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Thread: what to tackle first before SLAMMING?

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    what to tackle first before SLAMMING?

    Just opened up the pool and did my first test with my Taylor test kit.

    Pool is murky green and I needed to add about 2-3 feet of hose water to the pool with garden hose to get pool water to correct levels.

    So, here are the test results.

    cc = 0
    fc= 0
    ph 8.2
    ta = 80
    CH = 120
    cya = 0

    I know I need to SLAM and get the PH lowered to 7.4 or so. I know that I need to add stabilizer to get my CYA to about 30. I know I need to add a ton of calcium hardness to get to proper levels.

    My question is...should I address the CYA, PH , and CH levels before SLAMMING? What should be my priority?

    Proud user of BBB method the last 3-4 years with great results. However, this is the greenest my pool has been at the open in awhile.

    What specific order should I address the CYA, PH and CH.

    I assume I'm going to have to add some dry acid (PH) and stabilizer (CYA) in a nylon sock to get PH and CYA inline before starting my SLAM, is that right?

    At what point should I add the calcium hardness? before, during, or after the SLAM?

    thanks in advance!
    25k, IG, fiberglass walls and plaster/cement steps and floor, DE, 3/4 HP Heyward motor, Heyward automatic chlorinator, Pool is about 20 years old.

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    Re: what to tackle first before SLAMMING?

    I would suggest enough CYA to get to 30 ppm (more later)

    Bring pH down to around 7.4 or so with muriatic acid.

    SLAM

    After SLAM is complete, adjust CYA to desired level

    Ad CH as needed (treat it as a masonry pool....250 ppm total)

    Adjust pH and TA (once more) to desired levels

    Go swimming!!
    Dave S.
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    Mod Squad woodyp's Avatar
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    Re: what to tackle first before SLAMMING?

    Fix your PH.

    Add your stabilizer to 30

    SLAM at CYA level of 30

    Worry about hardness afterwards.
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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: what to tackle first before SLAMMING?

    Get the water level up so the pump runs well. Add acid to get the pH to 7.2 Use Pool Math to calculate how much CYA you need to get to 30 and float it in a sock. You can do all of this at the same time. Once you have tested pH at 7.2, the pump is running and the CYA is floating start your SLAM

    Day one of the SLAM use 10 as your shock target as the CYA will not be dissolved. Day 2 and on use 12 as your shock target assuming your CYA is now 30.

    CH can be dealt with after the SLAM.

    Follow the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School completely to the end.

    * CC is 0.5 or lower;
    * You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
    * The water is clear.

    When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: what to tackle first before SLAMMING?

    Just to be sure I'm not confused- you do NOT add dry acid to the stocking, just scatter in and only put CYA in to the stocking.

    If you have to lower your pH often, Muriatic Acid is a better source (cheaper too). Continual use of dry acid can cause sulphites to build up and they can damage plaster. Very occasional use is fine. Otherwise go with the MA
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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: what to tackle first before SLAMMING?

    Quote Originally Posted by YippeeSkippy View Post
    Just to be sure I'm not confused- you do NOT add dry acid to the stocking, just scatter in and only put CYA in to the stocking.

    If you have to lower your pH often, Muriatic Acid is a better source (cheaper too). Continual use of dry acid can cause sulphites to build up and they can damage plaster. Very occasional use is fine. Otherwise go with the MA
    Good catch, I missed that.

    YS is correct, never mix chemicals. Only CYA in the sock. I also agree that muratic acid is better for your pH control as it doesn't add stuff to the water we don't want.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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