First opening...first real thread. 30' radiant ABG with 4" coping.

doc8404

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Sep 13, 2015
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Rome, NY
Mods: Please move if wrong forum. Just getting excited about my new TF100 kit coming tomorrow or Tuesday so I’m starting my own thread!

Closed November with 8ppm FC (dipstick) and 20 or so oz of

Kem-Tek 311-6 Algaecide 60% Concentrate.


Opened 5/1/16, crystal clear!
Dipstick readings (as I await my kit)
TH 250
TC 3
FC 3
pH 7.2+
TA 120
CYA 0-30

Added about 12oz (don't ask why. I still don't know other than being nervous about algae).

Kem-Tek 311-6 Algaecide 60% Concentrate


Added 6” of water (30% of that was rain, the remainder was softened well water, 7.6 pH and TA of 160 with dipstick).
Pics from opening day...then readings and questions below.









5/6/16 (dipstick)
TH 250
TC 3
FC 3
PH 6.8-7.0
TA 120
CYA 0-30
Added 2# Bioguard smart shock (apparently has copper and di or trichlor so my CYA will go up)
Pump on 24/7


5/15/16 (dipstick)

TH 250
TC 2 (looked to be a color between 1.0 and 3.0, so that’s a 2.0 to me)
FC 2
PH 7.2
TA 120
CYA 30-50


Comments:
1) I know the dipstick isn’t worth much
2) I know the bioguard is expensive and can be a PITA with copper and CYA...but hey, it brought it up already where I want it!

Question:
1) Anything I need to do right now? Pump running on timer 0630-1030 and 2:00p-8:30p. Didn’t want to add anything with the test kit being here in a dayor two.
2) Any guesses at what I might find with the test kit?



 
Hi Doc! :wave: Nice pool and set-up you have there against the decking. The only thing I would say right now is wait. I can't tell you how badly those test strips are. Your numbers may be quite different with the TF-100. I would also recommend not adding anymore pool store chemicals. My concern right now is depending upon the amount of copper in the Bioguard, will it effect the water or open-up the potential for staining? I sure hope not. Had you not added anything, we could've used the Poolmath calculator to give you pinpoint accuracy numbers for adding stabilizer, but we don't want to take that chance now since you seem to be showing some CYA level. Perhaps just add about 1/2 gallon of regular bleach each day until the kit arrives. Once it does, post a full set of numbers and we can help with some accurate information. Have a great day.
 
Re: First opening...first real thread. 30' radiant ABG with 4" coping.

Thanks. Kit is here. I'm going to try to test this evening. I don't know if I will have time and then will be away from my pool for three days.

If I don't have time , I should probably do a total chlorine and pH test and go from there

- - - Updated - - -

All the smart shock and silk smart sticks I have include di or trichlor and copper!
Maybe I can give it to my mother-in-law for her inground pool LOL
 
2:50 pm EST
5/16/16
Partly cloudy all day. Currently sunny. Solar cover has been on for several days, pump is running approximately 10 hours per day on a timer with two separate cycles.

TF100 (K-1000 kit for first two results)
ph 7.5-7.7. Certainly wasn't 7.5 and wasn't at the next reading of 7.8
Cl Same as the dipstick. 1.0+ but not 2.0

CYA. Same as the dipstick.
did twice. Once in garage and once outside with back to sun. Looks like 45 to me. Isn't 40 and isn't 50.

TA. Twice as high as dipstick if I read correctly.
Started to turn a nice pink or light red at 210 (21 drops). Darkest at 250 and I kept going to 33 drops to see if it would change and it didn't.

Questions
1) what is needed next for chemicals? Hoping household bleach is it until weekend.
2) regarding my above guesses of ranges when not 100% one number or another, which result is it?

Maybe I got some good dipsticks? :)
Aquachek 7.
Thanks.
 
Last edited:
We should first round-up your CYA to 50 which means your target (daily) FC level should be about 6 - never below 4. For that you do need to use regular bleach. pH appears to be good for now, although with your TA as high as it is pH should climb frequently until you can lower TA a bit. Many pools require a "SLAM" when opening, but your water looks great and was quite new just before closing. So I would suggest increasing the FC and watching the pH for now. Watch FC closely each day. If you lose a lot each day (more than 4ppm) you may need to SLAM. You can also do an overnight (OCLT) test to confirm the need to SLAM. Once you receive your TF-100, you'll be able to test that FC really accurately (and higher) as I mentioned above. The key to your chlorine is the "Chlorine/CYA Chart" link below in my sig. Always know your CYA and what your FC should be and you're halfway there.

The only unknown variable right now is the copper. If those products didn't add too much, you might be fine. If you start to notice a green tint, dark stains, or people's hair turning green, well ...... then you know. :)
 

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Re: First opening...first real thread. 30' radiant ABG with 4" coping.

Thank you. Please note these numbers came from the TF 100 today.

- - - Updated - - -

Is the K1000 "chlorine" test the same as FC?
 
Re: First opening...first real thread. 30' radiant ABG with 4" coping.

gotcha. So I need to use the FAS-DPD to get my FC this weekend. Tonight would be idea but may not happen.
If I can, great. Thanks for your patience...and you got me to use my K-1000, TF100 AND the calculator with the CYA/chlorine chart....now we're cooking!

Using the pool calculator, it appears I should add 5 quarts of 5.25% household bleach from Walmart.

- - - Updated - - -

I was surprised several tests were the same as the dipstick myself.
 
It looks like 1.5 gallons of Wal-Mart's Great Value (8.25%) bleach should take your FC to about 7. Each gallon is about 3.5 ppm of FC if that helps. Now if you grab Wal-Marts liquid pool chorine (10%), then 1 gallon raises FC by about 4 ppm.
 
Re: First opening...first real thread. 30' radiant ABG with 4" coping.

Thanks again. I will have to look at the store today or tomorrow. The gallon of Clorox I have at home says 5.25%.

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My biggest worry is bleaching the liner prematurely. Last year I ran the pool at 2 to 3 ppm, of course based on the dipstick, and never had any issues. Then again it was a fresh pool.
 
Started to turn a nice pink or light red at 210 (21 drops). Darkest at 250 and I kept going to 33 drops to see if it would change and it didn't.
Doc, the TA is one where once it goes from green to that Barbie pink/red, that's it. Once you reach a point where the last drop no longer changes the effect/shade of that bright pink, then that's it. So it sounds like you were right around the 250 mark. That's high and will probably effect your pH by pulling it up faster than normal, but we can address that once everything else settles down, or you can start getting familiar with the acid/aeration method to lower TA as noted on the TFP Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity page.
 
Here we go. Using the TF-100 with speed stir (the latter is worth the extra $)
Ran most tests twice to confirm.

FC 2.0
CC 0.0
TC 2.0
TA 250
CH 350
CYA 50
pH 7.6 (guess the K1000 kit is the only thing I have for this test)

Solar cover is on. Can remove partially if I need to aerate with my return. I did that last year and it worked well.
 
Nice! So now you know that with a CYA of 50, your target FC is 6, so you want to be in that 5-7 range - never below 4. So raise that just a little bit more. I would be careful to not add any pool store products like Cal-Hypo that may contain calcium. While CH is not normally an issue for vinyl, you are at the top end right now. pH is picture perfect. So raise FC a bit and keep an eye on things there Doc. If the water clarity changes or gets cloudy, do an overnight (OCLT) right away. Let us know if you have any more questions.
 

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