Elevated CYA and Algae

[hubs99]

I recently purchased a house with a pool and trying to open it for the summer.

It has algae, elevated CYA of right between 80-100 and elevated Phosphates. I bought Poly 60%, phosfree, and dropped water in the pool by almost half for the CYA.

So what do I do first?

1. Fill it first. Then add the Phosfree and Poly 60% and Shock?
2. Phosfree & Poly60 First, then fill, then shock?
3. Other?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[woodyp]

3> OTHER! You need to order one of our recommended test kits and take control of the beast. Phosfree= waste of money. Poly= waste of money, will not CLEAR algae. We don't SHOCK anything. Return that stuff if you can and invest in liquid bleach. We SLAM it! Please give us all your pool parameters in a signature line in your profile. Than read Pool School ABCs and how to SLAM your pool and what is required. Welcome.

 

[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP!

Background
Pool School - Defeating Algae

Short version
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Long version of how to get rid of algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

What we need in a signature to better help you, Pool School - Read This Before You Post

 

[hubs99]

All other parameters are in order. I'll get you the exact readings tonight but pH, Ca, TA are all in normal range. I presume I do have to replace half the water to get the CYA into a range so that the SLAM will work?

So do I -
1. SLAM with the elevated CYA(80-100) in 15k gallons
2. SLAM with in line CYA (40-50) in a 30k pool

 

[kcindc]

Welcome to TFP! The methods here are the most economical way to clear your water and keep it clear all season long. There is a lot of information overload at the beginning, but it will sink in and you will be a TFP pool snob soon

Just keep reading and asking questions.

Agree with others. Return what you bought if possible. Order one of the recommended test kits, the TF-100 XL is the most economical option when you need to SLAM.

Link to the most economical kit:
TFTestkits.net

Once you get one of the recommended kits, post up a full set of results. The upper limits of the CYA is 100, if you are above 100, you should dilute 50% pool water with 50% tap water.

In the mean time, go buy a bunch of plain bleach (no splashless, no outdoor, no scented), plain Wal-Mart brand bleach is generally easy to find and economical. Once you fill in your signature with your pool details so we can tell you how much bleach to add each day while waiting for your test kit.

 

[Richard320]

You'll be happier in the long run with lower CYA. That means some water replacement.

You don't want to add Phos-free to a green pool. Even the manufacturer warns against it, but the pool store clerks only see dollar signs, so they push it. What happens is you end up with thousands of gallons of water that looks like milk. It should only be added to an algae-free pool.

You don't want to add algaecide now, either. It's a preventative, not a cure. It's like putting SPF30 on a beet-red sunburn. It doesn't relieve the pain, and in fact, rubbing it on only increases the suffering. The time for algaecide was at the end of last season, so you wouldn't open to a green pool.

So if your pool is already half empty, fill it up and get it circulating at least half an hour and brush the thing so you get things mixed even in the dead spots. Then test it all. If CYA is still too high for your liking, drain some more. If you have the ability to vacuum to waste, that's a good way to remove water and sludge simultaneously. That depends on your equipment. Please fill out your signature so we can stop speculating and give answers tailored to you.

Once you know the CYA level and have the pH in range, you bleach the algae into submission. We call that the SLAM Process. It's like a pol store shock, only under control and sustained long enough to actually work.

Here's a few links. Look at the pictures. Read a little. Do what they did.

 

[hubs99]

Thanks everyone. I'll follow up with more technical details of the hardware tonight.

 

[hubs99]

Ok,
ph - 7.6
Fr Chlo - 0
TA - 100
CYA - 90

I've drained somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 half of the 30k pool.

So do I
Slam now, then refill?
or
refill then slam?

 

[Richard320]

Ok,
ph - 7.6
Fr Chlo - 0
TA - 100
CYA - 90

I've drained somewhere between 1/3 to 1/2 half of the 30k pool.

So do I
Slam now, then refill?
or
refill then slam?

Refill. You must have good circulation to SLAM, and that won't happen with low water.

 

[hubs99]

Thanks Richard. I'll keep you posted on the progress.

 

[hubs99]

Update - Shocked with 8.25%, and went up to low 20's. FC is down into the 3ppm range but the pool is still very cloudy.

Should I reshock tonight or wait for the OCLT in the morning?

 

[Richard320]

Update - Shocked with 8.25%, and went up to low 20's. FC is down into the 3ppm range but the pool is still very cloudy.

Should I reshock tonight or wait for the OCLT in the morning?

Keep the pool at shock level until it passes the overnight loss test AND CC is .5 or less AND the water is clear, even after brushing. That's the M in SLAM Process. Shock Level And Maintain. The Pool store will tell you to blast the pool with chlorine and forget it.... which is why the pool never gets clear. Algae didn;t take over in a day ore two, so it'll take more than a day or two to get rid of it.

 

[hubs99]

OK, Round 2. How often should I be backwashing? Only when the pressure jumps?

Thanks again. We'll see what the morning brings.

 

[Richard320]

OK, Round 2. How often should I be backwashing? Only when the pressure jumps?

Thanks again. We'll see what the morning brings.

When the pressure rises 25% over clean pressure OR you notice diminished return flow. And maybe a full teardown when the SLAM is all done just to get it really clean. Backwashing never removes all the DE. DE Filter Cleaning Tutorial

 

[hubs99]

We had an overcast day and my FC stayed 10 all day. Should I bounce it back overnight? Or should i presume the organic matter is fried its just dead particulate that needs to be filtered?

The water continues to be cloudy, FC 10, pH, TA, CYA all normal range.

 

[Richard320]

We had an overcast day and my FC stayed 10 all day. Should I bounce it back overnight? Or should i presume the organic matter is fried its just dead particulate that needs to be filtered?

The water continues to be cloudy, FC 10, pH, TA, CYA all normal range.

SLAM Process says keep it at shock level until: CC is 0.5 or lower AND you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test AND the water is clear all at the same time. I don't see any of those yet. Don't stop too soon, or it will return.

 

[hubs99]

Richard - Thanks for all your help - The pool has been green free for close to a week and I could not be any happier. Hopefully I won't screw it up.

 

[Richard320]

Richard - Thanks for all your help - The pool has been green free for close to a week and I could not be any happier. Hopefully I won't screw it up.

Now's when you coast. Just don't coast too long. Keep the FC up and the pH in range and brush and vacuum once in a while and that's all there is. The pool will just keep getting clearer and clearer and someday soon someone is going to come over and see your sparkling pool and freeze and say "Wow!"