Trichlor for at least a year with new pool

[IrwinK]

While I'm going through the endless wait for my pool to be completed I've been considering what form of chlorine to use.

My tentative decision is to use Trichlor tablets even with the eventual CYA problems. However I will test with TF-100 and provide results here for reevaluation. I will avoid the pool stores.

My previous pool went 7 yrs before selling the house in 2000 with Trichlor and no problems.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/113902-My-Previous-Pool-Alarming-Thoughts

Here is some more background for my decision:

1. PB has installed inline chlorinator and is prepared to start up with that.

2. I eventually want to go SWG but can't arrive at a choice of system and I don't even want to ask PB how much to install.

3. I don't want shop for liquid chlorine every week, but will get as needed and to keep chlorinator on lowest setting.

4. If I have to drain pool the cost of 15,000 gallons of water is about $100, but shouldn't have to do much draining for at least 6 months as rainy season will be here.

5. Chlorine load will be low with screened pool and screen material is 17x20 Twitchell Superscreen.


Initial Concerns:

PB will probably just fill the chlorinator with some pucks turn it up high and initial CYA will be 0. For my size pool it will add 2.2 ppm CYA for each 8 oz. tablet so 1st week maybe CYA 5 second week total CYA 10.
Can I get by with such low initial CYA without adding additional stabilizer?

 

[RobbieH]

You can for a couple of reasons:
1. You are maintaining the proper FC for the low CYA. With a screened pool area, your usage will be much lower due to low UV.
2. You will be passing the pool water over a highly chlorinated environment as you pass them over the tablets.

You can install a SWG yourself if you are any good at gluing PVC.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Folks in Florida can get away with using more pucks because of how much rain you get. Each time you have to lower the pool level and it rains to refill it, you are lowering that CYA level.

Most important is to know your water, and the testing will keep you appraised of the situation.

With all those fountains, bubblers and other aerating do-dads you're putting in, you'll need to be monitoring your pH more than most I reckon?

 

[IrwinK]

Yippee - Didn't know about the aeration doo-dads affecting PH until I started reading more TFP. Should have read before signing contract with PB. But probably would have ordered them anyway.
4 Deck Jets and 3 Sheer Decent Waterfalls are controlled by Remote so can be turned on only occasionally to show off.
I had wanted the 2 Bubblers to be on the Feature Pump too but PB put them on the Circulation Pump so I will have to go out to the Equipment Pad to adjust or shut them off unless I get another Valve Actuator later.
If I am using Trichlor I should have the advantage of it lowering PH which will also help with the new plaster that affects PH.

Robbie - After I get everything settled in about a year I will probably install a SWG myself. The one with the high output and full warranty for DIY is the CircuPool. Do you have the new model RJ 60 Plus? Your Sig says RG 60 Plus. I have posted questions about CircuPool and CompuPool but unsure about them and that is one of the reasons I am going to wait.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

You won't want to turn off any water feature entirely because you want to run chlorinated water thru them at least some daily. Otherwise the water sitting in the line will be stagnant.

 

[IrwinK]

I'll set the feature pump timer for an hour a day. If I want more can use the remote.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Good plan, Irwin

We'd love to see pics of your pool's progress too... <hint-hint-nudge-nudge>

 

[IrwinK]

Link to my pool build progress (with pics) in my Signature.

Waiting on Pavers. Nothing done since Brick Coping finally finished Monday.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/113306-New-Pool-Orlando-Florida

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Link to my pool build progress (with pics) in my Signature.

Waiting on Pavers. Nothing done since Brick Coping finally finished Monday.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/113306-New-Pool-Orlando-Florida

Oh that is a nice looking pool! I especially like the clean, organized look of the coping bricks.

 

[IrwinK]

Over the year if I let CYA build up to 70 or 80 max I should be at a level ready for SWG

From SWG Pools Chart

CYA (Stabilizer)	Minimum FC	Target FC	Shock FC
	​
70 ​	3​	5​	28​
80​	4​	6​	31​

Do you think I could stay with the FC levels for SWG even though not installed?

I not sure why for SWG pools with CYA 80 FC is 4 to 6
But for non-SWG Pools FC needs to be 6 to 9
Shock FC Level is the same 31 for both

I'm thinking it's because of the strength of chlorine going through the SWG Cell.

But likewise there is a high level of chlorine going through the Inline Chlorinator.

 

[IrwinK]

Here's a quote from an old 2007 thread posted by a guest (guests were allowed to post back then?):

"....FC between 3-5 ppm makes the pool virtually trouble free in regards to needed shocking because of CC or in reguard to algae breakouts. This is still lower than the recommened FC level for a manually chlorinated pool with the same 60-80 ppm CYA! No one is able to really explan this but it is suspected that is is caused by the constant 'supershocking' of the pool water as it flows thorough the cell in it's on state."

Won't the Trichlor going through the Inline Clorinator do the same 'supershocking' and let me use same (4-6 per latest SWG chart).