Too much salt (and CYA)

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J

John85

0
Jun 4, 2016
65
Saint Louis, MO
Pool Size
27400
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hello,
I just switched my 27400 gal. vinyl pool over to a salt system (the pool is new to me as well), a Hayward AQR-15. My service manager at the store that installed it told me to add 18 bags of salt, I added 16, holding 2 back in case I didn't need it. As it turns out I may not have needed 2-3 other bags as well since I have 4200-4300 ppm. Should I let this go for a time or dump now?

A similar thing happened with CYA (I added 16 lbs when I probably only needed 2-2.5, again on manager recommendation; I was also freaking out a little because I couldn't keep Cl in the pool with all of the sun so I just dumped everything I had late at night and low on sleep (OOPS). I know I'll need to dump that at some point so I'm thinking of dumping 20% now, balancing the pool and getting it "swimmable" (which I think it is, my numbers are ok but the water's blue green and cloudy) and handling the rest later? I'm only going on math now, my test kit's in the mail and I should have some real numbers by Monday/Tuesday, should I wait to dump until then?

Happily accepting advice.
 
If the SWG is not complaining, then you should be fine. If it warns the salt is too high, then you need to replace some water.

Use bleach to maintain the FC until the SWG can keep up.
 
What does your SWG manual say about salt range? And what does your SWG say about the salt level? Is it giving you a high salt warning? Mine gives a hi warning at 4500 ppm but continues to make salt.

Let's wait for the CYA test before deciding whether it needs to be lowered.
 
Rec. range is 2700-3400 (3200 "ideal"), the generator isn't complaining and is keeping up ok with production (it's only at 50% too, so room to go up). I suppose less Cl is burning off perhaps with the extra CYA? I'm happy to wait to test before draining, my backwash hose broke and it will take a little while to replace it with PVC and maybe another hose anyway. My only rush is my wife and kids wanting to swim...
Thanks guys!
 
For the backwash hose consider buying a "used" fire hose on ebay, a 1.5 inch fire hose can often be found in the 50-100 ft range for well under $50, sometimes under $40. These are usually hoses that spent their whole life in an emergency cabinet somewhere and were replaced due to being passed their certification dates (20 years I between certifications, where it is usually cheaper to replace the hose than to recertify). You can then either get a NPT (National pipe thread) to NH (National Hose) or NST (National Standard Thread) threaded adapter for $10-$15, or just cut the end off and use it with your existing hose barb and a hose clamp.
 
If your water is cloudy, read pool school and specifically the ABC'S of water chemistry. After that, read the SLAM process. And stay out of the pool store. Lol. Welcome!!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
I'm posting this here but maybe ought to in a new thread (let me know what you think).

I added some DE to my filter yesterday (a little too much, maybe) but between that and a good brushing it has really cleared up (still can't clearly see the floor/main drain in the deep end, 8' 8"). FC is around 6, no CC, pH = 8.2, TA = 120, I still don't have a (chemical test) number for CYA (my kit arrives today!) but all things being equal I added 16 lbs to 27,400 gallons so that should put me around 70 mathematically (if there wasn't any in yet and I haven't flushed too much with backwashes). On CYA, the unit I have (Hayward AQR-15) recommends 30-50 ppm but on TFP it suggests 70-80 for a SWCG, why the discrepancy and will this affect my unit?

I backwashed this morning and was going to add a little more DE and brush again once I drop my 2 toddlers at my grandma's. The salt is still high (4200-440 ppm) but the SWCG isn't complaining yet. I need to top off my water later, too. I also thought about dropping my robot in the pool to help stir up/scrub the bottom. Anything else I should do?

Once the kit arrives I'll start a SLAM (I've already hit it real well but didn't do it properly).

I'll post test results when my kit arrives (do it here or a new thread?)
 

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Lower that PH to 7.2 for the SLAM. In general it is important to keep PH between 7.2 and 7.8 at all times. And also note that the PH test is not valid when FC is over 10 ppm.

No, CYA at 70-80 will not have any impact on the SWG cell. All it will do is protect your FC from the sun so you lose less. Don't raise CYA until after the SLAM is complete.
 
My test kit came and the tests yielded these numbers:
FC 14.5
CC 1.5
pH 7.7
TA 125 (10 mL sample)
CYA ~100 (how should I be reading this one? I could still see an faint impression of the black dot at 100, no more at 90)
I have vinyl so I didn't check CH, anything I missed? I assume I should drop my water and refill to get CYA down, balance pH then SLAM, then balance other levels?

Any recommendations/tips for dropping pool water? I can set my filter to waste or backwash but I'm hesitant to run it more than 5 min at a time (don't want to send all of my water through my new neighbors' yards)
 
I went out to drain this morning and my water was 1.5" lower than when I went to bed last night. The overnight temp was in the mid-60s (Fahrenheit) and while there was a breeze several of my jets were pointed up for aeration, I can't imagine that much evaporating off overnight. Do I have another problem? I noticed a small (6" tops) tear in the liner in the shallow end, could that be the problem?
 
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