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Thread: still dirty

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    still dirty

    I have my pool almost clear, its still cloudy but I can see the bottom. I am running the DE filter 24 hours. I have filter socks. I just vacuumed an hour or so ago and I am seeing debris on the bottom. The pump runs at about 15 psi. If I back wash, it goes down to about 11 then right back up. I just swept it to get the debris off the bottom so the filter can get it. The chemicals are all good. Will this just take time to get clean or am I missing something?

    Thanks!
    Gunnite IG , DE FNSP36, FR90, 14000 gal.

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: still dirty

    If your chemical levels are indeed in-line as noted on the TFP "Recommended Levels" chart (link below) and you tested with a TFP-recommended test kit (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006), then it may in-fact just be a filtering issue. Would you like to post those test results for us to review?
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
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    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: still dirty

    How are you testing? Can you provide us with current -
    FC
    CC
    pH
    TA
    CH
    CYA

    If the water is cloudy you could have dead algae or something still growing in there. How are you chlorinating?
    My Amazon Smile for November12K Fiberglass IG, Infinity 4000 automatic cover, SWCG, Hayward Sand Filter, Hayward 1.5 Pump, Doheny Discovery Robot, Savi Melody LED pool lights, outdoor speakers and other assorted doo-dads. Sundance Altamar Hot Tub.
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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: still dirty

    I'll add that if you also pass the OCLT then you just need to give it time to clear. Here's how, Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
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    Re: still dirty

    Free Chlorine. 4
    Total avail chlorine 4
    Calcium hard 270
    Cyanuric Acid 60
    Alkalinity 90
    PH 7.5
    Copper 0
    Iron 0
    Phosphates 300 High


    I had Leslie pool do it to make sure I was on track or not
    Gunnite IG , DE FNSP36, FR90, 14000 gal.

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    Re: still dirty

    Quote Originally Posted by pooldv View Post
    I'll add that if you also pass the OCLT then you just need to give it time to clear. Here's how, Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
    Ok, Ill do this to see
    Gunnite IG , DE FNSP36, FR90, 14000 gal.

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: still dirty

    With CYA at 60 and FC at 4 you are below minimum chlorine level, Chlorine CYA Chart. This leaves the pool unsanitary and algae can grow. FC needs to be above minimum at all times.
    TFP Moderator
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    Re: still dirty

    Quote Originally Posted by pooldv View Post
    With CYA at 60 and FC at 4 you are below minimum chlorine level, Chlorine CYA Chart. This leaves the pool unsanitary and algae can grow. FC needs to be above minimum at all times.
    Ok, thanks !
    Gunnite IG , DE FNSP36, FR90, 14000 gal.

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    PAGirl's Avatar
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    Re: still dirty

    Quote Originally Posted by dyipoolmom View Post
    Free Chlorine. 4
    Total avail chlorine 4
    Calcium hard 270
    Cyanuric Acid 60
    Alkalinity 90
    PH 7.5
    Copper 0
    Iron 0
    Phosphates 300 High


    I had Leslie pool do it to make sure I was on track or not
    What type of testing kit do you normally use?
    26' X 52" Intex Ultra Frame. Intex Sand Filter
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    Re: still dirty

    Make sure that you backwash whenever your filter pressure reaches 14. DE filter clogs quickly whenever they are clearing algae (dead or alive). This means babysitting your pool at first. As time progresses, you will be able to go longer in between backwashes.
    Karen
    33K IG w spa plaster, Pentair 1HP Whisperflo, DE Filter, SWG CircuPool RJ-60, Dolphin Triton Plus, Raypak Dig 336K BTU, TF-100.
    Pool Math Chlorine / CYA Chart SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
    2017 replaster/retile

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    Re: still dirty

    Quote Originally Posted by PAGirl View Post
    What type of testing kit do you normally use?
    I have the larger kit, sorry, dont remember but it was the kit recommended here, but the results are from Leslie pool.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by kcindc View Post
    Make sure that you backwash whenever your filter pressure reaches 14. DE filter clogs quickly whenever they are clearing algae (dead or alive). This means babysitting your pool at first. As time progresses, you will be able to go longer in between backwashes.
    Ok, thats what I thought. Now for the stupid question, add DE after every Back wash, right? One or two scoops? One of my Local pool shops said two?
    Gunnite IG , DE FNSP36, FR90, 14000 gal.

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: still dirty

    It's very important you use your own test kit (TF-100). That's the best kit on the market (IMO) and the numbers revealed don't lie when accomplished correctly. The kit instructions are normally user-friendly, but sometimes pool owners get a little confused by the results. So if you ever have a problem using your test kit, just let us know and we'll help you. We'd rather do that then see you waste your time/gas at the pool store.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

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    Re: still dirty

    Quote Originally Posted by Texas Splash View Post
    It's very important you use your own test kit (TF-100). That's the best kit on the market (IMO) and the numbers revealed don't lie when accomplished correctly. The kit instructions are normally user-friendly, but sometimes pool owners get a little confused by the results. So if you ever have a problem using your test kit, just let us know and we'll help you. We'd rather do that then see you waste your time/gas at the pool store.
    I usually do use my own kit but I had to go there anyway so I figured id have them check. I didnt do the night chlorine check, but you guys said I was low anyway so Ill get more today and put it in.

    Thanks !
    Gunnite IG , DE FNSP36, FR90, 14000 gal.

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    Re: still dirty

    Please post up a full set of results using your own test kit.

    Here is an article on backwashing your DE filter and how much DE to add. Read this and ask any questions that you still have: Pool School - Maintenance and Cleaning of Pool Filters

    Since your water is cloudy, your FC was too low and you are backwashing so often, I wouldn't bother with the OCLT. You should SLAM your pool. Read up on SLAMing here and post any questions you have. The key is to test and add chlorine several times a day at first... that is the Maintain part of the SLAM: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
    Karen
    33K IG w spa plaster, Pentair 1HP Whisperflo, DE Filter, SWG CircuPool RJ-60, Dolphin Triton Plus, Raypak Dig 336K BTU, TF-100.
    Pool Math Chlorine / CYA Chart SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
    2017 replaster/retile

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    Re: still dirty

    You have not yet passed a SLAM, and as others have said, your Chlorine level is too low for your CYA.

    I suggest a SLAM, brush, and a couple good vacuumings. Ensure that you pass all three tests (OCLT, CC<=0.5, and Clear water), all the while testing with your TF-100. If the water does not clear up in a couple days, it may be a filter issue, but rule out low chlorine first.
    Chris
    17' x 35' outdoor in-ground Grecian shaped w/ vinyl liner. ≈ 21,000 gallons. Hayward S-200 Sand Filter and 1 HP Hayward Super-pump. Other Accessories: slide, light, ladder, fiberglass stairs, TF-100. Baquacil Conversion - June 2015, SLAM How-to, Chlorine/CYA Chart

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    Re: still dirty

    Thank you all !!!!!!!!!!!!! You are such great help !
    Gunnite IG , DE FNSP36, FR90, 14000 gal.

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