Hayward SWG Panel All LEDs Off (Despite New Parts)

[enthuse]

Hi all,

First I just want to thank everyone who reads this, it's great to have such a dedicated community helping with these issues!

Here's my story:
I reopen my pool for the end of spring/beginning of summer, and notice my Hayward panel/box doesn't have a single LED on. The display gives me my salt ppm reading (2800), but no LEDs are illuminated. I have a Hayward T-Cell-15 installed. Long story short, here's what's going on.

No Flow LED blinks red for a little bit before turning off, then the Generating light turns on (solid green) for 10ish seconds, then it turns off. All LEDs are off. I've seen videos about replacing the current-limiter, which I've ordered and am waiting for, but here's the real kicker. I actually bought a brand new Hayward circuit board AND a brand new T-Cell-15 and installed them both, to no avail. Even changed out that little flow sensor with the phone-jack connector with a brand new part, everything is still as broken as it used to be.

What are my options here? Is it likely that the new panel is also broken? I'm really hoping that soldering a new current limiter on my old board will fix everything, and that the problem doesn't lie somewhere deeper and more expensive to fix... Any feedback is much appreciated! Thanks everyone.

 

[ping]

Welcome to TFP!

InyoPools has a good troubleshooting guide that you can follow that should determine what is wrong with the system, https://www.inyopools.com/manuals/1789/aquarite-troubleshooting-guide.pdf.

It could be several things causing your SWG not to work and you need to take some voltage readings on the board to determine which part is not working. I have a feeling it is the transformer as that is the part that hasn't been replaced yet.

 

[enthuse]

Thank you for replying, ping! I'll make sure to check the resistance between the wires in the transformer like the link suggests and I'll report back later tonight. I really appreciate the help!

 

[enthuse]

Hi all,

First off, thank you so much for your help, ping. The resistances measured in the transformer were higher than the range in the guide you sent, so that was the problem. I actually ended up (long story short) getting a brand new box and installing it. However, the problems haven't stopped...

So I didn't read the instructions that came with the new box and assumed it was already set up for 120VAC. Turns out, the little connectors are set up for 240VAC by default, so when I hooked things back up, it wasn't working again. I called a pool repairman/technician to come look at my system, and he noticed the 240VAC connection and switched it around to set it to 120VAC. However, as soon as this happened, my pump (Hayward EcoStar) stopped working. The repairman said that he had to "reset" the pump after changing the voltage on the box, but didn't know how, and I didn't have the manual for the pump handy. He left and said he will come back after the weekend, but now my pump doesn't work!

The screen on the pump turns on and tells me that it should be running at 1800RPM (the speed I set it to), but the pump sits motionless. The "Check System" light is NOT on, either. When I went into the diagnostics menu, I noticed that it said the serial number was 0, there was 0 W of power, 0 A current, and the drive revision was 0. Some quick googling tells me that something may have burned out and needs replacing, but I'm still curious as to what "resetting" the pump means... (I will note, however, that I wasn't home during the repairman's visit; my wife spoke to him and this is what she's telling me). I also looked at the event list, and it said that the pump could not prime 4 power cycles ago, and that there was low AC voltage around 12 power cycles ago.

(Should I make this reply its own post on this forum?) If there's anything I can do to get my pump back up and running ASAP, please let me know! Or if you would like more information, please let me know and I will post it as promptly as I can. Thanks for all the help, hope we can resolve this...