First timer, just opened pool and put in chemicals, need help. Water is green

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Grayson73

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Aug 11, 2015
98
Potomac, MD
This is my first season opening the pool and I need help. The water was dark green and is now light green after a day.

Here are my numbers:

FC 6.5
CC 2.5
TC 9.0
pH 8.0
CH 300ppm
TA 140
CYA <20 (I could still see the black dot with the tube filled to 20)

Is there anything that I need to raise or lower or keep things as is? I've been grounding up Tri-Chlor for Chlorine. I'm in MD and replace almost all the water every season, so no need to worry about high CYA.

pool.jpg


Grayson
 
Do you have the right test kit? One that contains the all important FAS-DPD test? TF-100 or Taylor's K-2006C are the ones we recommend. No others. For your size pool I'd go for the TF-100, more bang for the buck.

What chemicals did you put in?? Have you read this: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Your pH is too high. Bring it down to 7.2 for a SLAM procedure to rid your pool of the algae that's making it green. Read this: SLAM Process

Raise your CYA to 30ppm so you can hold your FC and not sacrifice it to the sun gods.

Your TA will come down naturally as you drop your pH with muriatic acid.

Scoop out as much debris as you can from the pool, it will speed up the SLAM when the FC doesn't have to be expended oxydizing leaves and such.

Holler back with any questions :)
 
The trichlor is going to be WAY too slow to get your pool fixed up.

You need to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process.

Best to add stabilizer to get the CYA to 30ppm, lower the pH with muriatic acid, then use bleach for the SLAM. After passing the 3 criteria to complete the SLAM, you could use the tablets to maintain the FC and slowly raise the CYA if needed.
 
The trichlor is going to be WAY too slow to get your pool fixed up.
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A BIG +1 on that. Be smart when you adjust your chemistry. Get your CYA up to about 30 now with CYA. Then use bleach or liquid chlorine to bring your FC up to 16 ppm or so and KEEP IT THERE.

You will have a green pool for weeks unless you follow the SLAM procedure correctly

Save the pucks for when you go on vacation
 
Thanks for the advice. I was grounding up 2 of the trichlor pucks per day to get the chlorine up. Will that not work?

I wonder how many gallons of bleach I'll need. One problem is that I'm a new owner to the pool and don't know the volume.
 
Depends on what your normal clean pressure is. You should clean the filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

There is no need to change the filter settings unless you are backwashing, etc (and you should NEVER change them while the pump is running).
 

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Assuming you have a sand filter (signature please :) ) Do a backwash. When it's clear, do a rinse for 20 seconds. Then back to filter. Note the psi. That is your starting point. When the psi reaches a 25% increase, then you backwash/rinse/filter again. "Close" is just that, like closed for the winter.

Always rotate the handle that changes between filter modes in the same direction.
 
Is this a sand filter? It has 4 big filters in it:
IMG_20150902_171149.jpg


I don't have a backwash option, unfortunately.

The top has a pressure gauge with a twist knob, to "close" and "open". What position should I set it at before turning on the pump and what should it be set at while the pump is running?
 
Do a google search to find you manual. It sounds like you need to clean your filters. It will be a messy, wet job but needs to be done I bet. Let us know if you need any help after you find your manual.

Kim:cat:
 
The previous owner didn't leave a manual and it seems to be pretty old; google search didn't turn anything up. I do think that the valve should be "closed" when running the pump. When I tried running the pump with it "open", it was making a hissing noise.
 
Grayson73 said:
The previous owner didn't leave a manual and it seems to be pretty old; google search didn't turn anything up. I do think that the valve should be "closed" when running the pump. When I tried running the pump with it "open", it was making a hissing noise.
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What valve are you talking about that has a closed and open? The air release valve on the top? If so, you should run the pump and open it until water is shooting out and then close it. This purges the air from the filter. You should only need to do then when you open up the system (filter or pump).

That is indeed a cartridge filter.
See this: Pool School - Maintenance and Cleaning of Pool Filters
 
jblizzle said:
What valve are you talking about that has a closed and open? The air release valve on the top? If so, you should run the pump and open it until water is shooting out and then close it. This purges the air from the filter. You should only need to do then when you open up the system (filter or pump).
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the one. Interesting, I thought that if water was shooting, out, I was breaking it. Thanks so much!

All, I cleaned the 4 cylinder filters that was inside,..so much dirt! After that, it went down to 12PSI! Thanks to all!

Now to continue to slam to get rid of the green water :/
 
PS - I was able to find the owner's manual for the same name filter, just newer. The bottom label shows it's a Pentair Clean and Clear Plus cartridge filter. With a model number you should be able to find it if the label instructions aren't enough to help you.
Looks like we were posting at the same time! Glad you've made progress.
 

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