Help! Pool out of whack!

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J

Jane C

0
Jun 10, 2016
7
Carmel, IN
When I closed pool for 2 days a week ago, chlorine level was 5 and all other chemistries good. Opened the pool 2 days later and YUCK! Couldn't see the bottom. I went through the usual pool store advice :(. Monday - added 4 gallons of Vertex CSS-12 Sodium Hypochorite 12.5%. Tuesday - Added 1/2 gal. muratic acid, 8 gals of CSS-12, and clarifier. TC 2.8, FC 1.6, ph 7.6, TA 225, CH 300, Stab 24, TDS2374, Phos 500. Wed - Added Algecide 60, 8 gal of CSS-12 and 5 lbs oxyBrite powder. TC 5.2, FC .9, PH 7.5, TA 158, CH 300, Stab 53, TDS 2418, Phos 800. Thurs - added 5 lbs PH Plus and then 8 gal of CSS-12.
TC 3.2, FC 1.1, ph 6.4, TA 158, CH 300, Stab 51, TDS 2060, Phos 200.
Today - Friday - Remembered TFP - Why oh why did I stray???

Using TF-100 test kit: FC .5, CC 1.5, Alk 130, Cal 600 plus, CYA less than 20. I still cannot see the bottom of the pool!

Please advise. Thank you!
 
Hello Jane ad welcome to TFP! :wave: Now that you have a TF-100, we can get you rolling. So your water is yucky (green/cloudy) and you need to "SLAM" (link below) and as follows:
- CYA is very important. Too low and you lose FC to the sun. So make sure to test CYA outside under bright sunlight at your back. If it' still below 20, increase in 10 ppm increments until you reach 30. A CYA of 30 is your magic number for now.
- Your pH is way too low and very corrosive. Increase tight away with Borax (or soda ash) to at least 7.0, but preferably 7.2 (orange).
- AFTER you have adjusted the pH up to about 7.2, then increase FC to "12" using regular liquid bleach only (generic bleach is fine). Make sure it's plain, no scented products or splashless features.

Once you have CYA being increased to 30, pH adjust up to 7.2-ish, and FC at 12, you are officially SLAMming. Follow the instructions on the SLAM page for more details. Good luck!

To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...
 
Texas Splash said:
Hello Jane ad welcome to TFP! :wave: Now that you have a TF-100, we can get you rolling. So your water is yucky (green/cloudy) and you need to "SLAM" (link below) and as follows:
- CYA is very important. Too low and you lose FC to the sun. So make sure to test CYA outside under bright sunlight at your back. If it' still below 20, increase in 10 ppm increments until you reach 30. A CYA of 30 is your magic number for now.
- Your pH is way too low and very corrosive. Increase tight away with Borax (or soda ash) to at least 7.0, but preferably 7.2 (orange).
- AFTER you have adjusted the pH up to about 7.2, then increase FC to "12" using regular liquid bleach only (generic bleach is fine). Make sure it's plain, no scented products or splashless features.

Once you have CYA being increased to 30, pH adjust up to 7.2-ish, and FC at 12, you are officially SLAMming. Follow the instructions on the SLAM page for more details. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thank you! Should I add the soda ash at the same time of getting the CYA up? Or after? Looks like I'm making some progress with the CYA. Jane C
 
Jane C said:
When I closed pool for 2 days a week ago, chlorine level was 5 and all other chemistries good. Opened the pool 2 days later and YUCK! Couldn't see the bottom. I went through the usual pool store advice :(. Monday - added 4 gallons of Vertex CSS-12 Sodium Hypochorite 12.5%. Tuesday - Added 1/2 gal. muratic acid, 8 gals of CSS-12, and clarifier. TC 2.8, FC 1.6, ph 7.6, TA 225, CH 300, Stab 24, TDS2374, Phos 500. Wed - Added Algecide 60, 8 gal of CSS-12 and 5 lbs oxyBrite powder. TC 5.2, FC .9, PH 7.5, TA 158, CH 300, Stab 53, TDS 2418, Phos 800. Thurs - added 5 lbs PH Plus and then 8 gal of CSS-12.
TC 3.2, FC 1.1, ph 6.4, TA 158, CH 300, Stab 51, TDS 2060, Phos 200.
Today - Friday - Remembered TFP - Why oh why did I stray???

Using TF-100 test kit: FC .5, CC 1.5, Alk 130, Cal 600 plus, CYA less than 20. I still cannot see the bottom of the pool!

Please advise. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Wow. How much did you spend on all that? :shock:

Just so you know.... that oxybrite powder contain MPS, which will give falsely high CC readings.

If you have any of the clarifier, the algaecide, or the oxybrite left... set them aside for the next hazmat collection day. You don't need them. You don;t need the phos-free they likely sold you, either. You also don't need the pool store tests. That "free" testing cost you plenty. In the same week you've added both acid and pH plus, which tend to cancel each other out.

I would be curious how adding 5 lbs of pH plus would leave TA unaffected and lower pH from 7.5 to 6.4 :scratch:

Trust your own test results. And do not neglect to test pH yourself. It's in the little blue box inside your TF100. You don't have to use the OTO test, just the pH side. But check that yourself before you add any borax or soda ash (also known as pH plus)
 

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