an hour. Try checking after the generating period is supposed to be finished to see if the diagnostics show 0 amps and -0 for instant salinity.

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    For future reference, when replacing the varisistor I have found a easy way. I just cut the legs off the old one leaving them sticking out of the board, wrap them around the legs of the new one, leaving it at a 90% angle to the old one. Solder in place them trim any excess off the legs. It leaves the resistor standing away from the board for better cooling, and it's much quicker and easier than soldering to the board. Just be sure to place it so that it doesn't contact the case or the display board.
    chiefwej
    Tucson, AZ
    16x36 rectangular (19k) Pebble Tec play pool/spa, Pentair Intelliflo VS 011018, Super II 2hp (spa), Aqua Rite T-15 SWG, Pro Grid 60 DE, Hayward H400 & Heliocol Solar heating, A&A infloor system, fill water w/high CH and TA, 50 ppm borates,TF-100 test kit

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    From what I see.. my board doesn't have the big heat sinks on the back of the PCB so I should be able to desolder fairly easily. It looks like the newer PCB's have the heat sinks that are hard to desolder. those would be best to clip the old Varistor and leave the old leads longer to solder the newer varistor onto.
    20K IG gunite with attached spa, dark plaster and lava rock waterfall, very 90's. Pool equip refit in 2005 with all Sta-Rite cartridge filter, pump, and heater; Polaris sweep; Goldline Controller(Hayward) with T-Cell-15 SWG

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Some poeple are less proficient at soldering to a PC board than others. I've found that my hands aren't quite as steady as they once were for fine work, so I took an easy way out.
    chiefwej
    Tucson, AZ
    16x36 rectangular (19k) Pebble Tec play pool/spa, Pentair Intelliflo VS 011018, Super II 2hp (spa), Aqua Rite T-15 SWG, Pro Grid 60 DE, Hayward H400 & Heliocol Solar heating, A&A infloor system, fill water w/high CH and TA, 50 ppm borates,TF-100 test kit

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    Point taken... not everyone is good at soldering

    I was looking at it from the standpoint of people having problems desoldering the varistor because the newer boards have a heat sink on them that conducts the heat away as the iron heats it. I never thought it might also be easier to solder onto the existing leads. But I guess so if you "tin" both leads they should stick pretty easily.
    20K IG gunite with attached spa, dark plaster and lava rock waterfall, very 90's. Pool equip refit in 2005 with all Sta-Rite cartridge filter, pump, and heater; Polaris sweep; Goldline Controller(Hayward) with T-Cell-15 SWG

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    Re: SWG current limiter replacment

    I thought I would report my results.

    My SWG controller would run for about 2 hours and then all the lights would come on and I would get a PCB error on the LCD. It seemed like a failing component was over heating. While waiting for my Digikey delivery to arrive, I tried the binder clip trick on the Current limiter and it seemed to run for a little longer before failing. So I replaced the current limiter a few days ago and it seems to have fixed it. I ran the system a few extra hours the first day and it looks like it didn't shut off. I tested it again today. At this point I will say its fixed. woo hoo the new cell is generating!

    I'm curious if there is any connection between this and the new cell we just installed. Like the new cell pulled more power that the older failing one. I've ready a few times that these just go out to protect the system from surges. So I ordered two and taped the extra one inside of the controller with my spare fuse for the next time.

    Interestingly I tested the old current limiter after I removed it. It measured 4 Ohms after if cooled off from being desoldered. So I presume it was indeed starting to fail.
    20K IG gunite with attached spa, dark plaster and lava rock waterfall, very 90's. Pool equip refit in 2005 with all Sta-Rite cartridge filter, pump, and heater; Polaris sweep; Goldline Controller(Hayward) with T-Cell-15 SWG

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