I probably know the answer to this before I post. "Needs to be slammed" I'm having a problem with my water this year, other years also for that matter. I have the TF100 test kit. If the Cl level gets to 5 or below I get a cloudy water situation. Not green, just cloudy. I have a Jandy 1400 swg that is working but I have been supplementing with Cl as needed since dealing with all our oak droppings for the last 4 months. A few weeks back when the majority of the catkins were done falling, I ran the Cl to between 20-25pm for about 3-4 days and let it drop back down and water was of course crystal clear after. At the time I had CYA around 30 or less, so I figure that was even over kill. I have since got the CYA level to 70. Total alk is 110-120, Calcium Hardness 250, pH 7.4-7.6, Temp about 80, This am's FC was 4ppm with no CC. and the water is getting cloudy. I've fought mustard algae in the past but am puzzled if that is what it is now, since my readings consistently have no CC levels. If I do pop the Cl level up another 5ppm the water will clear. It has also been brushed 2-3 times weekly as well as vacuumed the same by hand. Filter is a 340 sq ft, 4 cartridge unit and I just put new ones in after the oak season was over. I'm assuming will have to do a slam and see where it settles out. I have not done an overnight chlorine test, guess that might be in order also. I know it's pooh poohed here treating for phosphates but I did that about 3 weeks ago with a commercial product since my levels were over 2000K and I have a very heavy organic load in this unscreened pool. I've read of some folks with similar problems that have been able to maintain clear water much more easily afterwards. If I can believe the pool store, my levels are now about 100. Any thoughts, other than do another slam. thanks in advance to all you knowledgeable folks.
cloudy water
- Thread starter keastman
- Start date
Actually, I won't say SLAM. You need to run the overnight chlorine loss test.
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
You're running your FC a bit low for CYA of 70. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
You should be targeting 5ppm, never to drop below 3-EVER! So if your pool loses 2ppm of FC per day, your ideal daily FC is going to be 7. Soooo when the 2ppm disappear you'll be at 5. Capisce?
You should be targeting 5ppm, never to drop below 3-EVER! So if your pool loses 2ppm of FC per day, your ideal daily FC is going to be 7. Soooo when the 2ppm disappear you'll be at 5. Capisce?
Thanks for the quick relies. I'm doing the overnight test tonight. Assuming it's normal, then I should just bump up the Chlorine level in the 5-7 range and not slam. One more topic. Opinions on SWG runing daytime or night time? I run my pump at 1200 rpm about 18 hours a day and the SWG from 4pm -12am with a 5 minute period at 2500 rpm every hour to flush the hydrogen bubbles from the line. Opinions on better to run SWG during the day or night. Thanks Again
If you pass the OCLT, then yes, bump your FC up to the higher range.
Are you interested in cutting back electricity costs? You don't need to run the pump so long.....unless you *want to* ? I have no experience with variable speed pumps so can't comment there.
Anytime you add chlorine during the night the FC can do its thing without any interference from the sun's UV rays. Conversely adding in the day time assures you have it there when the sun's UV rays are beating down on the pool. So basically.....your call.
Are you interested in cutting back electricity costs? You don't need to run the pump so long.....unless you *want to* ? I have no experience with variable speed pumps so can't comment there.
Anytime you add chlorine during the night the FC can do its thing without any interference from the sun's UV rays. Conversely adding in the day time assures you have it there when the sun's UV rays are beating down on the pool. So basically.....your call.
OK, my over night test was borderline 1-2 ppm cl loss. I tried bumping chlorine up to 8 and the pool didn't cear do I did a slam. I targeted 25-28ppm. The first day or two I was having to add a gallon or more daily to keep it above 20, the last 24 hours it has held at 26-27 and the water is sparkling. So I'm now letting it drift back down and hoping it is/was not mustard algae causing the cloudiness or I'll be doing it all over again soon. I have a couple of questions.
1. is there anything you can add to bring cl down to safe swim levels sooner?
2. Does high chlorine levels deplete or burn off CYA, or affect the accuracy of the CYA test. If I recall it affects the pH testing. I was in the 60-70 range for CYA prior to the slam, now the test is showing 45-50. I know it's subjective to some degree but I've also seen this same thing happen in previous years after raising chlorine levels in to the 20 range to treat algae or organic debris from the oak catkins.
Thanks, Kevin
1. is there anything you can add to bring cl down to safe swim levels sooner?
2. Does high chlorine levels deplete or burn off CYA, or affect the accuracy of the CYA test. If I recall it affects the pH testing. I was in the 60-70 range for CYA prior to the slam, now the test is showing 45-50. I know it's subjective to some degree but I've also seen this same thing happen in previous years after raising chlorine levels in to the 20 range to treat algae or organic debris from the oak catkins.
Thanks, Kevin
It is safe to swim with FC up to shock level for your CYA, Chlorine CYA Chart
Hydrogen peroxide lowers FC but I don't recall the ratio.
CYA does get consumed in the pool, but only at a rate of 3-5 ppm per month normally.
Hydrogen peroxide lowers FC but I don't recall the ratio.
CYA does get consumed in the pool, but only at a rate of 3-5 ppm per month normally.