Salinity reading keeps changing

Jun 10, 2016
20
Texas
FC - 0
CC - 0 (Added some shock since system was not generating)
pH - 8.0
TA - 100
CH - 240
CYA - 60
Salinity - 3000

I have an Aquarite with a T-Cell-15 for a 15,000 gallon pool. The cell is 3 years old. I believe the PCB and display board may be the original (over 10 years old.) Over a week ago, I noticed the check salt and inspect cell lights were on continuous.

I have tried inspecting and cleaning the cell. I did not see any build up, but tried spraying it out, then cleaning with 4 parts water, 1 part muratic acid. Then, I recalibrated it and saved the salinity value that it settled on. It was still generating since the value was 2800.

The next day I noticed a rat chewed through the flow sensor cable, so I repaired the cable, and it was generating chlorine again. No error lights on. Only solid power and generating lights.

The next day after that and up to this point, I noticed the salinity reading drops over night and into the day. For example, it read 2800, then dropped to 1600. I had Leslie's test the water a couple times and the salinity is 3000. When it drops low, it is no longer generating.

Last night, I tried locking the salinity to 3000 before it completed recalibration just to get the cell running until I fix the issue. This morning it shows 400.

I did not see any noticeable burning on the face of the boards. The thermistor looks old, but it did not crumble when I tapped on it and does not appear to be cracked.

I plan to take the cell up to Leslie's to have them test it. Does this sound like a salt cell problem or PCB?

I noticed a few days ago the product name shows 88-5 and the software revision shows r8.80. Today, it shows 88-0 with revision r8.80. There is also NOT an option to set the tcell type (I will have to look later to see if there is a jumper on the board.)

Is this just an old Goldline PCB? It is strange the product is not AL-(a number).
 
you need to test the water yourself for the salt level. Wouldn't it be awful to have to buy a new SWG when the only problem was a lack of salt in the water? Get a hold of Taylor's K-1766 Salt test kit. This is the most accurate way to determine if your SWG is on the mark or.....? I personally prefer this test over strips for increased accuracy.

You can get one pretty fast from TFTestkits.net TFTestkits.net
 
Regardless of what any test says the salinity is, the average is dropping to a level so low on the display that the SWG will not generate chlorine. It will not generate when the salinity reading on the display drops below 2300ppm. The instant salinity check matches exactly what Leslie's tested the salinity to be, 3000 ppm.

The cell also passed when I took it up to Leslie's yesterday.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.