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Thread: so what about algaecides

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    so what about algaecides

    In the methods of TFP and BBB what abut algaecides?
    I have a lot of trees around and cean the pool constantly. (BTW its an above ground 18x33)
    Anyway, my filter (cartridge) is one in which is 2speed and I basically run on low 24/7. That is one method that takes care of most algae problems I may ever have. The issue I was and sometimes "may" get are spots on the bottom in certain places that appear greenish yellow. What I was doing was using a 3-in-1 algaecide at about 2 to 3 oz per week and along with running my low speed 24/7 its only rare I get it. And usually for whatever the reason it happens more in late summer (august) hot days and cooler nights and over all shorter days. In any case should I be adding this maintenance couple/few oz per week or not bother unless I begin to see it. I don't know if its considered black or mustard or for that matter even green so that's why I use the combo.

    On another note Im not really a fan of 1 return jet and 1 skimmer on an 18x33 pool. I know its not enormous at al but still that's a nice size pool and always felt 2 returns (even if still one skimmer) would have at least been what the pool came with. At time of istall they said its the 20x40 that comes that way and not the 18/33. At 4.4 amps Im not too concerned with running 24/7 and is what was designed to do. Had I not had all the nature around my yard I can probably get away with less hours and actually in mid summer I do get down to 16hrs with an 8hr break (again on low speed) and the pool maintains well. But the beginning month and the end of season month its 24/7.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
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    Re: so what about algaecides

    Most TFP'ers do not use algaecide. I haven't used any since I joined and "saw the light" in 2011. I am also surrounded by those pesky trees. TFP advocates keeping a proper chlorine/CYA level.
    17,500 gal. ABG Doughboy Pool
    1/2 HP Pump/150 sq.ft. Cartridge Filter
    TF100 Test Kit And Speedstir

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    mas985's Avatar
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    Re: so what about algaecides

    If you are getting algae, your FC levels are too low. Using an algaecide simply is masking the real issue.

    What are your nominal CYA and FC levels?
    Mark
    Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
    18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: so what about algaecides

    For the most part, you won't see a lot of support for algaecide use here at TFP. Only in some rare cases perhaps or for winterization. In addition, many algaecides add unwanted products like metals (copper) to the water, so that's not good at all. 99.9% of water chemistry issues can be resolved with proper testing and the correct ratio of FC/CYA (chlorine/stabilizer). Additional filtration is not the answer either. Pump times are primarily needed to move surface debris to your skimmer and to mix chemicals. The rest is test readings.

    SO if you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 and can post those results, please do. If you don't have one, please see the TF-100 link below and make that your #1 priority. You'll thank us later. Have a nice day.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
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    Re: so what about algaecides

    That is one method that takes care of most algae problems I may ever have.
    That is a very common misconception. Filters cannot get live algae out of your pool.

    You must first kill the algae with chlorine and then it can be filtered out.

    +1 to what everyone else said. Algaecides will not harm your pool but damage your wallet unnecessarily.

    Learn how to get you FC in tune with your CYA and your pool will sparkle. We promise!
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: so what about algaecides

    Copper algaecids are bad.
    Pool installed 8/2015. 30' round Radiant pool. 21,000 gallons. 200# sand. Hayward Vari flow XL valve. 1.5hp Hayward Power-Flo Matrix running 10 hours/day in two periods. TF100 with speed stir. Sun all day, south side of house
    Order test kit TF-100 w/ Speed Stir and then Poolmath Calculator --- RECOMMENDED LEVELS --- POOL SCHOOL --- Algae? --- Chlorine/CYA CHART.

  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Re: so what about algaecides

    Thanks all thus far for the replies.
    Fwiw and as my post indicates I do not have an issue at this time. I was merely referencing some past experiences and also cannot recall what any levels of anything was at those times. It was much more a general question for sake of knowledge should the situation arise again.

    fwiw I have a Taylor test kit and it does chorine, ta, cya, hadness, ph, etc....

    Actually because of this site and recent problems (nothing to do with algae) I bought a test kit and is now what I use. Currently everything is near perfect in all my categories....knock on wood and hope I can keep it that way..lol

    as for running my filter 24/7 on low speed..... I am to understand its more about keeping water moving and mixing which is probably why it seemed to help when I did occasionally get that small algae staining problem I mentioned. Id also have to assume (besides being more efficient electrically) that doing this keeps a better maintained pool overall anyway. As said...this was (at the time) designed with the intent of running low speed 24/7 when I bought the pool some 7/8 years ago. Right or wrong I don't know for certain but makes sense to me.

    My 2 big issues this year were high TA and also high CYA and cloudy water.

    Cart filter and no backwashing combined with minimum pool usage meant very little water change and helped lead to high CYA. Then an addition of a solar cover and little usage (no aeration nor water loss and replaced) I believe lead to PH dropping and so my often addition of PH+ probably also added to what ended up a high TA.

    anyway, I drained half my pool and am basically starting from scratch. And through the last couple days this is my pool currently.....

    Ph 7.5
    TA 80 to 90
    FC 2-4 color
    TC 2-4 color
    cya 50 to 60
    Hardness 240

    Those are all my current pool reading and all is crystal clear water. I do have only a couple pucks in my chlorinator but soon as those are gone I now have liquid chlorine which I will be using. I added borax to get my ph up to the 7.5 from about 6.8 and also used baking soda to raise my TA from 70 to about 85ish. Muriatic acid and 40% draining helped rid the very high TA I had and also the draining got my CYA down which was well over 100. (Idont even know for sure how high it was).

    Anyway I believe I am very good right now chemistry wise. But these methods are still new to me and so it will be a learning process as I move along. Unfortunately I vacume and skim my pool almost daily or at least every other day due to the darn trees around and especially when windy and/or stormy. What a pain that part has always been...lol what can ya do? it is what it is.

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: so what about algaecides

    Quote Originally Posted by aodino View Post
    Thanks all thus far for the replies.
    Fwiw and as my post indicates I do not have an issue at this time. I was merely referencing some past experiences and also cannot recall what any levels of anything was at those times. It was much more a general question for sake of knowledge should the situation arise again.

    fwiw I have a Taylor test kit and it does chorine, ta, cya, hadness, ph, etc....

    Actually because of this site and recent problems (nothing to do with algae) I bought a test kit and is now what I use. Currently everything is near perfect in all my categories....knock on wood and hope I can keep it that way..lol

    as for running my filter 24/7 on low speed..... I am to understand its more about keeping water moving and mixing which is probably why it seemed to help when I did occasionally get that small algae staining problem I mentioned. Id also have to assume (besides being more efficient electrically) that doing this keeps a better maintained pool overall anyway. As said...this was (at the time) designed with the intent of running low speed 24/7 when I bought the pool some 7/8 years ago. Right or wrong I don't know for certain but makes sense to me.

    My 2 big issues this year were high TA and also high CYA and cloudy water.

    Cart filter and no backwashing combined with minimum pool usage meant very little water change and helped lead to high CYA. Then an addition of a solar cover and little usage (no aeration nor water loss and replaced) I believe lead to PH dropping and so my often addition of PH+ probably also added to what ended up a high TA.

    anyway, I drained half my pool and am basically starting from scratch. And through the last couple days this is my pool currently.....

    Ph 7.5
    TA 80 to 90
    FC 2-4 color
    TC 2-4 color
    cya 50 to 60
    Hardness 240

    Those are all my current pool reading and all is crystal clear water. I do have only a couple pucks in my chlorinator but soon as those are gone I now have liquid chlorine which I will be using. I added borax to get my ph up to the 7.5 from about 6.8 and also used baking soda to raise my TA from 70 to about 85ish. Muriatic acid and 40% draining helped rid the very high TA I had and also the draining got my CYA down which was well over 100. (Idont even know for sure how high it was).

    Anyway I believe I am very good right now chemistry wise. But these methods are still new to me and so it will be a learning process as I move along. Unfortunately I vacume and skim my pool almost daily or at least every other day due to the darn trees around and especially when windy and/or stormy. What a pain that part has always been...lol what can ya do? it is what it is.
    Actually, right now your chlorine is way too low. With CYA = 60 your FC should never be below 5 and we recommend up around 7 or 8 to keep it from getting down to 5 on a sunny day. And remember, those pucks in the chlorinator are just raising your CYA even higher.

    How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
    ABCs of Water Chemistry
    Recommended Pool Chemicals
    How to Chlorinate Your Pool
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: so what about algaecides

    Quote Originally Posted by tim5055 View Post
    Actually, right now your chlorine is way too low. With CYA = 60 your FC should never be below 5 and we recommend up around 7 or 8 to keep it from getting down to 5 on a sunny day. And remember, those pucks in the chlorinator are just raising your CYA even higher.

    How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
    ABCs of Water Chemistry
    Recommended Pool Chemicals
    How to Chlorinate Your Pool
    yea, soon as they are gone it will be liquid from then on. I dont think a couple leftover pucks are going to send my cya to the heavens. I have read quite a bit of all that. But its not memorized and so as mentioned a learning process..lol
    I do recall the fc required is different for different cya levels and thanks and I will adjust via adding some liquid via the calculator.

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