New build in Indiana

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Ok, thank you! I read about using a thermal blanket, but not on colored concrete. So, hopefully, they will get the proportions right:)
Also, my concrete contractor said I do not need rebar in the 4" slabs. I called IMI concrete company for another reason, but asked their opinion about having no rebar. They said I didn't need it either. I could use a fiber mesh.
What are your thoughts?
Divin Dave said:
It's certainly its preferable to pour concrete with warmer temps but that's not always possible and stay in business or meet schedules for all sorts of construction.

Concrete can be poured in colder weather and cure properly by adding calcium chloride to the concrete mix. The calcium chloride will keep the water from freezing and accelerate the curing of the concrete in cooler temps. Im sure that if necessary, this is what the concrete guys will do. The only thing the guys need to be careful about is adding too much of it.
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You don't need calcium chloride. Just dont pour at below freezing temps. Early in the season the ground will still be warm and if cold temperatures come upon you, cover with plastic sheeting and straw or insulated blankets can be rented. Fibermesh IS NOT reinforcement and is not a substiture for it. If you don't use rebar then use 6x6 WWF (welded wire fabric). Once your concrete has achieved a compressive strength of 600 psi it will not be damaged by a light freeze. Be sure to order air-entrained concrete for any above grade pour in freezing climates. Keep the curing concrete damp for as long as is practical. (at least a week) It will aid in the hydration process.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm hoping it will not be below freezing when it's poured. I'm thinking Ill need some kind of metal in the concrete to bond it with the pool?
BigEinAZ said:
You don't need calcium chloride. Just dont pour at below freezing temps. Early in the season the ground will still be warm and if cold temperatures come upon you, cover with plastic sheeting and straw or insulated blankets can be rented. Fibermesh IS NOT reinforcement and is not a substiture for it. If you don't use rebar then use 6x6 WWF (welded wire fabric). Once your concrete has achieved a compressive strength of 600 psi it will not be damaged by a light freeze. Be sure to order air-entrained concrete for any above grade pour in freezing climates. Keep the curing concrete damp for as long as is practical. (at least a week) It will aid in the hydration process.
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Thank you:) I'm so thankful for the wealth of information on this forum. I knew (from TFP) that the patio needs to be bonded. My PB is not doing any pouring of the concrete patio. I have to sub it out. I tried asking both of them about bonding the patio to the pool. PB said he's never heard of that. He said if concrete has no metal....it doesn't need bonding. We all know better;)
Concrete sub is not an electrician, and I wouldn't expect him to know. It's just frustrating paying this much and still babysitting things.

I need advice on how to properly bond the patio since I'm on my own with this. I mean step by step....dumb it down for me please lol. The coping will be poured about 10 days before the rest. Does the copper bonding wire need to be under the poured coping.....or do we leave it out and just connect it to the mesh in the coping?
BigEinAZ said:
You will want a rebar mat or WWF for reinforcement and they are both metal so either can be bonded with the pool.
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The safest way to do this is to hire an electrician that understands the concept of equipotential bonding to coordinate the bonding of EVERYTHING including the pool, equipment, and surrounding items since your pool builder doesn't grasp the concept.
 
I will be ordering it and the speed stir thing as well:) They backfield with stone today, and will start forming the cantilever edge on Friday. Saturday, the old patio is getting ripped up, and next week the new patio will be poured.....then the liner will go in. They have done a good job so far. They did, however, inform me that their bobcat hit the edge of the garage roof and ripped up a small area. They said they will fix it. I still owe 2 of the three payments, and will not pay until it's fixed. I don't think Ill have an issue with that though. Hope not anyway!
kimkats said:
Getting CLOSE! Time to order you test kit! Look in my siggy below for the one I think is the best bang for the buck!

Kim:kim:
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Things have been moving along. Ill post pics soon. I went with 1350 sqft exposed aggregate decking. That was finished today. Still needs to be sealed though. The equipment is all hooked up too. They will clean up of the bottom of the pool on Sunday, fence and liner installation on Wednesday. I received my test kit and winter cover this week as well. AND.....it has been in the 70&80's this last week. 60-70's this coming week. I do not recall it ever being this warm in mid November:))
 
I'm having problems posting pics. One at a time will have to do for now. My liner was installed a few days ago. PB installed it around 4, had the vac going then left. As he was leaving he told me to start filling until it gets about 2 inches below the light....then stop. He also pointed out that the liner was too big in the corners of my bench. It looked like saggy pants. He said if I'm not ok with it....he'd take pics, send them to Latham, and replace it.

We agreed to fill it and decide afterwards. So I start filling the pool. They left without getting the wrinkles out of the floor. Came back the next day and tried with a plunger, and cut in the light.

My pool is almost full ( at the skimmer). Unfortunately, I have about 12 wrinkles on the floor, bench is off ( wrinkles) and after turning on the light at night.....there is rock ( seems to be about an inch long) under the liner.

I maybe could have lived with the bench issue. However, those three issues combined are not acceptable to me. My motto has been....if it can go wrong....it will lol. Will the rock cause problems....or the wrinkles?
 
nope..........redo is needed.

-rock-could cause problems in the long run with the cleaner running over it, brush, feet, etc

-wrinkles-just looks bad AND again can cause problems for the above reasons

-bench-read BIG nope! That looks like a huge problem-dirt holder, algae breeding area, etc.

I have a sad for you but at least he is going to make it right :(

Kim :hug:
 
I'm glad that I'm not the only one that feels this way. Thank you for verifying my concerns. I'm hoping I can just close it now, and they'll replace it next spring. I will tell him I want a new liner:). And I'll will get a addendum added to my contract.
kimkats said:
nope..........redo is needed.

-rock-could cause problems in the long run with the cleaner running over it, brush, feet, etc

-wrinkles-just looks bad AND again can cause problems for the above reasons

-bench-read BIG nope! That looks like a huge problem-dirt holder, algae breeding area, etc.

I have a sad for you but at least he is going to make it right :(

Kim :hug:
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I still owe the final (3rd) installment. They are all equal. Almost 9k each time. Do I just not pay the third until next spring after they replace it?? At this point it's not too far away.
I just read my contract, and it says I have a year (with written notice) of warranty in workmanship. It days all equipment, liner will be under the manufacturer warranty. If the pool is used prior to hook up....warranty is void. So I guess with my honey going out to the middle may void the warranty. Although, PB said we could/should get in to work the wrinkles, and left his little plunger with directions on how to use it. And we found the rock in the middle. So now, I'm afraid we messed up. I'm starting to hate my pool:(
 

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