Hi, Im fairly new to this site. This is my first post. Im about to open up our pool for the season. What shoyld I do first? Ive tried reading all the forums about doing this and Im so confused!
Opening green pool for summer! What should I do first?!
- Thread starter linda48
- Start date
Let's make sure all your equipment is hooked up and functional first with water level half way up the skimmer face. Then we TEST!~ Got one of our recommended test kits? Welcome.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Woodyp has you covered. Get your equipment up and running, water at the right level, then post back a set of test results.
Welcome to TFP!
My favorite test kit is the TF100 from TFTestkits.net. Since your pool is green get the XL option so you'll have some extra stuff.
My favorite test kit is the TF100 from TFTestkits.net. Since your pool is green get the XL option so you'll have some extra stuff.
Thank you all so much! I will get everything going early tomorrow, my kids are very excited!
Woodyp, I was not able to get the pool open as early as Id of liked, but I did get it opened. After setting everything up and getting everything going, these were my test results using the Taylor K2006 kit:
FC 7.8-8
CYA 30 (the water was a bit foggy but I could still see the black dot.)
TA 90
CH 80
PH was purple
I feel these numbers are very high, my water is not as green as I thought it would be.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you
FC 7.8-8
CYA 30 (the water was a bit foggy but I could still see the black dot.)
TA 90
CH 80
PH was purple
I feel these numbers are very high, my water is not as green as I thought it would be.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Okay Linda, thanks for posting. So it appears you have "some" green visible correct? Also, your CYA is low and pH appears to be very high. Well, we can assume a "SLAM" will be required to remove the algae (link below). Before you start a SLAM, you need to lower pH to 7.2 (orange). Then you need to adjust CYA so that the black dot disappears at 30. You definitely want a CYA of 30. Then increase FC to "12" and maintain that FC around-the-clock as best as you can until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria. Take a look at the SLAM page each day for details. Good luck!
Thanks for taking the time to post the info 
But Im still really confused... can you tell me where I should start first?
But Im still really confused... can you tell me where I should start first?
Hi Linda,
First you'll want to get that PH lowered to about 7.2
Next add enough stabilizer (cya) to ensure you are at 30.....dot disappears at 30. You can add the stabilizer to an old tube sock and tie it in front of a return or.....I ties mine to a floating pool noodle
Then. You want to bring your chlorine up to shock level for a cya of 30. To SLAM, you need to keep FC at shock level for your CYA until you pass all three criteria. Clear clean water, pass overnight chlorine loss test and cc of .5 or less.
Use the Pool Math link at the top of the page to determine the amounts of chemicals you need for each step. You can do it all in a day.....if the sock of CYA is floating in the pool just assume the CyA is there for now. It helps to agitate the sock to dissolve the granules faster.
First you'll want to get that PH lowered to about 7.2
Next add enough stabilizer (cya) to ensure you are at 30.....dot disappears at 30. You can add the stabilizer to an old tube sock and tie it in front of a return or.....I ties mine to a floating pool noodle
Then. You want to bring your chlorine up to shock level for a cya of 30. To SLAM, you need to keep FC at shock level for your CYA until you pass all three criteria. Clear clean water, pass overnight chlorine loss test and cc of .5 or less.
Use the Pool Math link at the top of the page to determine the amounts of chemicals you need for each step. You can do it all in a day.....if the sock of CYA is floating in the pool just assume the CyA is there for now. It helps to agitate the sock to dissolve the granules faster.
And I meant you can do all of those steps sequentially in a day. The SLAM process of keeping your FC at shock level until you pass the three criteria mentioned could (and for most is) a days long process. Brush brush brush while FC is high. And reminder use plain unscented bleach or liquid chlorine to raise your FC.....stay away from other forms of stabilized chlorine as that will add another chemical you probably don't need to your pool.
You can do this.
You can do this.
If you are unsure if what you are about to add is correct, (after trying to use pool math) stop by and ask to double check.
So I love all their comments, and highly suggest you follow them.
If you have any questions about any of the instructions, click the link to read more:
lowering ph & raise CYA: on recommend chemicals page
How many gallons is my pool & how much chemical do I need to add?
(Ignore this paragraph if familiar with muriatic acid) If after reading about Muriatic Acid (MA) you decide that's how you want to lower ph, great choice btw, then read this, especially comment #3 (by duraleigh) which describes my preferred way to add it. Never had a scare or accident following those instructions. A little wind blowing away from you towards the slow pouring acid is perfect. If there is no wind, a small fan or just holding your breath and taking breaks are my go to precautions so i never smell it, and thus don't breathe it.
Friendly reminder, add the calculated ph lower chemical with pump running, brush bottom to help mix thoroughly, wait 15 mins, retest ph, ( it is possible that it still tests above the max of your test kit after 15 mins. That's okay, just add same amount again, no need to recalculate, brush, retest in 15.)if ph went down but not all the way to 7.2, re calculate how much to add and safely add that amount. Brush, wait 15. Retest/recall/add/brush/ test until 7.2 is achieved.
Ask any questions at all that are not answered in pool school. Answers are often very fast.
If you have any questions about any of the instructions, click the link to read more:
lowering ph & raise CYA: on recommend chemicals page
How many gallons is my pool & how much chemical do I need to add?
(Ignore this paragraph if familiar with muriatic acid) If after reading about Muriatic Acid (MA) you decide that's how you want to lower ph, great choice btw, then read this, especially comment #3 (by duraleigh) which describes my preferred way to add it. Never had a scare or accident following those instructions. A little wind blowing away from you towards the slow pouring acid is perfect. If there is no wind, a small fan or just holding your breath and taking breaks are my go to precautions so i never smell it, and thus don't breathe it.
Friendly reminder, add the calculated ph lower chemical with pump running, brush bottom to help mix thoroughly, wait 15 mins, retest ph, ( it is possible that it still tests above the max of your test kit after 15 mins. That's okay, just add same amount again, no need to recalculate, brush, retest in 15.)if ph went down but not all the way to 7.2, re calculate how much to add and safely add that amount. Brush, wait 15. Retest/recall/add/brush/ test until 7.2 is achieved.
Ask any questions at all that are not answered in pool school. Answers are often very fast.
Hello everyone! So I added about 5 oz. Of muriatic acid last night. Tested it today and at first results were 7.0- 7.2 PH, but then after a couple minutes of leting it stand the PH results are 7.6 and the CYA 30 (black dot did disappear this time). So, I dont think Ill need the stabilizer, but Im not 100% sure. I can see all the way to the bottom of the water and there's alot of debris. Im going to vacuum as soon as my vacuum is charged up . What should i do next
Interesting! Did you happen to see the extended directions page for cya test? It took me from uncertain to completely professional on that test. Fun fact: I had to strain my water through coffee filters when my pool was a mess to get an accurate reading lol.
I suggest running one more ph test, being sure to get the water sample from 18-24 inches below the surface. Share result please.
I suggest running one more ph test, being sure to get the water sample from 18-24 inches below the surface. Share result please.
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