New to pool care, need help ;)

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sbalkenbush

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May 23, 2016
12
Reno, NV
We are opening the pool, and I need help with the TFP method. What products do I need to buy? Last year we used 3" chlorine tablets, but I would like to use simpler products and save money. I have test strips that measure FCL, Alk, pH and CH. I know I need a new test kit, but I want to get started now. Currently, the water is reading 0 FCL, 80 Alk, 6.2 pH and 0 CH. Thank you for your time and energy into responding to me and helping me learn this pool stuff!

Shanel
 
Hello Shane and welcome to TFP! :wave: Everything you need is below in my signature. Start with the TF-100 test kit link (include the speed stir) and the Recommended Chemicals. I also suggest the Pool School link which will take you to a couple very valuable pages to get you started. Great to have you with us.
 
You can get cyanuric acid from Wal-Mart or hardware store pool sections. It's usually called stabilizer/condition and may be in a 4lb container for about $16. Depending upon how much you need to add, you may need two containers. Once you get your CYA to the recommended level (let's say 40 to start with in your area of the Silver State), then it should last for a while. The Poolmath calculator tells me for your pool you'll need 117 ounces (7 lb, 5 ounces) to get CYA to 40. Other than stabilzer right now and some regular bleach to keep your FC at about 5 ppm once the stabilizer is dissolve and in your water, wait for your test kit, post a full set of results, and we can help you from there.
 
I wouldn't purchase any CYA until you know your current levels and I would stick with bleach until you test your water with the new kit.

Can you update your signature with the type of filter, cartridge, sand, DE and the type of cleaner you use (polaris, creepy crawly, etc).
 
Hey TFP!

I have the test kit and it is so confusing. I ordered the Taylor kit K-2006 with a complete FAS-DPD cholorine test included. Where do I start? The water is blue but cloudy, with visibility being around 5 feet (pool is 9.5ft deep in the deep end, 3 feet in shallow).
 
Start with your CYA test as follows:
Proper lighting is important for the CYA test. You want to test for CYA outside on a sunny day, but keep the skinny view tube in the shade. Taylor recommends standing in the sun with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.
Click to expand...

After that, do the FC test as follows:
10ml sample with one heaping scoop of powder, multiply drop count by 0.5 (standard method)
Click to expand...
Example: 8 Drops from pink to clear = FC of 4.
 

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Oooh weee! That's a high CYA, and it may even be higher since we round-up CYA to the next higher number. A couple things ..... I would recommend that you perform a CYA "diluted" test method as follows:
CYA Dilution Testing:
Add pool water to bottom of sticker. (or 7ml line)
Add tap water to top of sticker. (or 14 ml line)
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
Add reagent to top of sticker.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
Click to expand...

For future FC testing, use the 10ml sample to save on reagents you use. Fill a 10ml sample, add ONE heaping scoop of powder, mix & multiply drop count by 0.5 (divide by 2) - Example: 14 drops = FC of 7.
 
Sadly, it would be difficult to SLAM your pool with a CYA that high. I suggest draining 70% of the water and refill. I'm not sure if it is available but some areas of the country have reverse osmosis which will remove the excess CYA and will also reduce your CH... I didn't see where you posted your CH.
 
We used the hockey pucks last year, and have just been keeping them in the filter basket as I am trying to figure out the TFP method. I don't know why the CYA is so high. The FC test was 2.8 (14 drops at 25mL). I really don't want to have to drain that much water...is there any other way? The water is greenish-blue but with only a visibility of 5 feet (our pool is 9.5ft deep in the deep end, so we haven't seen the bottom yet). I am in Reno, NV, how do I find out about this reverse osmosis?

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We just refilled our pool last year.
 
The reviews from other members haven't been supportive of CYA reducers. Some haven't had a reduction at all and others noticed a small reduction, but it was within the margin of error of the test so not enough to say that product help at all.
 
There were quite a few active threads about it last year. A number of people tried it and reported mostly poor results. There was even a Bioactive person participating in some of the threads and trying to help people with it. The general concensus seems to be that it does not work consistently. For me it goes into the category of pool store potions that rarely work and are not worth the money and effort.
 
sbalkenbush said:
We used the hockey pucks last year, and have just been keeping them in the filter basket as I am trying to figure out the TFP method. I don't know why the CYA is so high. The FC test was 2.8 (14 drops at 25mL). I really don't want to have to drain that much water...is there any other way? The water is greenish-blue but with only a visibility of 5 feet (our pool is 9.5ft deep in the deep end, so we haven't seen the bottom yet). I am in Reno, NV, how do I find out about this reverse osmosis?

- - - Updated - - -

We just refilled our pool last year.
Click to expand...

The reason your CYA is high is the trichlor pucks. The pucks use CYA as the chlorine stabilizer to create a dry powder that won't lose chlorine potency. Anytime you use those pucks, you're adding CYA to your pool. I have a similar sized pool and in the first year after filling my pool (using pucks to chlorinate–before I found this website!) my CYA was over 100. Your numbers are not uncommon.

You should look at what the cost of a partial drain and refill will cost versus the chemicals you will need to rebalance the water you currently have in the pool. I know the cost of water is high but the overall cost of the chemical to remove CYA is way higher! I'd read the reviews of that chemical on Amazon.com before buying it! I also highly recommend your drain at least 50% from your pool and stop using those pucks.

The cloudy water is caused by something organic in your water (most likely algae). With the CYA at 90-100, you need to maintain a FC level between 10-12ppm JUST TO PROPERLY SANITIZE your pool. Once you have an algae bloom (which you probably do) you'll have to shock the pool to 35-40 ppm FC. Please read these links: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

The most important thing is to not panic and begin dumping in chemicals that you don't understand their total effect on your pools and equipment. The folks on this forum have decades of experience at this. I can guarantee (from personal experience) you'll have a crystal clear pool with minimum cost if you follow the advice in the forum and the Pool School pages! The second most important thing is to have a lot of POP (Pool Owner Patience)! Your pool didn't get like this overnight (no matter what you think) and it will take some time and effort to clear it up.
 

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