Just got my TF-100 test kit, results:

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Dogcrazy2007

Dogcrazy2007

0
Mar 12, 2016
43
Topeka Kansas
My TF-100 test kit arrived 5 days sooner than expected! So now I finally have accurate results to use the TFP method...

FC .5
CC .5
TC 1
TA 300
CYA 25 (exactly half way between 20 and 30)
pH 8.2

So I plan on reducing the TA by using muriatic acid. I was hoping to get this at Walmart... do they keep it in the pool section or where do I have to go to find this? Is it sold under another name like CYA is (stabilizer)?

Pool math says to add 20 oz of chlorine, 8.7 oz of muriatic acid (20 baume) and 3.6 oz of stabilizer. I am going to pour the chlorine and acid in front of the return jet and put the stabilizer in the skimmer basket.

Am I on the right track??

Also, when testing TA, I noticed that the water flashed red for a second and then turned clear. Is this what I was looking for? I noticed a few times that the water would be a mix of red and green, then go back to being solid green when I swirled it around.
 
Nice getting your kit early :)

I would hold off on add CYA, just use 30 for now and if you notice your chlorine level dropping more than 3 a day then go ahead and raise it.. Use a sock to put the stabilizer in if you need to add and you can set it in the skimmer.

MA is usually not in walmart, Lowes has it in the outdoor section or just ask someone

The TA test is one of the fun one's but here is a video :)

 
Thanks! That video is very handy. Now I know what to look for in the future. My TA is probably higher than 300 then since I stopped after the water turned red then clear. I was also not swirling as I was dropping. I set the tube down, dropped in a drop, then lifted to swirl and repeated.

I am going to Menards later today so I'll pick up some MA there. What is it commonly used for so I can give the employee some direction in case they don't know what it is?

I will hold off on the CYA. Thankfully I've got plenty of filter media bags lying around for my aquariums, so I'll use one of those for the stabilizer in the future.
 
Each time I see a new poster put up his numbers, I go right to the FC. FC is the vital ingredient you need to manage your pool properly. Next is pH but having adequate FC in your pool is first and foremost..

So, TA, CYA are all parameters we have to work with but that FC should be your absolute priority. Using PoolMath, add enough chlorine to get to 3-4 ppm, hold it there, and then get your other parameters in order.

Chlorine is most always first and should always be the item you are concerned with......yours is too low!
 
Just tested my water today, results:

FC: .5
CC: .5
TC: 1
TA: 160
CYA: 30
PH: 8.2

All I did after my last test was add 20 oz of 10% chlorine. Why can't I seem to get the TC up? Should I add more chlorine than what pool math reccomended? Also, what caused my TA to drop over night? I didn't add the MA. The only thing I did different is I forgot to put the cover on the pool last night, and it got down to 47 degrees outside.
 
Nothing can make TA drop from 300 to 160, it has to be testing variance from one test to the other. Don't worry about TA right now.

The most likely reason chlorine isn't holding is that there is algae in the pool consuming it. How does the water look?

You need to lower your PH, it is important to keep PH between 7.2 and 7.8.

If there is algae in the pool then follow this process, Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Read here to understand how to care for you water, Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
Something is consuming your chlorine and whatever it is, it may not be visible. It is not uncommon to have clear water and yet have issues.

Would you please add a signature by clicking on settings at the top of the page, then on the left sidebar click signature. Give us you pool volume, equipment, surface, testkit, etc.
 

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Yes, it is entirely possible to have algae and clear water. By the time the water turns green it has been there a long time.

Steps for algae
1 chlorine consumed at higher than normal rate
2 slightly slimy feel on walls
3 slightly cloudy water
4 weird dust/sand looking stuff settling on bottom (this is dead algae)
5 more cloudy water
6 a few visible patches of green here and there if you look closely
7 cloudy water can't see the bottom
8 green tint to water
9 green murky water
10 swamp

If you are unsure you can Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) and that will tell you for sure.
 
I do have a signature, look at my first post. I am not always near a computer, so I use my iPhone to respond on this thread. I'm not sure why it's not adding my signature when I post from it.

- - - Updated - - -

I have MA, got it two days ago when I posted that I was going to buy it. I got 2 gallons from Mendards and it was next to the paint thinner. But I haven't added it because I was told to address the chlorine level first.

So now i guess I start the Slam process and spend even more money on this pool that I haven't even gotten to swim in yet... Ugh.
 
The Show Signature box needs to be checked on each device one time. Once checked it will stay checked.

PH and chlorine need to be maintained at all times. Both can be adjusted daily, no need to wait days. Bad things happen in your pool when PH is not between 7.2 and 7.8. Anytime you see PH above 7.8 add some acid, Poolmath will tell you how much.
 
Just to give you my experience.... My water was very clear, not as clear as it now and I had no idea it could even be this clear! My FC was dropping at a normal rate each day but I could not pass the over night test and I could not get my CC to drop below 0.5. This went on for two weeks and I went thru 25 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine. One day I tested and the CC was 0. That night I passed the over night test and all has been good since. I typically use 64oz of 10% liquid chlorine each day (~27,000 gallon pool). Just wanted to say all this because I was in the same boat as you just one month ago. This is my first pool and I had no clue what was going on. It didnt make since to me to stay in the SLAM with the water being clear and no signs of algae... I am glad I stuck with it now as I have had crystal clear water for almost a month and only added chlorine when its needed. The water temp still has not gotten up so I can swim.. One thing that has made me stick to this method is being told about another guy currently using what the pool store is telling him. He added 25lbs of powder shock and within two days his FC was 0. Pool store just told him to add 25lbs more! He has already spent more than I have and has not addressed any other issue he may have.
 
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