Hi, I'm new to this forum and a relatively new poolowner. Although I've been reading a lot, I still have some questions. I apologizefor the long post but I've been having some problems!
My pool was opened early Wed AM and the pool guys put some chlorine in. EarlyThurs AM I put some salt in as the low salt light was on. Early Thurs PM,I went to pool store to get the watertested (I need to order a test kit) and was given the following results:
Hardness 166ppm (it doesn't specify if it is specifically CalciumHardness)
Alkalinity 56 ppm
Salt 3100 (although my SWG said 2600)
I already started to make adjustments recommended by pool store before I foundyou guys. I've added 30 lb salt, approx. 28oz magic acid, 5lb Alk-a-boost(They recommended 18 pounds, but I stopped after 5 pounds when I found you guysand haven’t added anything else yet). They also recommended CalciumChloride and CYA but I wanted to check with all of you who are so much moreknowledgable than me. I just went to pool store and had water retestedand here are the results:
Total Dissolved Solids 4475
-I see in Pool School "Water Balance for SWGs" that CYA should beadded first (after salt). Everything I have read says not to add CYAuntil other levels are at the proper levels. Why is it different for SWGpools? (unfortunately I have already added some chemicals)
-Pool store and other sources say alkalinity should be 80 at a minimum. TFP says SWG pools only need 60-80. Does the fact that I have a heaterchange the target? Pool store concerned that a reading of 60 would resultin the copper being dissolved from the heater and damage over time to the poolladder etc. If I could keep Alkalinity lower, it might help with some ofmy problems (see below)
-Pool store wants me to raise hardness to at least 200 - but if I'm readingthis website correctly, my pool is perfectly fine at 166ppm or are there otherfactors I should be considering?
-Should I add more Clorox to shock the pool since CC isn't zero (in fact it has risen) and since there arephospates in the pool? I was lucky that our water looked pretty good whenthe pool was opened (most of our neighbors had pea green pools because ourwinter was milder/warmer than usual), but I did notice a little yellowy crustaround the water line which I assume was the beginning of algae. I'vebrushed down the walls.If I should addClorox, do I do it AFTER I put in CYA?According to TFP pool school I need to bring that way up.Also, should I add more Magic Acid to bring pHdown after CYA and shocking pool? Or after CYA but before shock?
-Also I had some problems with my pool last year, there were white flakes inthe pool....for those still willing to read, here is the history:
At some point, I noticed white flakes in the pool, particularly on pool floorby the return. some flakes were quite large. I thought somethingmight be wrong with my equipment and had the pool company look at it when theywere here for another issue. They said it was scale because of high pH(prob around 8 at the time, but it hadn't been there long because I hadregularly been having water tested and making adjustments). I got the pHlower, but the flakes never went away. However, we were in a viciouscycle of having a high ph reading (7.9-8), and after lowering the pH having lowalkalinity ...then after making an adjustment to raise alkalinity (to approx.80ppm) pH would be high again. Then I'd lower pH and alkalinity wouldrequire an adjustment etc etc. My total hardness through this was in thelow 200s range.
Finally the pool guys tested for total dissolved solids (TDS) and they werevery high at over 4000 (compared to recommended levels of 0-2000ppm –apparently salt is part of this but notat a 1 to 1 ratio?). So then they said maybe it wasn't scale but the factthe pool was saturated and solids were dropping out. The computerrecommended 75% drain of the pool! Aside from the time and money - itwasn't practical although I did drain a foot and replace with rain water andtap water. At pool close last fall I drained another 1 1/2 feetwhich filled over time with rain water (much preferable to tap water since rainis ph of 6.6% compared to tap water which is 8-8.1% and I don't want tocontribute to the cycle of high pH and low Alkalinity and then add so manychemicals that TDS rises again) However I do see some evidence of whiteflakes again this year – just had TDS tested and it has NOT gone down despitethe cumulative 2 ˝ feet of pool drain. I don't know if its remnants on our equipment from last year or if it is stilla problem. (I’m going to attempt to clean our SWG) Any thoughts or ideasabout this (and /or should my targeted levels be tweaked because of thisissue?)Should I avoid Boric Acidbecause of our high TDS (I didn’t drain anything near 75% of pool)
Thanks so so much!!!!