Confirm guidance on new pool pump electric

[dmax724]

Later this week, I am having a contractor replace my 1HP Hayward single speed pool pump with the following pump:

Pentair SuperFlo VS Energy Efficient Variable Speed Pool Pump | 1.5HP Single Phase 115-230V 50-60HZ | 342001
It's specifications are: Input Voltage 115-230 Vrms nominalInput Current 13.2/12.0-11.5 AInput Frequency Single phase, 50 or 60 Hz

Current electric service is 115v GFCI outlet on....60' 12/2 copper circuit on 15amp breaker.

The new pump will run on 115v but would like to get confirmation that it's smart to also upgrade the electric to:
230v locking outlet on.... new 60' 12/3 copper circuit run from GFCI breaker.....and based on specs above 15 or 20amp GFCI breaker????

Also the new motor has a clock/shutoff on it, so I guess I don't need the shutoff at outlet box anymore....but looking for any recommendations on outlet box to use...hoping it accepts the water tight electrical conduit.

 

[Isaac-1]

A quick read of the installation manual seems to show that this pump is smart enough to limit itself when it sees lower voltages to a point that would work with a standard 15 amp 115vac circuit, so you may loose some peak performance when connected to 115VAC. This is a unique situation for this model of pump as it senses voltage and adjusts output accordingly, this is not so with traditional pumps. Having said that I see nothing in your pool description that makes me think you would need that potential extra little bit of performance from this pump (no spa or water feature), and chances are you will be running it at much lower than its peak speed the vast majority of the time, otherwise why would you be investing in a VS pump, so there is no real reason to change out the electrical circuit.

 

[dmax724]

I agree...nothing special (only a single 20' skimmer', 30' main drain, and one return) so calculators show 1 HP is plenty.
My main trigger was electric company rebate and older pump.
The price point and option to run off 115v made this model attractive.....even though 1.5HP is overkill (where I agree no need to run at peak speeds, or if ever, for only short period).

This pump change out just made me pause on my existing electrical arrangement to make sure to code or be on edge of amperage....
Existing: normal (15amp/115v) breaker...serving a single GFCI outlet with on/off toggle switch plus weather cover....BUT pump has exposed cord with a non-locking plug (which I think strays from code).

Therefore, looking for the cleanest solution to tie in pump electric to the existing circuit....
- New pump has built in timer so no need for timer unit on wall....just to serve as an expensive junction box.
- Want to use liquid tight conduit but not finding outlet boxes that accommodate it...or then do not also accommodate outlet for new plug.
- Wondering if I should change out my breaker to a GFCI breaker....to then have a locking outlet option on far end?
- Trying to limit false start by contractor if I already had the parts.

 

[MitchRyan912]

You will need a 20 A GFCI breaker to be within code if using 110 v wiring. The most you can have "permanently connected" to a 15 A circuit breaker is a 12 A load, and the 13.2 A it can draw would go above that limit. If you rewire it to use 220 V, then you'll need at 15 A double pole GFCI breaker.

tl/dr: either way, you need a new breaker.

 

[dmax724]

Makes sense..with load having the "potential" to go to 13.2 (above the 80% rule of breaker)
Guessing will stay with 110 wiring and get 20A GFCI breaker.
Then gives me option to remove GFCI outlet but still drawing a blank on locking plug/socket option unless those 220v style locking plugs/sockets can also be wired to work on 110v.

 

[MitchRyan912]

If the pump's receptacle is >10' from the nearest point of the pool wall, you don't need the receptacle to be a locking connector. If it's within 6' to 10' of the pool, then you do need a locking connector.

Either way, the cord can't be longer than 3' long.

See NEC 2014, 680.22