This is my friend of the family indoor pool
where to start first. Please
I know iknow I can't get there with my TF-100 test kit yet
Indoor pool out of control ????
- Thread starter rolo918
- Start date
This is my friend of the family indoor pool
where to start first. Please
I know iknow I can't get there with my TF-100 test kit yet
Indoor pools require substantially lower CYA than outdoor pools. I think 10CYA is the recommended dosage for window light UV degradation
FC levels that high are going to throw a false/high pH reading
FC levels that high are going to throw a false/high pH reading
The TA is also fine. I would only be worried if the TA were below 60 ppm... assuming the beep beep boop machine is correct.
The chlorine generator is still on I will have them turn it off
Should I drain some of the pool because the salt looks pretty high
it's a Pentair Chlorine generator
Should I drain some of the pool because the salt looks pretty high
it's a Pentair Chlorine generator
If the SWG isn't giving a high salt warning then no need to try to lower salt. Pentair IC reports high salt warning at 4500 ppm, but will continue to produce chlorine even with high salt.
First you should retest with a reliable test kit, second you should get the pH in line, third you should ignore the TA number and instead chase pH stability which will be a certain TA number, not the other way around.
ps I maintain the CYA on my indoor pool between 20-30 ppm, this is because the CYA turbidity test minimum reading is 20 or 30 ppm depending on which view tube you use, also with indoor pools CYA is about buffering FC not so much about UV protection
ps I maintain the CYA on my indoor pool between 20-30 ppm, this is because the CYA turbidity test minimum reading is 20 or 30 ppm depending on which view tube you use, also with indoor pools CYA is about buffering FC not so much about UV protection
