Calcium deposits? I think?

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beesathome

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May 19, 2016
21
Duncansville, PA
Hello everyone. I am new to the pool world and have read every thread on this topic i can find.

My pool was closed for 3 years(bought a repo) and i have uncovered it to find it full of leaves. Leaves removed and water tested.

Here are the results of the water testing.

CYA 0
Total Chlorine 1.1
Free Chlorine 0.5
Ph 7.5
total Alkalinity 137
total Hardness 313

No metals at all. I have a brownish and white film all over the liner. Worse in the corners and down the walls of the deep end but also all over the steps and shallow end too. the pool is a lazy L inground, vinyl liner, approx 20/40. 1st picture is on the stairs dried, second is the steps, and 3rd is the bottom of the shallow end. It looks like this almost all over the liner.

20160519_114447.jpg20160519_111954.jpg20160519_111940.jpg

Any and all help and comments would be greatly appreciated. I am not having any luck :(

Thanks so much,

Breh
 
Those look like pool store test results. I wouldn't trust 'em.

You can test if it's Calcium on that first picture by putting a drop of acid on it and seeing of it fizzes.

The greenish stuff looks like organic staining. Could be algae embedded in scale, though.

If (big if) those readings are right, it means CC is .6. That's high. The water looks a little cloudy, too. I think if you started with a SLAM Process to clear the water up, it would also fade any organic stains. They might not disappear 100% but they'd get lighter. Completely bleaching them out takes weeks if not months.

Scale can be attacked (after eradicating any algae) by running the pH at the low end of the safe zone, 7.2>7.4 and reducing TA to some number that will give you a negative CSI. Poolmath will do the math for you. You're in no danger of etching plaster, so you can push it down to -.5 if you want. Scale will dissolve back into solution, but it's at a glacial pace. You're handicapped because you can't attack it with a stainless steel brush, lest you damage the liner.

Face itm, that pool didn;t get that way in just a couple days, so it's going to take more than a couple days to make it perfect again. Cleaning up a mess always takes longer than making it.
 
Ok. I read up on everything. If i slam with bleach will that not increase the hardness of my water? I bought the test kit that was available at my local store. I will retest in the morning and post numbers from what i get. As I am new i thought the pool store was my best bet. That being said i will stay away lol. So basically will the bleach increase the calcium that is already a mess in my water? I was told to use sodium dichlor but now i am doubting everything i have been told.

Thank you for your help so far!!!
 
What test kit? Likely it is not good enough (lacking the FAS-DPD chlorine test which is REQUIRED to follow the SLAM process) and you should have just order one.

Bleach adds chlorine and a little salt ... no calcium to increase the "hardness"

Dichlor adds stabilizer (CYA) which is worse to get too high than the CH.

BTW, a CH of 300ppm is right in the recommended range ... not high at all.

- - - Updated - - -

Please add your location (add the State ) to your profile and pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
 
Hello. Got the Taylor k2005 at my local pool store. They tested my water and did the machine one also.

Taylor
CYA 0
CC 0.5
FC 0
PH 7.4
TA 120
CH 300
Pool store
CYA 0
CC 0.5
FC 0.1
PH 7.5
TA 125
CH 304
Iron 0.2

They want me to use stain free but i want to do the slam as from what i am reading it should take care of the staining whether organic or metal.

Do i need to add stabilizer? Mine is 0. CYA to Chlorine chart only starts at 20.
Should i use Dichlor to start out to increase CYA and then move to bleach or liquid chlorine?

Im off the next 4 days from work and would like to get started on this :)

thank you!! I think i have the signature correct and my state added.
 

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The K-2005 is missing the FAS-DPD that you'll need to SLAM.

You can order just that part right here.
TFTestkits.net
Most pool stores won't have any idea what you are talking about if you ask for it.

Yes, you need CYA. You have a couple of options. You can add stabilizer now in a sock hanging by a return, or if you have some pucks and a floater, you can put a bunch in there, just keep an eye on the total result of how many you add using PoolMath and the bottom "effects of adding..." Just don't go buy more pucks just for this purpose.

Or, yes, you can SLAM with Dichlor. Again, just keep track of what you are doing by using PoolMath. I did exactly that this year.
 
That was not on the list of recommended test kits. Now you need to add the FAS-DPD Chlorine Test to have the equivalent.

SLAM will not remove metal stains, you need a different procedure for that.

You can not start the SLAM until you have the FAS-DPD chlorine test. The first check would be to dose the FC up to 10ppm and recheck the FC and CC in 10 minutes ... you can not test up to a FC of 10ppm or test the CC ...
 
Since your pool was sitting a long time and the CYA and FC dropped to zero, there is a chance of bacteria conversion of CYA to ammonia. The test above will see if there is ammonia. If you do have the bacteria, then adding more CYA could result in more ammonia and thus require more chlorine to get it out.

If you pass the above test, then you can certainly start adding CYA and using dichlor for a little while.
 

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