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Thread: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

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    scomea's Avatar
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    New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Hello all,
    This is my first post so thanks for taking the time to read it and offer advise. I bought a house with a 16,000 gal, SWG, VSP pump and have been lurking around this site for a week. This was a divorce and the pool was poorly maintained for 9 months because Mr. Hubby was booted from the property. First things first, I ordered and received my TFTestkit XL arrived and the results indicate the water is out of whack.

    CYA 105
    TC .8
    FC .8
    pH 7.5 (surprise)
    TA 74
    CH 197
    Salt 2900

    Pool Math says I need to replace 33% of the water due to high CYA and add other chemicals later.
    My question is: After I replace the water, do I tune up the salt, TC, pH, TA and CH in that order. Is it better to dump all Pool Math recommended chemicals in at one time or maybe add them over 3-4 days to let the percolate. And how often should I test during the healing period?

    Thanks
    16,500 gallon Pebble-Tec pool w/spa, SWG Aquarite T-15, Intelliflo VS, Pentair pressure pump, iAquaLink, Hayward 6020 DE filter, Hayward 40000K BTUH heater, Polaris 280, surrounded by oak trees and copperhead snakes, TFT Test kit, Taylor K-1766 Salt Test, LaMotte Borate test strips, Taylor Speed-Stir, Pool Math

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    Jezza's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Welcome to TFP!

    Your first 2 priorities should be to drain the pool to get the CYA down and get some chlorine in as well - it is way too low for your high CYA level. How does the water look?

    Also just use the 10ml sample for the FC and count each drop as 0.5. It will save your reagents. We also need a CC number with your other numbers
    11 000 gallons, IG, Fibreglass, Monarch Sand Filter, Davey Typhoon C100M 1HP pump, Davey Chloromatic Mc16CTO ESR SWG, Davey Pool Wall Climba Robot, Daisy Solar Cover,
    K-2006

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Welcome!

    What you do first sort of depends on how the water looks. After you replace water, it needs some time to mix and then you retest. Where'd you get 105 CYA? Take a closer look at that CYA view tube. The graduations aren't equidistant. What looks like 105 may well be 120 or 150. Before you start draining, double-check that reading using the dilution method. Fill the CYA mixing bottle to the lower line with pool water, then to the upper with tap water and mix. Then dump out half and proceed with the test as normal. Then double your result. Alternately, borrow a measuring cup from the kitchen and mix half pool and half tap and then pour from that into the mixing bottle. It might be easier to end up at the right level that way.

    Anyway.... moving on to your question....

    You've drained whatever and now your CYA is at a workable 50 or 60 or whatever. The pump has been on and you've brushed around to really ensure its blended and you've got test results. Is the water clear? Are there algae patches? Do you plan to SLAM the pool? These variables all affect what comes next.

    If pH is low, how's TA? If TA is below 50, boost that a little, give it an hour to mix, then raise pH. If pH is high, lower it with acid.

    Next up is FC. If SLAMming, how much is different than just raising it to normal. If CH is low, you could use some Cal-hypo to raise CH as you chlorinate.

    Once the pool is all clear, CYA is where you want, pH is in range, pool holds chlorine and has some, then you add salt and let the SWG take over. There's no point adding salt if you're going to SLAM and end up backwashing a bunch of it away as the filter loads up.

    And after all that typing, we're back to retest after refilling and post up results and ask for advice again. There's too many ifs and buts to say so far in advance. Time frame? Depends on water clarity and algae. An hour after refilling and mixing you can start testing and treating. If all you're dealing with are adjusting chemicals, it can all be fixed up in a day. And most of that is waiting for salt to dissolve. Your CYA is already there, so no waiting for it to dissolve, and the rest can be added one after another spaced thirty minutes apart. Salt comes last and usually gets 24 hours to fully dissolve and disperse.

    If algae, minimum is probably three days, really bad cases can drag on for a week or more.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Welcome to TFP! You can add the salt at any time now. Once you get that CYA back down to something more manageable, what to do next depends on the condition of the water. If it is cloudy or show any signs of algae, then go this route:
    - Lower pH to 7.2
    - Increase FC to SLAM level based on your new CYA and keep it there 24/7 until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria. I would leave the SWG off for the SLAM and use just plain/regular Bravo (HEB) or Great Value (Wal-Mart) bleach.

    If your water is clear, then go this route:
    - Increase FC right away to your new target zone based on your new CYA (see Chlorine/CYA Chart link below).
    - Your CH is a bit low (min 350). I would increase at least close to 300 and let your hard fill water make-up the other 50. Or you can just increase to 350 now. Increasng CH can sometimes make the water a bit cloudy for a day or two, then it should go away.

    If you have any more questions, just let us know.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
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    cowboycasey's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Welcome to TFP

    How does the water look? If green you will need to SLAM and that can take a truckload of liquid chlorine..

    You need to make a decision on CYA, we recommend 70 to 80 CYA for a SWG pool but that will require a SLAM free chlorine of 31, this is probably your best option.

    the other option is to take your CYA down to 30 and your SLAM FC would be 12 (less bleach) but then afterward you would have to add CYA back to 70, this option you would have to empty 70% or so of your water...

    let us know
    Pool: Intex 16x32 15000 gal, 2 speed 340042, Pentair CC320 Filter, CircuPool SJ45 Salt System, Intermatic PE653RC; Hot Tub: 650 Gal SWG Megachlor
    links: pool school * Recommended-Levels * SLAM * CYA chart * Test kits * How To Post Pictures * Poolmath * OCLT ** Support your website if we helped you :) **

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    scomea's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Thanks for the feedback. The water is clear and draining 35% of 16,000 gallons now (pool math) to achieve CYA of 65 now.

    Tap, tap, tap...
    16,500 gallon Pebble-Tec pool w/spa, SWG Aquarite T-15, Intelliflo VS, Pentair pressure pump, iAquaLink, Hayward 6020 DE filter, Hayward 40000K BTUH heater, Polaris 280, surrounded by oak trees and copperhead snakes, TFT Test kit, Taylor K-1766 Salt Test, LaMotte Borate test strips, Taylor Speed-Stir, Pool Math

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    cowboycasey's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    You are welcome and thanks for donating, your donation helps keep the light on

    after your drain and refill do another test and post your numbers back here so we can see where to go
    Pool: Intex 16x32 15000 gal, 2 speed 340042, Pentair CC320 Filter, CircuPool SJ45 Salt System, Intermatic PE653RC; Hot Tub: 650 Gal SWG Megachlor
    links: pool school * Recommended-Levels * SLAM * CYA chart * Test kits * How To Post Pictures * Poolmath * OCLT ** Support your website if we helped you :) **

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    scomea's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    The pool is refilled and tested using the TF-100. Here are the results:
    FC .5
    pH 8
    TA 120
    CH 250
    CYA 35 (tested twice)
    Salt 3100

    I put the numbers in the calculator and am correcting the pH now. Should I adjust the CYA before the FC? And should I use liquid stabilizer?
    16,500 gallon Pebble-Tec pool w/spa, SWG Aquarite T-15, Intelliflo VS, Pentair pressure pump, iAquaLink, Hayward 6020 DE filter, Hayward 40000K BTUH heater, Polaris 280, surrounded by oak trees and copperhead snakes, TFT Test kit, Taylor K-1766 Salt Test, LaMotte Borate test strips, Taylor Speed-Stir, Pool Math

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Quote Originally Posted by scomea View Post
    The pool is refilled and tested using the TF-100. Here are the results:
    FC .5
    pH 8
    TA 120
    CH 250
    CYA 35 (tested twice)
    Salt 3100

    I put the numbers in the calculator and am correcting the pH now. Should I adjust the CYA before the FC? And should I use liquid stabilizer?
    No need to wait to get some bleach in there. If you intend to shock, even if just overnight for peace of mind, 35 CYA makes it a lot easier.

    Fix pH as you're doing. Raise FC. Then if you don't intend to SLAM, add CYA granules. No need to buy the expensive liquid. You're not totally unprotected and the granules dissolve pretty fast anyway. If there's any leftover trichlor or dichlor left behind, you can use that to raise CYA along with the FC.

    Good job so far!
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    You need chlorine badly

    12 x 26 Viking FG IG, Bermuda Model, 3 1/2' to 5', 7000 Gallons, Diamond Series Maya, Hayward 1 1/2 HP Maxflo VS, Hayward Stay Clear Plus Cart Filter C17502(S), Hayward Aqua Rite SWG w/T3 cell, Color Changing FIBERSTAR Lighting, Aqua Bot Supreme Robotic cleaner, Brushed Concrete with CCI Liberty Tan color, Taylor K-2006 test kit, Armor Foundation penetrating concrete sealer(lifetime warranty).

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    Re: New pool owner-Pool outta whack

    Iam still fairly new. But imo...i would start adding bleach and adjusting the cya level slowly to get to your target level. Adjusting the fc as you go. Dont over adjust the cya. Then tackle the high ph.

    12 x 26 Viking FG IG, Bermuda Model, 3 1/2' to 5', 7000 Gallons, Diamond Series Maya, Hayward 1 1/2 HP Maxflo VS, Hayward Stay Clear Plus Cart Filter C17502(S), Hayward Aqua Rite SWG w/T3 cell, Color Changing FIBERSTAR Lighting, Aqua Bot Supreme Robotic cleaner, Brushed Concrete with CCI Liberty Tan color, Taylor K-2006 test kit, Armor Foundation penetrating concrete sealer(lifetime warranty).

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