Hello- Need advice on slamming to kill algae

[JMyrick106]

Greetings,

Great forum. I have been visiting this site for some time and I have learned a great deal
and am still learning. So thanks to all who have provided input here . Every year I think I have it figured out but every year it's something new. This year I'm dealing with a swamp. Usually I would drain, pressure wash and refill but I've grown tired of that method. So after checking a few YouTube videos (they make it seem really easy and fast) I'm trying to clean it up chemically. I getting close but need some advice ---

i started the slam process about 2-1/2 weeks ago using sodium hypo (10%) from Walmart . I was putting several gallons in at a time in an attempt to raise the FC to 10-12 (ppm) - this is what I had read at the the time that I needed to maintain in order to kill the algae (based on a 16,000 gallon In ground pool). Well I did not realize how fast the chlorine was burning off so the first week of attempting to slam I was one step forward ( green was getting lighter) but 3 steps back as the chlorine was burning up really fast and apparently I was not putting in enough chlorine to maintain that level of 10-12 ppm. So the green was coming back (not as dark as when I started ) but clearly I was not doing it corrctly I also think the sodium hydro from Walmart had degraded some and wasn't strong enough or I wasn't putting in enough for the amount of algae I had initially. I also put in one bottle of "Swamp treat " from united chemical with the initial dose of sodium hydro hoping to see same results I saw in YouTube . I did see some some change but nothing like the videos. So after the first week i had hit a plateau and came
to conclusion it was time for another plan of action. I also added a bottle of the cheap Algecide (didn't know at the time) and the whole pool foamed up and it took several days for that to clear out - I have also had 4 -6 3" tri Chlor tabs in the floater during this whole process--

After reading more I saw that I needed to be at 30 ppm to kill the algae vs 10-12 ppm?? So I went and got come granular cal hypo (68%) as I figured this would also raise the CH as it was low. So starting on 5/6 I added 5 lbs calcium hypo , then another 4 lbs 5/7, 2 lbs 5/8 and 1.5 lbs 5/9-5/12. I have been brushing daily (oversight initially) and backwashing at least once a day wi filter running 24/7. I
Ran the pump on recirculate the first 2 days as I was not there to backwash and the filter was clogging fast . So I did not start filtering until Sunday night (5/8).

I've been checking the water daily and as of today this is what I'm reading

FC- really high but not sure the #. The tester I have stops at 4(see pic). I have a Taylor kit as well but i guess the reagents can expire as I get no chlorine reading when I test chlorine with the Taylor but with my other Walmart kit (see pic) I get a high Reading. I'm attempting to stay at 30 ppm but not sure how close I am to this - I'm just adding the cal hypo amount based in what I have read to get a 16k pool to 30 ppm. (1.3 lbs of cal hypo increased chlorine 10 ppm for 15k pool?)

Ph-8.0 + (see pic)-- is the shock causing the high ph? I thought cal hypo did not raise ph?

TA- 70
CH- 150
CYA-50

what next? Keep shocking ? How will I know all algae is dead? Pool is on bluer side of green (see pic) but it s still green and milky but btetter than a week ago.

Should I floc? Use more Algecide? Or just be pAtient and keep slamming?

hooefully I've explained my process corrctly- any feedback greatly appreciated

I'm attaching 3 pics of pool - dark green (start), light green with foam( that was 5/6 before I added cal hypo) and today 5/12 blue/green/Milky (almost a week of shocjing w cal hypo)

and 2 pics of of my water Readings this evening -


thanks!

james

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello James and welcome to TFP! Looks like your pics didn't upload, but not to worry, we can help you anyways. In fact, you appear to have three major roadblocks at the moment:
1 - You do not have the proper test kit
2 - You are simply not following the "SLAM" procedures to kill the algae
3 - You are not following TFP principles and using pool store products that show not only that they don't work, but are adding by-products to your water.

James, you must have the right test kit (see TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) link below). I recommend the TF-100 with XL option and speed stir. Everything you do with your water begins with the proper levels. Anything else is just guessing and wasting your time and money on treatments. To perform a SLAM you need the proper test kit, lots of bleach applied properly over time, and patience. And you definitely cannot add a myriad of products to the water that will not only fail at clearing the algae, but will add metals to the water and/or have drastic effects on other chemical levels.

For now I would simply order a TF-100 as noted above. Until the kit arrives, rely on regular (generic) bleach by adding about 1/2 each day only to try and keep things from getting worse. Once your kit arrives, we can help you clear that water, but you must have those accurate readings.

 

[woodyp]

Scratch the floc. Scratch the algaecide. Ph reading is inaccurate and reads falsely high with FC at 10 or better.

 

[cowboycasey]

Welcome to TFP... Your flying blindfolded, it looks like you have a K-2005 test kit, you will need new reagents and a FAS-DPD kit to test FC to the levels you are at..

You can do 2 things, buy new reagents for your kit and add the FAS-DPD
TFTestkits.net
TFTestkits.net

thats 76 plus shipping

or get a new TF100 + xl option This is what I have and it works, very well...
TFTestkits.net

that is 83...

Both options will work for you to know exactly what is going on...

I hope this helps

 

[JMyrick106]

Hello all,

Thanks for the advice. I just ordered the TF100 + XL kit per your recommendations so as soon as it arrives I will run the #'s and post so I can get the correct advice from you all. I must be headed in the correct direction this time as the pool is def on the bluer side of green now it is just cloudy/milky still. Not sure how to correct that but when I get the kit I suppose we can go from there. I have just been keeping the FC at > 4 ppm ( I assume this is all you need to keep any new algae from growing??) as I think all the old algae (shown in the original) pics is dead but I could be wrong as I usually am when it comes to pool maintenance.

On a side note I ordered a pressure gauge when I ordered the test kit... its a "Glycerin filled 2.5" bottom mount" and its on the TFTestkits website. Are all those universal sizes I presume? I have a Hayward Sand filter. Great site btw.. and good prices. Makes me realize how much $$ I have been wasting at Leslie's Pool Supply.

Speaking of.. I was in there Friday to get my water tested and of course they were selling me on some products based on the current status of the pool (see original post/pics). According to them all I need at this point is this product called "Rescue Klear" by Sea Klear. Its supposed to rescue/correct the cloudy pool issue I am having. I did not buy as I would rather get pool advice from this site.

Any thoughts on this product?

Thanks again and I'll be posting my #'s as soon as the kit arrives

James

 

[cowboycasey]

James, you just saved yourself some major money.. I think it is just a rebranded floc that you don't need.... Great job on the test kit, you will get there ?

I am using my phone so please excuse any spelling errors and short response.

 

[JMyrick106]

So I received my Test kit (TF100 + XL) and here are the #'s as of today

PH- 7.4
TA- 150 (I may need to retest as the bottle seemed to be dripping more liquid than I intended)
CH- 275
CYA-22
FC- 6
CC-1
TC-7

I feel pretty certain that the algae is all dead now (recent pics attached). I have kept the FC at high level until the test kit arrived as to prevent any new algae from growing. So now my issue is getting the water completely clear. I can see the dead white algae particles floating around. They cannot be filtered ( I have a sand filter) as I understand it so I have used a bottle flocculent and it completely cleared the water and all the algae sank to the bottom. I then proceeded to vacuum to waste and got a ton of the stuff out but not all. Some of the dead algae kicked up right back up off the bottom of the floor as I was vacuuming to waste......not matter how slow I tried to vacuum. Hard to go to slow when I see all the water pumping out and the $$ its costing. But anyhow is there a technique on vacuuming this stuff out to waste? A certain vacuum perhaps separate of the skimmer? I'm getting close ( I can still see the drain) but I've kicked some of the dead algae back up off the floor so the deep part of the pool Is still cloudy.

**should I just keep using a floc until I get it all? There has to be an easier way no?
** Is there anyway the sand filter will gradually filter this dead algae out (its/white in color not green at all)
** Has anyone heard of the " the slimebag" for pool filtration? http://www.slimebag.com/ If so would that help??

Also, since my CYA is low (approx. 22) I know I need to get that up to at least 30 (if anyone recommends higher please let me know). I did not fully underhand the relationship of CYA to chlorine until I found this site so I have a few questions if someone could educate me that would be great.

I bought the 3" tri chlor tabs and the 1lb Sodium dichlor (58.2%) shock bags before the season started. I did not know that these would constantly raise the CYA. Since my cya is low at the moment I can use them to get it up. But once it is up to say 30 and all other things are in balance it makes no sense to keep using either of these correct? The only way to lower cya is to drain the pool so It seems to me that I should not use either after my cya is 30 or so correct? Maybe I am overthinking this but that's why I am asking the experts. If the answer is no.. then surely they make a 3" tab that will not raise the cya correct? I know I can get some cal hypo shock and ill be ok with that but the tabs?

Lastly... can anyone tell me for a 15k pool... how much will a 1 lb bag of 58.2% sodium dichlor shock raise my cya? is there a calculator on here for that... of and the 3" tri chlor pucks as well.. how much will they raise the cya? what is the math or where can I find out how to calculate.

Thanks!!

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum.

Let's clear up some misconceptions first.

1. That TA of 150 is probably less than that. ignore it for now...we'll tweak it later

2.

They cannot be filtered ( I have a sand filter) as I understand it so I have used a bottle flocculent and it completely cleared the water and all the algae sank to the bottom.

Sand can get your pool crystal clear without floc. I would suggest you not use it again as it can often cause more problems than it cures.

3. You need to SLAM your pool. There is an article in Pool School that will show you how and you need to follow that to the letter.

4. You are playing patty cake with the debris in your pool. Don't try to sneak up on it. Brush it vigorously up into that highly chlorinated SLAM water and let your filter do it's job.

5. You would be better served if you would simply buy enough CYA to raise your pool to 40-50 ppm (in Suwanee) and save the pucks for vacations and times when you can't manually chlorinate.

6.
Get away from Cal Hypo (adds unwanted Calcium to your pool) and all the tabs and dichlor you want to use. They all add CYA. Liquid chlorine is the best way to manage your pool water.

7. PoolMath has a section at the bottom "affect on adding chemistry" that will do all the calculations you need but you don't need any Cal Hypo. Do your calculations on SLAMming with liquid Clorox and we'll help you get that pool crystal clear.

8. SLAM your pool....it'll be crystal clear.