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Thread: Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Steps?

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    Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Steps?

    Trying to open this pool this summer and trying to figure everything out.

    (1) Observations
    Pool was green and visibility low. Went to pool store to get chlorine and algaecide per store's instructions. This seemed to help clear up the pool but still noticing a few oddities. Pool stills seems cloudy, there are some yellow-brown stains I can't seem to get rid of from a few places in the pool, and the chlorine wasn't holding according to another kit I had. I checked online, found this site, ordered a new kit, and here I am.

    (2) Do these numbers seem right?

    These are the numbers from tonight at 9:00 pm:

    FC 0.2
    CC 0.6
    PH 7.8
    TA 240
    CH 875
    CYA 0

    (3) Next Steps?
    Based on the reading that I've been doing on this site and the booklet, should I focus first on getting the CYA level to between 30-40 before thinking about the chlorine levels and tackling the stain issues?

    Thanks for any guidance or help. I really hope to do my best in taking care of this great pool for me and my family. Thank you!
    ~15,000 Gallon, Kidney Shaped, IG Plaster Pool (unsure of when built)
    Hayward S311SXV Pro-Series 30" w/2-inch slide valve - 1.65 HP Pool Pump
    Taylor K2006 Test Kit

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    Re: Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Ste

    Since I seem to be awake at 2am for some reason, i'll try and help a bit.

    Glad to see you ordered a good test kit.

    For now, yes, get some CYA in there for sure. Hang it in front of a return in a sock or something so it will dissolve into the water. After you've done that, use pool math to figure out how much bleach to add to get to SLAM levels. Read the SLAM article over and over again. You'll be SLAMming for a few days probably. Keep your FC above SLAM level until your pool is "Crystal" clear and you pass the other 2 tests. Which you wont know you passed until you get your kit.

    Clear any debris and brush brush brush the sides to make sure all the green is stirred up.

    Others will be along shortly with better advice in the morning i'm sure.

    If you can find "Liquid Pool Shock" its usually stronger than regular clorox, but regular bleach works perfect. Not splashless, or scented...Just plain ol bleach. Pour the bleach in front of a return so it gets mixed in real well. If i were you, i'll get CYA in there and then dump a gallon in there to get started. I'd keep adding a gallon every day until i got my kit. If you have any kind of test kit now....strips, anything to test for FC it would be better than nothing. Just make sure you keep FC high till you get your kit or you'll go green again overnight.


    Links to Pool School and How to SLAM are in my signature below.....Be sure to read them both...



    I got bored....For your pool, if you get CYA to 20, SLAM level is 10. CYA of 30, its 12 FC. Hope that helps. And if you're sitting at FC of close to 0, you're looking at a little over 2 gallons of regular 8% Clorox to get to FC of 12.
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    Re: Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Ste

    Before you throw anything in, isn't that calcium hardness way too high?
    Does he not have to drain and refill some of the water?

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    Re: Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Ste

    Welcome to TFP

    great job laying everything out, let me see what we have going on here.... I take it you have been using pucks for a while, I think we have something going on that may have saved you but I want to make sure..

    CYA test: did it go all way to the top and you were able to see the dot or were you not able to see it. these answers will give us the info we need to start up

    Your CH is high but can be dealt with...

    let us know
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    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Ste

    Quote Originally Posted by BellissimoH2O View Post
    Before you throw anything in, isn't that calcium hardness way too high?
    Does he not have to drain and refill some of the water?
    That's pretty common in AZ and other western states. The fill water is just hard, hard, hard!

    As long as he is aware and keeps an eye on his pH (keeping it at the lower end of the recommended range) he will avoid scale.
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    Re: Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Ste

    Was able to finally get to the store to get key ingredients.

    CYA in sock = genius! Most of the 5 pounds has already dissolved in less than 7 hours, with a little squeezing to help.

    I also introduced 2 gallons of 10% chlorine to start to get those numbers up as well.

    I will test tomorrow morning and give an update with numbers!
    ~15,000 Gallon, Kidney Shaped, IG Plaster Pool (unsure of when built)
    Hayward S311SXV Pro-Series 30" w/2-inch slide valve - 1.65 HP Pool Pump
    Taylor K2006 Test Kit

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: Opening Pool - (1) Observations, (2) Do these numbers seem right?, & (3) Next Ste

    Welcome to TFP!

    Time for some chemistry! With CH and TA high and CH inevitably going up you will need to actively manage your CSI to acoid calcium scale. The only way to lower CH is to partially drain water and refill. Capturing rain water is helpful. Also, lowering the water level before rain helps.

    Your TA is very high and that will lead to PH rise so check your PH daily until you get a good understanding of how it behaves. Adding muriatic acid to lower PH will also lower TA slowly over time. Or you can actively lower TA following this process, Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity. You are probably going to want it in the 60-80 range. You should probably retest TA making sure to hold the bottle vertically and let the drops fully form and wipe the tip on a damp towel/cloth/paper towel to remove static from the tip.

    Managing PH is going to be important. Waterfalls, bubblers, etc aerate the water and make PH go up.

    Poolmath will calculate your CSI after your enter your test results. Keep your number between 0 and -0.3 to prevent scale.

    More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling
    and here, Langelier and Calcite Saturation Indices (LSI and CSI)
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