Welcome to the forum.
despite having our local pool pros analyze the water and give us a regimen of chemicals and exact usage instructions
Our mindset here is to eschew having "local pros"...or anyone else for that matter...manage our pools, and instead take control of them ourselves. If you're simply looking for someone to tell you "Put Magic Chemical X in your pool, and it'll become clear" then I fear you won't find what you seek here.
IF, however, actually knowing what's happening in your pool, and controlling it, is the outcome you seek, then you're in the right place. Everything that follows below presumes you've made that choice, and are still reading.
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Biggest issue you're facing right now, imo, is not knowing what's going on in your pool. Cloudy water, despite various attempts to clarify it, could be any number of things, and it's going to be nigh on impossible for any of us to tell you what's happening until we see some test results. So, first piece of advice : Buy a
TF-100 Test Kit from TFTestkits. IMO, that's a "100% no excuses must do" thing before going any further.
While you're waiting for it to be delivered, head over to
Pool Shcool. There's a BUNCH of info to digest there, but I'd suggest you begin by focusing on 2 things :
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SLAM - Shock level and maintain. "Shock" isn't a product we buy, it's a process we go through. The goal is to raise Free Chlorine high enough to kill anything in our pool, and then
keep it there until we're sure it's dead. How do we know when that is?
* We perform an
OCLT - Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, and we examine the condition of our pool water.
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CYA - Cyanuric Acid. The above process is going to
depend heavily upon your CYA level. It will dictate the amount of chlorine, in the form of bleach or liquid pool chlorine (They're the same thing, just different concentrations) you'll need to introduce to your pool to raise the FC to a shock level.
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It is a near certainty that no matter what is currently going on with your pool, we're going to start there...we're going to bring the pool to shock levels of FC, and leave it there until we're sure there's nothing alive it in.
Everything above requires you to know several things (FC and CC levels, CYA levels, pH, and more) about your pool, and to be able to test them repeatedly, several times a day at first. In many cases, you'll want to know them to a precision or amount simply not available with plain old dip strips or common tests. The TF-100 contains everything you need to successfully SLAM your pool, and will likely have enough left over to maintain your pool for weeks or even months once we're in the home stretch.