First time opening and posting

May 21, 2016
62
Swansea MA
Hello let me start by saying this is a great resource. I have been reading posts and researching here for about 6 months.

Here is what I got going on. Yesterday I uncovered my pool after the winter. I lost a bit of water over the winter due to plugs leaking, but the water was crystal clear. I filled from the town water for about 8 hours got all the plumbing connected and filter charged with DE and ran all night. This morning went out and vacuumed and ran my mad chemist tests with my new TF100 kit.

Here are my results:

FC 11
CC .5
TA 60
CYA 40
PH 6.8
TC 5+

First test questions.
TA test does pink count as red?
The fifth drop turned pink the sixth turned red. Would that be 55?
The TC test was brighter than 5 what would that mean?

Next the chemical questions.
What would be the best order to get on track?

Thanks in advance
Bryan
 
Welcome to the forum Bryan:wave:

You have some interesting results from your testing- the FC testing works in increments of 0.2 or 0.5 per drop depending on whether you used the 10ml or 25ml sample. Also did the CC take 1 drop = 0.5.

We say that you are done with the test when looking for a colour change when the last drop doesn't change the colour, which you then subsequently take off your total.

Oh and your pH is way too low at 6.8 which is as low as it reads it could be even lower so this will need to be addressed ASAP.
 
Hi Bryan and welcome! :wave: For TA ... yes ... it turns a bright Barbie pink then you're done. Call it 40, 50, 60, etc. FC should be tested with the power & drops. The powder should make the 10 ml sample pink, then count the drops until the 10 ml sample turns clear. Half the total drop count is your FC. (Example: 10 ml sample ... 12 drops = FC of 6). Your pH is too low. You must raise it now with borax or soda ash. Get the pH back to about 7.5 for now.

Do pH right away, let mix for about 30 min then re-check. Then add bleach to get to FC of 5.

Now is where we would normally tell you to increase CYA to 70 for your SWG. Before doing so ... make SURE you have no algae or cloudiness. If you do, NOW is the time to SLAM while your CYA is low (less bleach). You can do an OCLT to confirm if you want. Once you rule-out any algae, then raise your CYA to 70 for optimal SWG performance.
 
Ok thanks will get on that Ph first.

I followed the directions that came with the TF100 so the chlorine test was a 10ml. Yes the CC took 1 drop to return to clear.

I think I see an error in my OP. The total FC and CC should be your TC. What I did was get my TC from the K1000 blue box which even more confusing because shouldn't they be the same TC?

According to the pool math calc I need to add 6 1/2 lbs of borax to raise my PH is that correct?
 
Your right on for the CYA. I get 10 lbs in Pool Math for the borax based on 13500 gallons -is that pool volume right ? Definitely a very good sign if the pool is crystal clear.

We are mainly concerned with the FC and CC rather than the TC. Can you confirm your FC number you got using the FAS-DPD test?
 
Ok so got home at 3:00 added what I would say was 6 lbs of borax. (1 and a half 4lb boxes) Waited 45 mins of the filter running and re tested and the new numbers are:

FC 8
CC .5
PH 8.2
CYA 40
Tested all these twice for accuracy. Seems like the PH jumped way more than I expected. Am I doing something wrong and will the PH slowly come down or do I need to lower it?
 
Yes, when I did the calculator, it told me to add 5 1/2 lbs of borax to go from 6.8 to 7.5. Looks like you over-shot by a little. :brickwall:. I doubt it will lower on it's own. Best to use muriatic acid to lower it back down. 13 ounces of muriatic acid will bring it back from 8.2 to 7.5. :)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Just went and bought some acid. Tested before adding and ph was 8.2. Added 13 oz. of acid by diluting in 5 gal bucket then slow pour in front of return. Boy that was scary adding acid to my pool. Will let it run 30 mins and test again and repot back. Thanks so much for help.
 
I would. A small, short-lived CC spike is one thing. But now that it's climbing I suspect your pool is struggling a bit after opening-up. Is it still uncovered? Definitely let the sun do its thing to oxidize those CCs as much as possible. With any luck your SLAM won't take long at all.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.