Numbers Check

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WyattEarp

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Jun 28, 2015
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Mandeville, LA
After my new build and having the builder maintain the pool for the first month I have now had 'control' for the past couple of weeks. Currently running my pump 24/7 at about 1700 rpm which is pulling about 300 watts (Builder highly recommended running pump 24/7 at a low speed). Run the Polaris in the early mornings for 3 hours. Pool is crystal clear and clean. Still adjusting my salt system in order to bring free chlorine down to a target of around 5. Has beenn running at 40% just adjusted down to 35% so we shall see where that levels out. From my numbers it looks like TA is a bit high and CH is a bit low but don't really think I need to make any adjustments there since they are pretty close. Pool has been eating about 32oz of acid every 3 days. Water temp is currently 85. Any suggestions from the experts?

FC 9
CC 0
PH 7.5
TA 110
CH 225
CYA 70
 

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Other than letting your FC fall a little as you continue to adjust the SWG, not really. You're doing quite well. You know about the acid/aeration trick to lower TA right? So in time you can continue to do that as needed which should help with the pH rise a little. It won't eliminate it, but may help. Good work!

Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
 
You need to bring CH up to 350-450 since you have an SWG. I would not consider where you are "close enough".

I'm betting you can run your pump at 1700 RPM and only run 12 hours a day and still have perfect water. I run a lower RPM than that for 24 hours, but my pool is 44,000 gallons. My water looks great! Just be sure you adjust your SWG up accordingly.

You are going to keep eating acid until you get that TA down.
 
That's what it (Poolmath) is saying. However when I plug-in all of your numbers, your CSI is just barely under zero at about -0.18 which is not bad at all. By contrast if you had the same pH and TA with a CH of 350, you would be at a positive 0.05 - well below the potential for scale. So either way I think it's still quite manageable, just make sure to watch the "CSI" row on the calculator. I'm saying these things based on the health of your plaster. If your SWG has a specific CH requirement, then you may want to take note of that as well.

With summer approaching, if your fill water is real hard, you may want find it best to stay a little below and let the fill water make-up the difference in CH.
 
I track my CSI number daily. It changes a bit day to day depending on were PH is but over the past couple of weeks it swings a bit but never has it been more/less than+/-.25 which seems to be well within the 'good' range. This is the reason I have considered the CH and TA close enough. I'm working on lowering the TA to try and help a bit with acid demand but we shall see how much that helps considering brand new plaster and SWG create quite a bit of demand on their own.

My fill water is extremely soft. Test of water straight out of the faucet has CH at just about 0 (and no there is no water softener at the house).

Summer is HERE! At least in the deep south.
 
I remember that north shore soft water when I lived in metry! Even more reason to raise Ch To 350 because it won't increase on its own much. Good job watching that CSI! Raising CH will give you more room for error.

We have a ton of trees too. During busy tree season I run the pump 14 to 24 hours a day to keep the stuff skimmed. At 150 watts and 10.25c/kWh I can run my pump 24x7 for 12 bucks a month.
 
OK just coming off a slam and chlorine and pH are still pretty high should I wait until chlorine drops to add acid or try to get the pH down and just let the fc Drop on its own using SWG water is pretty clear and here are my numbers
FC 11
PH 8.2
CC 0
CYA 70
TA 100
Salt 3900
SWG set at 25% dropping to 10%
CH 250
 

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