algae???

bppool

0
Dec 8, 2015
7
Deltona, Florida
Hi. Big fan of site. I have an in-ground plaster 12 x 24, 8600 gal small pool with screened lanai. I have been following site for a while and seem to have pool under control.

My problem is when I sweep it every 2 to 3 days and a green dust is swept off all walls and floor. Filter has some green in it when I check hours after I sweep, so I do clean it. FC and CC values seem great! I do have a lot of pollen here but it is not yellowish and is on walls.

Hayward super pump 3/4 rated, Waterway PCCF 100 filter housing, but using a Pleatco PA 90 filter. When clean 9 psi non solar and 13 psi solar using 5-4x12 solar panels with valve to use or shut off solar. When pools pump starts I do get air coming out of jets for a few seconds on solar. Also, suction, skimmer and main drains each has their own line to pump with valves to select one, two or all. I us all single item chemicals (I did use Pool School a lot, tks for it!) like 10% chlorine and muriatic acid from Lowes. Taylor FAS-DPD and Pinch a Penny 5 way test kit.

Tests one hour ago:
FC = 8.5
CC = 0
PH = 7.6
Alk = 90
Cya = 80
Hardness = 450 very hard. City H2o is like 250.
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: It sounds like you're slowly moving in the right direction. When you receive the FAS-DPD kit you will be able to take proper action..... "SLAM" (link below). That's what you need. There should be NO green in your pool unless it's a swimsuit. No amount of filtering will clear it up, only the SLAM (bleach will do that). So once you get that FAS-DPD kit, then you can start running the SLAM.

As for your readings above ....pH will need to be lowered for the SLAM to about 7.2. Your CYA is very high though. You don't have a SWG do you? If not, would you want to do a partial water exchange first to lower the CYA to about 50 or so? That would save on some bleach. Otherwise, you will need to maintain a very high FC level during the SLAM (31). That water exchange would also help to lower your CH a bit.
 
Wonderful! Good you already have it. :goodjob: Well then, you have a choice to make ..... SLAM now at the current CYA of 80 which requires an FC of 31, or do a partial water exchange. Because your pool is under a lanai, you shouldn't need a terribly high CYA (on purpose), so if you didn't add stabilizer, it had to have come from chlorine tablets or bags of shock from the pool store. That's assuming you do not have a need for a very high CYA for a salt water generator.

If it were me (with no SWG) I would do a partial water exchange to lower both CYA and CH. Even a 25-30% exchange will help quite a bit during the SLAM. After that, make sure you're not using any pool store tablets or bagged shock products that increase CYA.
 
You are very welcome. FYI - I was a little concerned about exchanging close to 70%, so I entered your numbers on the Poolmath Calculator and it told me the following:
70% water exchange lowers CYA to 25 (just under the TFP recommended level)
70% water exchange lowers CH to 130 (too lower for a plaster pool)

So I would be more inclined to recommend replacing only about 40% of your water. Then you would have a CYA of 50 (SLAM FC of 20) and CH of about 280 - both are reasonable to perform a SLAM and leave you in very good shape for summer. Make sense?
 
OK, on the CYA.....I have a test tube that a black dot, about 3/16" inch, put on with a marker.
My results; With a bright sun behind me the dot was about 50% obscured with 80 degrees of 7 ml pool h2o and 7 ml reagent (Taylor R-00013). With 7 ml pool h2o at 80 degrees and "14" ml of reagent, I can still just barely make out the dot in bright sun. Ideas on ppm on cya?
 
OK, on the CYA.....I have a test tube that a black dot, about 3/16" inch, put on with a marker.
My results; With a bright sun behind me the dot was about 50% obscured with 80 degrees of 7 ml pool h2o and 7 ml reagent (Taylor R-00013). With 7 ml pool h2o at 80 degrees and "14" ml of reagent, I can still just barely make out the dot in bright sun. Ideas on ppm on cya?

I don't think I'm understanding - do you mean you made the test tube for CYA yourself? If so I highly recommend you get a test kit that has CYA testing capability.
https://www.taylortechnologies.com/ChemistryTopicsCM.ASP?ContentID=36
 

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