I have a pool leak ... onto fixing that for the time being
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
FC and TC Dropping Consistently
- Thread starter MAndrews1
- Start date
Add 30ppm of CYA in a sock and keep FC at 4-5 using bleach while you are working on the leak. That will stop it from becoming a swamp.
More here on adding CYA, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
More here on adding CYA, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Fixed the leak. Now I am on to the SLAM. I believe I found what was making the CC so high in the pool. I pulled out the main drain basket which was full of muck and leaves. It smelled pretty bad as well.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Re: High Combined Chlorine Numbers
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
I picked some up today. $2.50 / gallon. Also stocked up on baking soda for when the time comes. Currently doing a SLAM.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Drastic FC Drop During SLAM?
Is it common for the FC to drop from over a 7 to a 1 in an hour, or could my testing be off somehow. I'm using "over a 7" because I added more liquid chlorine after I tested at 7ppm earlier this evening to try and get to 12. My CC is registering at 1.0 right now.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Is it common for the FC to drop from over a 7 to a 1 in an hour, or could my testing be off somehow. I'm using "over a 7" because I added more liquid chlorine after I tested at 7ppm earlier this evening to try and get to 12. My CC is registering at 1.0 right now.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Re: Drastic FC Drop During SLAM?
If the pool is green and gooey looking, yes. And any organic debris in the bottom will also steal it. But if you used too little powder to do the FC test, that could also give a false low reading.
If you have no CYA, then the FC can drop quickly, but 7 to 1 is not likely due to the sun. You likely have stuff in the water.
Re: Drastic FC Drop During SLAM?
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
I was curious if it was too little powder. My water is almost clear as can be.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Not too sure what is going on. I've put 3 96oz jugs of 10% in today. My FC is 1.0 and CC is 0.0. Could it be because I am at the bottom of the powder supply?
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
MA, is there any chance some rv Antifreeze got in your water on opening? Eg if you opened yourself, and antifreeze in the lines, did you first set your filter to waste to pump it off as you opened the lines?
We've seen a few cases where folks with clear water have high ccs and trouble holding chlorine and it often seems related to larger amount of antifreeze getting into the pool on opening. You still have to oxidize it via slamming, but it helps make sense of the situation
Just a thought.
We've seen a few cases where folks with clear water have high ccs and trouble holding chlorine and it often seems related to larger amount of antifreeze getting into the pool on opening. You still have to oxidize it via slamming, but it helps make sense of the situation
Just a thought.
I closed the pool with some anti-freeze last year. I opened this year on May 24th. Could it still be present in the water? I have done a few backwashes and vac to waste. One of question/scenario I am thinking of....my pump does not draw from the main drain. Apparently there was a leak somewhere in between the drain and skimmer. It was "fixed" when we bought the house. Is it possible for the liquid chlorine to sink to the bottom and have a hard time getting through the filter system and stay closer to the surface where I am taking my sample from (18in or so deep). Or am I really overthinking this?
Not sure on your second question but if RV antifreeze got in the water it sticks around a while nail both oxidized by chlorine and or worn off. For this reason, I'm thinking if everything else is crystal clear, no sings of alga, etc. you might be as well off to drain a bit of water to dilute it, or just keep slamming but know that you're high ccs might be related to the chem reaction as opposed to organics.
I am wondering now if it is the stain in my pool...possibly algae. It seems that it has lightened up a bit over the last few days. I ran out of the DPD powder (re-supply coming). All I had for use last night was the test strips. They were registering at 0. Once I dumped a gallon of liquid chlorine in the strip read 3-5, then it went back down to 0 after a while. I will be able to perform a full test tonight hopefully.
I went out to Wal-Mart last night to purchase some liquid chlorine to SLAM the pool. I still have been having issues maintaining a FC level of any kind. Prior to adding any chlorine to the water my test results were;
FC - 0.0
CC - 0.0
pH - 7.4
TA - 110
CYA - 35
I added 3 gallons of bleach and was able to get the FC level up to 14 when I tested an hour later. Before heading to bed last night I tested the levels again and the FC had fallen to 9.0. I assumed I would fail the OCLT so I dumped in another gallon to bring it back up to 14. This morning I tested and was at 9.0 again and dumped another gallon in. My CC has remained at 0 through this.
Am I going about this correctly?
FC - 0.0
CC - 0.0
pH - 7.4
TA - 110
CYA - 35
I added 3 gallons of bleach and was able to get the FC level up to 14 when I tested an hour later. Before heading to bed last night I tested the levels again and the FC had fallen to 9.0. I assumed I would fail the OCLT so I dumped in another gallon to bring it back up to 14. This morning I tested and was at 9.0 again and dumped another gallon in. My CC has remained at 0 through this.
Am I going about this correctly?
+1 - you've broken the back of whatever was causing the zeroing, so just keep on maintaining till you've passed the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and you'll be golden!