New to pool plumbing and chemistry

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paronaram

0
May 14, 2016
20
Englishtown, NJ
Hello Everybody.
As many of us here "Just Getting Started" we also got a house with pool, and never had pool on my own, so all this new to me.
Called local pool service company's, setup meetings talked to many of them was seeking for help...
Last one showed up (owner operator + 3 helper) resealed PVC to pump connection, replaces 5" PVC connector, replaced Vari-flo gasket. and charge me $260 !!! and it still leaks
Oh and he stole my Jandy valve handle and valve, and when I noticed my loss, I called him and he told me has allot of those parts in his van and he is going to drop off one next week :grrrr:
Another pool company charges $110p/h for after open cleaning and going over equipment. I have broken heater and new Heyward H-series is about $1800, they ask me $1700 for installation only :shock:

Sometimes we all get so busy with work, kids and things around house so I don't mind paying for PROFESSIONAL help, but after dealing with 2 company's and 3 over the phone, I realize if I need things done right, and get clean pool, I need to do it my self.

Thank you ALL for this forum!

Here is my setup:
Inground oblong shape pool
Vinyl
Capacity - 35600 Gallons
Filtration - DE
Heater - natural gas

pool on 05_15_16.jpg

Just got all plumbing fixed myself, washed DE filter, changed pressure gauge, fixed drain cap (someone butchered so bad, I was tinging how to cut another thread on that drain hole, but no new cap holds )
I got 25psi and strong current.

I ordered test kit:
1 - TF-100 Test Kit ™ @ $83.00
Optional Items : XL Option

Before I start adjusting water chemistry, do I need to add DE?
It's running with no DE at this moment

Thanks
Aram
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!

You should never ever run the filter without DE. At this point you likely need to pull the filter apart and make sure all the grids are not clogged up.

You can also add one jug of bleach daily until your test kit arrives and you can start getting the chemistry straightened out. The SLAM process is certain in your future.
 
Thank you Jason for reply.
After reading your post, I left work a little earlier, came home and start opening filter ...
WOW, it was just as dirty as I started two days ago, but this time grids was light green color and it was different type of dirt, it was allot harder to wash out.
I did my best, and I think grids are clean again.
All back together, pressure 15psi, Vari-Flow is set on "Filter"
I added 6 scoops of DE, and 15 min later one scoop of bleach.(will add more in the morning)

Question: at the deepest part I still have algae, and I am sure some leafs etc... what is the best way to clean all that stuff out?
It's 8 feet deep and water not clear yet so I can't even see how much is there. Robot?
 
neil.corrigan12 said:
You just wasted your money with those companies pretending to know what their doing. With this age of information you can get you can do it your self. Not only you save money you also learn new stuff and know how to maintain the pool.
Click to expand...

Neil, I was under impression that all this people are professionals, they do this everyday 2 -3 pools
they should know this better. But did not work And the most important, it's when people in any profession what's to get reach overnight :laughblue:
 

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Hello All,
Thanks Dave for the link, I got the SPX1600AA Hayward Super pump housing, some washers, about $35-$40 more expensive than anywhere else, but I got it anyways.
So just replaced it all parts and new gaskets I think I got much stronger water pressure now. Since the pressure when up I start hearing hissing noise, looks like air gets in the system from somewhere ...

Can someone advice me on this valves:

valve.jpg

What is that port for?
It has a black silicon and looks like it has a hole in it too, I can feel the air gets in when put my finger on it.
Other valve in the system has a cap, but still can't figure out what is it for

Aram
 
Hi Jason, there is no thread for cap, as far as I can see...
I start worry because last night I lost siphon. I stopped the pump, and started in 2-3 min, siphon came back up ...
Is there any easy technique to locate where is air gets in the the system?

Thank you
Aram
 
Sorry I meant Suction Side Air Leaks, still trying to figure out what is going on with plumbing...
Quick question on chemistry, how much chlorine I need to add to 37k gallons of water so TF-100 can pickup a reading?
I added 3 Pool Shock Plus (left over chems) and 3 jugs of 8.5% bleach, in the morning I did my first test ...
I got no FC registering
 
Some plumbing issues are resolved, so main issues still exist.
The problem is that when I switch my Multi port valve to Filter position (DE filter), I loose my water circulation in 24 hrs.
When valve is set on Circulation, I get very strong current from all 3 jet's all the time.

Wile I'm investigating my plumbing issues, I try to balance the chemistry:
So far I have:
FC- 4.5ppm
CC- 0.5ppm
TC- 5ppm
CH- 100ppm
TA- 20ppm
CYA- 37ppm
pH- <6.8

Water is blue but very murky, I was hopping to get it clear so I can see what's going on in the deep part of this pool, I think some serious vacuuming need to be done, or maybe not .

And my last question:
How much Chlorine need to be in the water to kill this bug?
water-boatman-2.jpg

I have seen 2, maybe I have more

Thanks!
 
Hey, I've got a few of those bugs. My FC is 15 from the solar cover being on and me not turning down my SWG. I don't think FC bothers them.

Raise your PH asap, like right now if you can. It could be much lower than 6.8 since that is the bottom of the test range. It will dissolve the copper out of your heat exchanger, ruin your liner and all sorts of bad things. More here kn ways to raise PH, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

It is very important to keep PH between 7.2 and 7.8.
 
Still waiting for some plumbing parts...
I did add some BORAX based on PoolCalculator results ... and over night I got pH 7.8, and in 2 days 8.5
and no FC. Any idea what may cause this?
Start adding tap water, just to bring the water level up and lower some pH (my tap water is very soft)

Also water is milky, I can see all 4 steps, shallow part is OK too, but deep side is milky.
 
Hello All.
I fixed all plumbing issues, with local pool company (micro air leaks was braking siphon!)
Mastered Pool Chemistry, but let me tell you it's a royal pain if you miss 3-4 sunny days, and did not check the chem levels, pool slowly turns to a "pea soup", and start all over again :)
Between summer vacations, some business trips I may have to think about some type of automation for next summer, or may be switching to Salt with IntellipH Canister.

From experience, is it easier to maintain?

Thank you!

PS I have pretty complex Aquarium systems, and to me they are allot easier to maintain LOL
 

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