Welcome!
Finally, someone who has got me beat. I feel like such a slacker at 1000.
Yes, you do need to deal with the high CH. If you plug your numbers into poolmath, you'll see that the CSI is above .6. What that means is that you're going to start growing Calcium scale, if you haven't already. If you're unsure what that is, it starts out as grey or tan rough blotches and will eventually end up as grow-your-own sandpaper that will cause roadrash on any elbows, knees, shoulders, or ankles that scrape against it.
One warning, though: your CH test may not be accurate. My CH dropped from 700 to 500 just by using a speedstir when I tested. The CH test takes a long time and a lot of swirling when the numbers get up there, and it's human nature to just add more drops rather than wait for the reaction.
But even if you're only at 1000, it's too high. You have to be obsessive with managing pH and TA to keep the CSI in the neutral zone.
There are really only two solutions. 1) Drain and replace some water 2) Spend some big ducats and have reverse osmosis done. Replacement is still cheaper, unless your particular water company is levying huge penalties.
I periodically use pool water on the lawn and then replenish with what I didn't use for irrigation. It's a slow process and a real PITA, but it beats a massive water bill and menacing letters from the water company. In my case, 3" is 5% of my pool volume. So you can see how even a small partial change could have immediate effects. If you replaced 5%, your CH would go down by 75 ppm. That's three fewer drops of R-0012. You'll notice that when you test.
One final pointer: the TF100 uses Taylor reagents. So you can buy more R-0012 at the local pool store when you run out. That one is usually stocked.