Hello all! I had to drain this 18x48 Intex pool I was given to fix a small leak around the fitting. Now that it's back up with no leaks, I'm adding the chemicals. My little test kit only has a tc/br part and no fc. I wanted to get the chlorine real high to make sure everything was clean. We have horrible water here. The kit only goes to 5 tc and 10 br. The high part is a good, deep yellow. I put enough chlorine in it to make the test turn orange. I've read the pool school section by the way. From what I read, the tablets I have also have stabilizer in em. I put x3 1" tablets in it as well to get some of that stabilizer in it. I'm gonna test that tomorrow morning, but just want to know if I'm on the right track. Thanks
Want to make sure I'm starting off right
- Thread starter Crazyhorse712
- Start date
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
You sure are on the right track. You have a pool, you came to TFP and you're learning safe reliable methods that will keep your water sparkling!
Pool Math (button at the top of the page) will tell you how long you can use tabs and how many. Try it out. Enter your pool volume at the top (you can get it from Intex website, or use the volume calculator at the bottom of Pool Math). Play around with the "Now" and "Target" numbers, using 30-40 PPM CYA (aka cyanuric acid, stabilizer). You'll be able to determine your limit for CYA, which the pucks are adding. When you reach that limit, you'll need to stop using pucks and switch to liquid chlorine. Pool Math is an amazing tool to get comfortable using.
I'm sure you're working through the other water chemistry steps, such as pH, so just ask any questions any time. Consider ordering a TF100 test kit, it will give you a lot more knowledge and ability to take full control of your pool.
Pool Math (button at the top of the page) will tell you how long you can use tabs and how many. Try it out. Enter your pool volume at the top (you can get it from Intex website, or use the volume calculator at the bottom of Pool Math). Play around with the "Now" and "Target" numbers, using 30-40 PPM CYA (aka cyanuric acid, stabilizer). You'll be able to determine your limit for CYA, which the pucks are adding. When you reach that limit, you'll need to stop using pucks and switch to liquid chlorine. Pool Math is an amazing tool to get comfortable using.
I'm sure you're working through the other water chemistry steps, such as pH, so just ask any questions any time. Consider ordering a TF100 test kit, it will give you a lot more knowledge and ability to take full control of your pool.
Well, water isn't clear yet, but it looks better. It's not murky or anything. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't adding too much. Like I said, the water here is horrible and it'll probably take a little time. Some places it's brown. Luckily we live outside that area. The calculator is what I used, just seemed like a lot. Even with the small troubles I've had, I think we'll upgrade to a permanent above ground next year. This is really just a starter pool so I can learn how to keep the water nice. Ph is the next step. We won't be in it till this weekend so I have plenty of time. I think.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
I get around a quart of 8.25% bleach to provide 3 PPM FC in that pool, using 7,000 gallon capacity. Your pool will go through about 2-3 PPM FC per day, on average if it's in a sunny spot.
Good idea re: learning it all on this pool. With that being your plan, I encourage you to get a full test kit. It's $70 from TFTestkits.net
To be clear, I'm not connected with TF Test Kits, just mentioning it because it's good value for a TFPer. They use high quality components, Taylor testing reagents, and customize the kits to provide you with what you'll need for TFP methods. The Taylor K-2006 is also a complete kit that works for TFPC.
Good idea re: learning it all on this pool. With that being your plan, I encourage you to get a full test kit. It's $70 from TFTestkits.net
To be clear, I'm not connected with TF Test Kits, just mentioning it because it's good value for a TFPer. They use high quality components, Taylor testing reagents, and customize the kits to provide you with what you'll need for TFP methods. The Taylor K-2006 is also a complete kit that works for TFPC.
Apparently I'm doing something right. Lol! Tested it before I got into bed and the tc is still high, which I believe is what I want for right now, but the ph also went up. It was at 7.5 which I believe is good. Of course I'll test again in the morning and will test the cya to see if I need more or not.
On another note, Walmart is the only place that sells actual liquid chlorine around here. All the local pool places only sell granules. They all told me it's exactly like liquid chlorine. All of em said its only chlorine and nothing else. I know I can use bleach, but for $2.50 a gallon of 10% is nice. Is anything wrong with the granules? Why wouldn't they carry it in liquid form too?
On another note, Walmart is the only place that sells actual liquid chlorine around here. All the local pool places only sell granules. They all told me it's exactly like liquid chlorine. All of em said its only chlorine and nothing else. I know I can use bleach, but for $2.50 a gallon of 10% is nice. Is anything wrong with the granules? Why wouldn't they carry it in liquid form too?
PH at 7.5 is fine. What is "high" FC? 10% LC from WM is fine. Liquid chlorine and bleach are the same thing, bleach is 8.25% and LC is 10% or 12%. Granular chlorine adds CYA to your pool eventually getting it too high.
More here, ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
And here, Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
More here, ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
And here, Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Don't really know what the exact tc level is cause my test kit only goes to 5. At 5, it's the color of a good banana peel. With what I added to it, it surpassed that and went orange. So I'm guessing 10-15. I know, I need a better test kit. Since the pool was free and I'm poor, lol, I'm doing this cheap right now.
I know that liquid chlorine and bleach are the same, but $3 for 8.25% and $2.50 for 10% is a no brainer to me.
Now the granule stuff is weird to me. Why am I seeing that it will add cya on here, but every pool place I went to in town says it's straight chlorine? If I need something tomorrow, I'm going to bring this up and see what they say. Probably just trying to sell me their stuff.
I've read all that, but reading and getting advice are two totally different things to me. I also do better with trial and error and learning from my mistakes.
I know that liquid chlorine and bleach are the same, but $3 for 8.25% and $2.50 for 10% is a no brainer to me.
Now the granule stuff is weird to me. Why am I seeing that it will add cya on here, but every pool place I went to in town says it's straight chlorine? If I need something tomorrow, I'm going to bring this up and see what they say. Probably just trying to sell me their stuff.
I've read all that, but reading and getting advice are two totally different things to me. I also do better with trial and error and learning from my mistakes.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Your pH reading will be higher than normal because of the high FC. The orange colour in your OTO test gives us only a very rough idea, but you're probably up around 20 PPM FC based on the description so far. Let it dissipate down to 5 or less. Don't add anymore liquid chlorine until it does. The dirt in the fill water will be filtered out by your filter.
The tabs you have in the pool are the same as granular or powdered chlorine, and the store is incorrect that the powder only has chlorine. Both have stabilizer (CYA). It's not possible to answer why they don't sell liquid chlorine, but it could be because they like it when people's pools go green and they can sell more chemicals.
Get the liquid from WalMart, but for now, don't add any - let the FC drop.
Will you be getting a test kit as described? If not, we'll work out a way to manage with what you have, but it won't be as easy as it would with the better test kit.
Have you used Pool Math to determine how many tabs to dissolve before we use only liquid chlorine? (to get to 40 CYA). Also a reminder to keep track of how many tabs you've put in so far.
The tabs you have in the pool are the same as granular or powdered chlorine, and the store is incorrect that the powder only has chlorine. Both have stabilizer (CYA). It's not possible to answer why they don't sell liquid chlorine, but it could be because they like it when people's pools go green and they can sell more chemicals.
Get the liquid from WalMart, but for now, don't add any - let the FC drop.
Will you be getting a test kit as described? If not, we'll work out a way to manage with what you have, but it won't be as easy as it would with the better test kit.
Have you used Pool Math to determine how many tabs to dissolve before we use only liquid chlorine? (to get to 40 CYA). Also a reminder to keep track of how many tabs you've put in so far.
Yes, the PH test is not valid when FC is over 10. It does take some reading and some doing and then more reading for it to all sink in. I had to read it 30 or 40 times, print it and read it some more at first. But, once you're in the middle of it for a while the learning curve eases up a lot.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Hey yep, we can get this done with the kit you have, it's just not as easy. By the way, I was writing my post at the same time as you, so I hadn't seen your response.
So anyway, your pH is probably around 7.2, but we won't know until the chlorine dissipates below 10.
The real key right now is to get comfortable with Pool Math and only add enough CYA (via the tabs you already have) so you don't go over 50 max. 40 is a good number to shoot for. But you need to get your pool volume into Pool Math, and then use the weight of tabs that have gone in so far. If there's room left on the CYA number, we can continue to put in tabs. Once it gets to 40, we stop using tabs, and use just liquid chlorine.
So anyway, your pH is probably around 7.2, but we won't know until the chlorine dissipates below 10.
The real key right now is to get comfortable with Pool Math and only add enough CYA (via the tabs you already have) so you don't go over 50 max. 40 is a good number to shoot for. But you need to get your pool volume into Pool Math, and then use the weight of tabs that have gone in so far. If there's room left on the CYA number, we can continue to put in tabs. Once it gets to 40, we stop using tabs, and use just liquid chlorine.
1st off, I appreciate everything. I have a house to take care of, a 2 year old, 2 dogs and I am studying for a test to better my career. It's not easy to keep reading everything in the pool school over and over atm. For right now, it's easier for me to just ask and answer questions and I greatly appreciate everything y'all have said.
I'm a quick learner cause everything y'all have said, I had already determined that's what I need to do. No more chlorine.
I'm gonna have to live with the test kit I have for now. The other one just isn't in the budget atm.
If I'm reading it right, I'm gonna have to add like 62 of those tablets! The Intex site says the pool is about 5,800 gallons, the tablets are .5 oz a piece and the calculator says I need 31 oz by weight or 33 oz by vol. That seems like a lot! Maybe I need to just get straight stabilizer? I only added 3 of the tablets so far and the test this morning is still at 0.
I'm a quick learner cause everything y'all have said, I had already determined that's what I need to do. No more chlorine.
I'm gonna have to live with the test kit I have for now. The other one just isn't in the budget atm.
If I'm reading it right, I'm gonna have to add like 62 of those tablets! The Intex site says the pool is about 5,800 gallons, the tablets are .5 oz a piece and the calculator says I need 31 oz by weight or 33 oz by vol. That seems like a lot! Maybe I need to just get straight stabilizer? I only added 3 of the tablets so far and the test this morning is still at 0.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Yep for sure. Straight stabilizer will definitely be handier and then it's done. Save the tabs for when you go away or something. When you get the CYA, put it in an old sock, tie the end and leave some extra string. Hang it in the pool on a stick (looks like a fishing pole hanging there). That's so it won't touch the sides. After it wets up, put on some rubber gloves and massage it every 15/20 minutes to help it dissolve.
When you get a second, hug that kid, and then put your pool volume in your signature (edit signature link is in my signature). That helps a lot. You got this!
- - - Updated - - -
30 PPM CYA will work fine, if the package size works out better.
When you get a second, hug that kid, and then put your pool volume in your signature (edit signature link is in my signature). That helps a lot. You got this!
- - - Updated - - -
30 PPM CYA will work fine, if the package size works out better.
Alright, stabilizer is in a sock and tied to the ladder. Figured that'd be easier. I didn't even have string! Used my mowing bandana. It's clean. No rubber gloves either. Do have some new work gloves that have a rubber bottom, so am gonna use those.
Chlorine is at 0 now. Did the calculations and added what is supposed to be the right amount.
Now for me talking with the pool guy. Here's what he said when I asked him all the questions about the granules and tablets. "The tablets have 90% chlorine where bleach has 8% and liquid chlorine has 10%-12% therefore it lasts longer. Yes they have stabilizer, but it's only to stabilize the chlorine in the tablets or granules. It will not add to the stabilizer that has been set in the pool." I asked more questions, but that was the big question I asked.
Chlorine is at 0 now. Did the calculations and added what is supposed to be the right amount.
Now for me talking with the pool guy. Here's what he said when I asked him all the questions about the granules and tablets. "The tablets have 90% chlorine where bleach has 8% and liquid chlorine has 10%-12% therefore it lasts longer. Yes they have stabilizer, but it's only to stabilize the chlorine in the tablets or granules. It will not add to the stabilizer that has been set in the pool." I asked more questions, but that was the big question I asked.
Gloves? Pffffttt, those are only for aussies who are former canucks! LOL!!!!! 
I swim around with mine and squeeze it.
More Fool Store lies! Of course they add stabilizer to the pool, where else would it go? Sheesh!
I swim around with mine and squeeze it.
More Fool Store lies! Of course they add stabilizer to the pool, where else would it go? Sheesh!
Lol! I didn't know! I thought maybe it'd burn me or something.
That's what I thought too, but Wasn't gonna argue with the guy.
It's actually nice right now! Water is a good temp, I'm "cleaning" it (at least that's what I'm gonna tell the wife) and doing the stabilizer thing. Filter was filthy though! It was literally brown. Cleaned it right up and gonna get some more this weekend. So far, so good.
That's what I thought too, but Wasn't gonna argue with the guy.
It's actually nice right now! Water is a good temp, I'm "cleaning" it (at least that's what I'm gonna tell the wife) and doing the stabilizer thing. Filter was filthy though! It was literally brown. Cleaned it right up and gonna get some more this weekend. So far, so good.
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Way to go, you got this. Gloves schmuvvs, huh, lol. Glad the CYA is in.
The OTO test is not real accurate, so keep your FC test result up near the top yellow color. You don't ever want it below 3 if your CYA is 40.
pH going well?
The OTO test is not real accurate, so keep your FC test result up near the top yellow color. You don't ever want it below 3 if your CYA is 40.
pH going well?
Right! 
My lovely bride knows just how hard it is to maintain the pool and keep it clean and sparkly! I keep reminding her! Lotta work!
My lovely bride knows just how hard it is to maintain the pool and keep it clean and sparkly! I keep reminding her! Lotta work!Ended up taking the gloves off and just messing with the sock, walking around till it was gone.
I screwed up and have no more liquid stuff to test the cya, but the fc is between 2-4. So that's good. Gotta pick up some more test stuff when I go get the ph enhancer.
The ph is low, but apparently not too low. It felt perfectly fine while I was in it and I feel great now that I'm out. Was in there a couple hours. Quite neighborhood so I just chilled after skimming, vacuuming and doing the stabilizer.
One question though. What actually keeps the water sparkling clear? Is it the chlorine or something else? A combination of everything?
I screwed up and have no more liquid stuff to test the cya, but the fc is between 2-4. So that's good. Gotta pick up some more test stuff when I go get the ph enhancer.
The ph is low, but apparently not too low. It felt perfectly fine while I was in it and I feel great now that I'm out. Was in there a couple hours. Quite neighborhood so I just chilled after skimming, vacuuming and doing the stabilizer.
One question though. What actually keeps the water sparkling clear? Is it the chlorine or something else? A combination of everything?
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Yes, a combination of everything, but mostly the filtering of particles. And there's less particles if everything is skimmed, killed and/or vacuumed/filtered.
You said pH enhancer, what are you planning to use? No need for the pool $tore on this one.
You said pH enhancer, what are you planning to use? No need for the pool $tore on this one.
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