New pool owner and completely clueless

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hauntedmansion138

hauntedmansion138

0
Jun 1, 2016
35
Weyers Cave, VA
I am a new owner of a Century pool 16x32 oval above ground 52" high pool.

Ive had it open since late Saturday and filter started late Sunday.

My pool is a Pristine Blue pool but I'm already confused and really want to go back to chlorine.

I have done what was told and just tested. pH is at 8.0 and TA at almost 120 ppm

i am supposed to go to the pool store for a test Saturday.

i am sure because of what I've read that I want chlorine.

ANY help, suggestions, etc would be appreciated. I want as much knowledge as possible.

P.S. is it even safe to swim in with the above numbers?
 
Right now, it would be best to read Pool School and get a good test kit that will have all of the tests that are needed to manage your own pool.

All you need for right now and possibly for a while is:
- a good test kit like the TF-100 @ TFTestkits.net
- Bleach
- Muratic Acid
- Pool Conditioner (also known as cyanuric acid or CYA)

Use Pool Math at the top menu to determine how much Muratic Acid to add to bring the PH down to recommended levels (found in Pool School) and Bleach to add to bring the Chlorine up. If you have not added any Chlorine yet, I would get some Bleach and add some as soon as possible based on Pool Math.

CYA should be a priority as well since without it, your Chlorine will dissipate fairly quickly from sun exposure. CYA is like sun screen for Chlorine.
 
The Textbook for what we teach.....read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. That'll get you sytarted and you'll have lot's of questions. We'll help every step of the way.
 
I have ordered the TF-100 kit and in the process of reading what you all are recommending.

Should I buy regular bleach? I am not seeing that so far in the references. Also, my copper levels seem to be, according the the PB test kit anyway, around .1 Should I worry about the copper levels in any of this so far?
 
Welcome to TFP!

It is safe to swim when
PH is 7.2 to 7.8
chlorine level is above minimum and below shock level for the CYA level in the pool based on the Chlorine CYA Chart
and the water is clear

Tell us what your CYA level is. If you don't have a test kit that measures it then +1 to ordering a TF100 from TFTestkits.net. I've been ordering mine there for years. If your pool is green then order the XL option.
 
My pool is crystal clear and the pump has been running 24/7 as per the guidance of the pool store and my contractor.

I know my PB level is almost non existent and we added whatever was given to reduce the PH. Last night it was closer to 7.8. I don't know what the other levels are just yet but the new kit is on its way from an email I received.

i hope yo get it Saturday. I'm doing my best to understand pool school, but sadly, it's kind of hard.

if I get liquid chlorine, but muratic acid and pool conditioner today, can I do it all the same day? I really want to go swimming.

Most importantly, I want a safe, clean swimming pool with a relatively low maintenance.
 
Good job on getting the good test kit ordered.

I am going to give you what I give new pool owners. I think it fits since you are new to TFP.

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry


Ask as many questions as you have. We KNOW it is a lot of info. Just take a bite at a time and let it settle before you take the next bite.

Kim
 

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Went to the pool store today to return all the Pristine Blue garbage. They swapped out for chlorine based stuff with no hassle.

Here are the pool water test results:
FC: no value
TC: no value
PH: 8.3
TA: 242
CH: 421
CYA: 6
Copper: .3
Iron: .1
Total dissolved solids: 350
Saturation index:1.8

We have had the pool since last Saturday. We got the filter up and running Sunday and added the Pristine Blue extra of 1Lb and then 24 hours later 20oz of PB. Other than trying to get the PH down with 3 lbs of sodium bisulfate (which were told would do nothing since the TA is so high and that was our water delivery), we have just left the filter running 24 hours a day since then. The water is still crystal clear. We didn't want to add anything make since we were switching to chlorine.

i was advised to turn the filter off for 4 hours and then at 4 corner points, add 2 1/2 gallons of MA slowly and leave the pump off for another 8 hours. I am reading more and more to add the MA at the returns slowly and brush down the sides and leave the pump running for a bit and that's fine. Correct?

since we won't be adding chemicals in the middle the night, first thing tomorrow morning we are going to be the next step they told us which is, add 1 1/2 pounds of shock (in a sock from what I am reading )one tablet in the skimmer of Coreen and 3 ounces of the algicide. Also, we were told add 2lbs of stabilizer and conditioner for CYA levels. We were told not to backwash for 3 days and do the latter chemicals once a week and test every few days.

Was any of this good advice? What should we do if not? My signature shows what we have for filter, etc. I am about to do the MA and want to add that we are ONLY using pucks until they are gone and do LC as I prefer that from what I've read in Pool School.
 
Last edited:
Been reading in between checking the pool. I am gaining a LOT of knowledge here.

just checked the levels. I don't have my new kit yet, just aqua check strips until Monday when the TF-100 arrives


TA is now at about 140-150
PH seems like it's around 7.0. I just made the return face upwards for aeration.

because I need to get chlorine up and CYA, especially in this sun here, I put a trichlor puck in the skimmer and 1lb shock in a sock in pool as well.

once levels rise, it's all about BBB.

If PH does not rise on it's own or readings still off when I get new kit, I will try Borax. Already have it here anyway. I just saw gallons of bleach in WalMart for $2.50 for 10.25 strength. Pretty good deal I'd say
 
The puck will most likely take too long to get the CYA up. You need to the use the granular CYA ( Shop Clorox Pool&Spa 4-lb Stabilizer Pool Balancer at Lowes.com ) to get it up at at least 30. In the mean time, you should be adding bleach daily based on Pool Math. I would add it in the evening so that at least it will have a chance to work through the night since the sun will disipate it quickly in the day until you have the CYA up.
 
I read about the pump being a bad idea off. I was planning on taking it out once things have balanced. Since its best right now with the addition of things to keep the pump on, it hopefully will be okay to keep the puck in.

i have powdered stabilizer as part of my exchange of chemicals. I will be sure to get it in there right away.

as for bleach, the shock won't help at all? I thought since there was nothing in here and I already have the chemicals, I'd use the shock. I still have 3 1lb bags left. If I should get the bleach and do that right now as well, then I will.
 
Just had a MASSIVE rainstorm that lasted almost two hours. Went out to test and check the shock sock. The water got so high that it's overflowing the skimmer. But, the shock has dissolved. Put a new sock that I rigged to get distributed through the return of stabilizer that is listed on bottle as 100% CYA. Based on pool math, I put about 32 oz to start and will see where it goes. Since there is CYA in the puck, I don't want to put too much.

i tested before the above and show the following:
7.5ph
.4 FC
170 TA which is lower than before....my read before above I read incorrectly
and a Level of CYA that is more than zero but not quite 30 (can't wait for the good test to arrive Monday)

things are on the rise. Headed to wal mart to buy some bleach and will keep an eye on levels and get that puck out tomorrow and start with the bleach.

Am I doing things right so far?
 

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