I Have Divorced the Pool Store and their Chemicals - Starting Over & Scared

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U

Ubrucen

0
Bronze Supporter
Apr 2, 2016
48
Vancouver
Pool Size
60500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I've decided to take care of the pool, normally my husband would do it but am going to be the go-to pool girl from now on. I'm really nervous to make a mistake; I know all the info is here in the TFP site but I need a little hand holding if I could. We have a SWG, I bought muriatic acid (20 baume, 31.45%), borax, baking soda (arm & hammer), calcium chloride (dowflake), stabilizer & conditioner (HTH).

Just for the sake of comparison for my own curiosity, I brought in a water sample to my local pool store today, then about 30 mins later, I did my own testing with the TF-100 kit.

Pool store results:
Total Chlorine: 3.4
Free Chlorine: 2
CH: 148
TA: 103
CYA: 53
PH: 8.1
Borates: 23

My results:
FC: 6.5
CC: 0.5
CH: 200
TA:130
PH: I have a hard time reading this one but would say 7.7-8.0
CYA: 40

I'm shocked at the differences between the store and my results. Ok so here's what I'd like to confirm.

1)I believe my FC is a bit high and should lower my SWG percentage to around no more than 5?
2)PH obviously needs to go down. For lowering my TA I'll bring PH down to 7.0-7.2 and aerate
3)Aerating can be done by leaving cover off and turning on my slide and waterfalls, right?
4) not sure if my CH is ideal?
5)will bring up my CYA to 70-80. I bought muriatic acid in liquid form and I think this one scares me the most. As per the pool calculator, it calls for 2500 ml, which I will slowly pour in front of a jet and watch for splashing (in deep end, right?).

Otherwise my pool water has been clear but have been noticing a filmy kind of look on the surface. Am I on the right track to get started? Thanks for helping the noob.
 
Glad to hear you're taking charge! :goodjob: One major correction ... the acid. "Cyanuric" acid increases CYA, NOT muriatic acid. The MA lowers pH and TA. The Cyanuric acid (stabilizer/conditioner) will increase your CYA. You have the right idea on everything else. And your CH is fine for now. Good work.
 
I'm impressed.. you have taken the most important step and that is having the ability to test your own pool water.

I recommend that you first load the free "Pool Pal" app for your phone. It is the same concept as the pool calculator found here, but in my opinion easier to use.

I'd leave the FC alone for now and concentrate on bringing the pH and TA down. For me anyway, the best way is to have a free day, where you can check on the pool every four hours or so. Using pool pal or the pool math calculator, determine how much Muriatic Acid you will need to bring the pH down to 7.0. Pour that in as you already described and start to Aerate. Test pH and TA again in about 4 hours and record the results. Once again add enough acid to bring pH down to 7.0. Keep doing this, every four hours, unit your TA get down to 60 and then keep aerating until the pH gets up to 7.5 or so.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Thank you both very much. Looking for the Pool Pal - I have an Iphone 6 and "HTH Test to Swim" and "Aqua Pal" come up when I search Pool Pal. Maybe we Canadians can't get it?

I already posted the below pic recently in another thread but there was no response. Any idea what this staining is? It's yellowish white. Some of it was there when we bought the house and it seems to be getting worse - it spiders in the shallow end and goes along the wall about mid depth of the pool around most of the liner (it's 1-2 inches thick band around) as well. I'd sure love to get rid of it if there's any way - or be resigned to accept it until next liner if it's a permanent stain. I just want to try to find out either way. Thanks again!!

Streaks.jpg
 
Good morning, ubrucen.

First off, when you use the MA to lower the ph, it helps to hold your breath when pouring or turn your face away to avoid the fumes. Some folks wear gloves and goggles, as the directions usually suggest. I hate MA too, but it is better than using dry acid to lower ph because dry acids add sulphates and swg manufacturers recommend against that, just so you know ;)

Re: liner stains... How old is the liner?

In general, we test stains using a chlorine puck and then crushed up vitamin c. If a puck lifts the stain, its organic; if vit c lifts the stain, its metal.

If nothing touches the stain, its possible that its an area that was bleached out/worn and now natural wear continues to increase its size. In rare cases, it can also be an underliner growth...this is more typical with an older liner where some of the treatment on the back has worn off. Some people have luck treating underliner growth by watering in ferric oxide around the perimeter of the pool.

Here's an article about the ferric sulphate treatment:Bacteria and Fungus Stains - Pacific Pools | In Ground Pools

Hope that helps give you some ideas.

And congratulations on your Divorce. You'll be so much happier without him...Er...them ;)
 
I'm curious by nature and was kind of a final hurrah to see how the testing numbers would compare with my home kit. They also suggested I shock the pool but if I'm understanding correctly, it looks good to me. Thanks everyone for the input. I like the home kit. I feel like a scientist with all of my tubes and solutions :)
 
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