Lost

[hate-a-pool]

These are my numbers. Now I'm lost what it means. pool math does not help as I do not now
What my goal number is. I have bought the test kit that was recomended by this site. Also where do you buy all these products that it says to add. I've never heard of most of these.

CDT-.05
CC-.05
CHT-125
TA-90
CYA-20
CI-.5
BR-1
PH-6.8

28,000gal rectangle pool

 

[Texas Splash]

I'll try to help get you going okay. Later though, you'll have to go back and read our Pool School page (link below). It's a must for understanding some of this. Now when you test with the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006, you want to post the following results:
FC (free chlorine) (use the R-0870 powder & R-0871 drops)
CC (combined chlorine)
CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer) Use the R-0013 clear liquid and skinny tube with black dot)
TA (total alkalinity) (green color reagents)
pH - red color reagent (5 drops)
CH (calcium hardness) - blue reagents

The instructions should be on the card. Once you write down each of these results, compare them to what your pool should have based on the "Recommended Levels" chart (link below). Then you go to the Poolmath calculator, enter your current (NOW) values, and desired (TARGET/GOAL) values, and it will tell you what to add and how much. Takes a little practice, but you'll get it. If you're not sure on a test or specific chemical, post back and ask.

 

[Richard320]

There's a steep learning curve but in about a week, you'll be a pro at testing and dosing.

CDT-.05 This is FC. .5. Low
CC-.05 CC .5 good
CHT-125 CH might be low. Depends on whether the inground pool is plaster/concrete or vinyl lined.
TA-90 Good
CYA-20 Low.
CI-.5 Matches the drop test. Not necessary to run this when you do the powder test except for practice or weird situations I don't want to go into right now
BR-1 Bromine. You aren't using it since that's mostly for stand alone spas. Ignore it from now on.
PH-6.8 Too low

A few questions for you, and then I'll answer the other stuff.
1) How does the water look? If it's clear, my advice will be much different than if it's green or cloudy
2) Do you have any pool store chemicals laying around that you can use? For instance, pH increaser is exactly the same as Soda Ash as Washing Soda. So don't go hunting for obscure laundry products if you already have some.

The chemicals you need right now are Cyanuric Acid aka Stabilizer aka CYA. You can find it at big box hardware stores in the patio section or at places like Walmart. Or even the pool store if that's more convenient. You need some Borax or Washing Soda, unless, as I said, you already have some. And you need to turn up the percentage on your SWG or run the pump longer to raise the FC.

Answer my questions and I can help you calculate how much you need to buy and add.

Bookmark these pages, you'll be using them a lot
ABCs

Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Pool School - PoolMath

 

[hate-a-pool]

The water is really cloudy. But looks good other wise.

 

[Richard320]

The water is really cloudy. But looks good other wise.

Cloudy is not good.

But we have a solution for that...

What you need is what we call a SLAM Process. It's like a pool store shock, but sustained long enough to actually do some good.

1) You need to shut off the SWG for now.
2) Raise pH to 7.2
3) Use bleach to raise FC to 10. Then brush everything and recheck every couple hours and keep the FC at 10 until everything clears up. It's all explained in SLAM Process
4) After the SLAM is done, then you can add more CYA and turn on the SWG. But that's a few days out. I know what you'll be doing this weekend!

 

[hate-a-pool]

Ok we have slammed all weekend and are going to continue until we are complete. How long does it usually take to slam as we are not at home during the week until the nights. Just check in the morning and after work?

 

[Richard320]

Ok we have slammed all weekend and are going to continue until we are complete. How long does it usually take to slam as we are not at home during the week until the nights. Just check in the morning and after work?

Fastest I've seen was three days. Mostly takes about a week, but the first two or three days are the worst. After that it's waiting for cloudiness to disappear.

You could probably turn on the SWG now to help maintain FC during the day. You do need it off to run the overnight loss test.

 

[kimkats]

you can get in 4 testing and redosing this way:

-first cup of coffere-test and redose

-home from work-take off shoes and good clothes-test and redose

-after dinner-glass of wine-test and redose

-right before bed-test and redose.

See if this is doable.

Kim:cat:

 

[hate-a-pool]

well I did some more reading today if you look at my first numbers my CYA was 90 in the slam section it says to stay around 30 today I plan on getting my CYA down and continue with the slam. once it goes down I figure the slam will work better. Whats your thoughts?

 

[kimkats]

It will use a LOT less chlorine so that is a good thing!

Kim:cat:

 

[hate-a-pool]

Ok i was way off on my last post. How does the CYA test work it says to make the solution and then put in tube until you can no longer see the black dot. My cya is a 20 i guess i never lose sight of the dot. Correct me if im wrong . I HAVE PUT IN OVER 16 GALLONS of the liquid chlorine. Is his about right? Checked it as soon as i got home from work fc was 0. Not sure im doing this right. Its not a easy as it sounds

 

[jblizzle]

Sounds like your cya might be close to zero and that is going to mean you're going to lose a lot of FC to the Sun every day.
Have you done an ammonia check? Add 10 PPM of FC and retest the FC and CC in 10 minutes

 

[hate-a-pool]

Ok i have been slamming for a week. Water is still cloudy but getting better slowly. real slow. What am i doing wrong? My wife starts swimming lessons Tuesday after next im freaking out it will not be ready. Its never taken me this long to clear it up. This is my first year doing tfp.

 

[Texas Splash]

Can you post a full set of results? We haven't seen anything since Jason recommended doing the 10-min FC test to rule-out ammonia on 16 May. Test results will help quite a bit.

 

[hate-a-pool]

Fc-11.5
Cc1.5
Ch 200
Ta. 110
Cya. 30
Ph. 7.5

Does this help. Im not aware of any other test besides these with the tf-100 test kit. I have not quit slamming yet but should tonight i hope.

 

[Texas Splash]

This is perfect. Sorry it took me so long to see it. Your numbers look very good actually - typical for a SLAM. So just keep that FC up at 12 as much as possible. Continue with all the things noted on the SLAM page. Continue with backwashing when the filter pressure increases by 25%. Day-by-day, the FC will hold better and overcome the algae. One more thing to ask ..... when was the last time (if ever) that the sand filter was "deep cleaned"?

 

[hate-a-pool]

5 yrs ago changed the sand.

- - - Updated - - -

Keep my numbers at 12? Iv been keeping them at 10 thats what it says. Educate me.

 

[Texas Splash]

Keeping the FC at 10 was during the early 10-minute drill process to ensure there was no ammonia. But now that you are holding FC, we can be sure there is no ammonia so you are off to the regular SLAM mode now. You'll want an ideal CYA of 30, and the corresponding FC for that is a SLAM/Shock FC of 12. You can see those match on the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below). In fact, over the months as weather and water conditions change, it's important to always ensure your FC and CYA match each other as noted on that chart. It's your best defense against algae. But for now... during the SLAM .... while your CYA is 30, make the FC 12.

- - - Updated - - -

As for the sand .... 5 years is a good stretch between a thorough cleaning. If you don't continue to see steady clarity and improvements over the next few days, it may be a good idea to do a deep cleaning as noted here: Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter.

 

[hate-a-pool]

Ok just bumped it up. When will it start to clear up. I cant vacum good decause i cant see i brush and net daily. There isn't a lot of leaves left but if it does clear soon so i can really vacum. My wife will ave to cancel swimming lessons

 

[Texas Splash]

Re-read your thread again very carefully and want to emphasize a few things now that you've been at this for 9 days now:
- The CYA test is absolutely critical. If you are confident in that CYA of 30 - great. If you have any doubt about the black dot disappearing and when, re-test and have a friend look and try it as well. You can pour the same solution back & forth as much as you want to get a good average. If it's below 30 you lose FC to the sun and hamper your SLAM effectiveness. If it's higher than 30, then your FC might need to be higher. Make sure to test CYA outside under a bright sun - sun at your back. I just had to emphasize that one.
- Next is the debris. If you have any large/bulk debris in the water, it must be removed. It will significantly slow-down your FC's effectiveness to clear the water. You can use a rake and any variety of pool netting products, but you have to keep working to ensure you have as much bulk debris removed as possible.

From there it's all about maintaining the FC with the current CYA. Pump on 24/7, sweeping/brushing, backwashing, etc. If you do a lot of backwashing, it could eventually lower your CYA, so be aware of that as well. All of these things work together during the SLAM - to include possibly having to deep clean the filter. But there is no mistaking that the bleach (chlorine) WILL kill algae and clear water when these processes are maintained.

- - - Updated - - -

Not sure if anyone mentioned this before ... but if you have a ladder or light in your pool, algae can/will grow inside or behind those items. It's always best to inspect really well. Remove the ladder if you have one, and look behind the light in the light niche if you have one of those as well.