New pool owner - I have lots to learn - cloudy pool water

[tko]

We just purchased a mid-century home, with a ~28k gallon pool (is what I'm told). It has had a saftety cover on it for a couple years, and we are opening it for the first time. Hired someone to come clean it, but the pump was broken so we had that replaced. Pump is working, sand filter looks fine, it only has one skimmer but that appears to be working. Pool store told me to shock it with 6lbs of a 25lb bucket they sold me. The pool cleaner told me to dump the rest of it in - it was labeled Oxidizer (granules). I dumped that in, scum floated to the top, then dissipated. Pool cleaner came and said Oxidizer is not shock, and added a few more pounds of Smart Shock in it - water is no longer green and dark, but what I would describe a "milky blue". He said it would take some days to become clear, then he'd come back and test the water and adjust. The pump has been running since Friday (so 3+ days), and I don't see the water getting any clearer. I'm told to be patient, but shouldn't some water testing happen right now? I know I need to read the ABCs of pool chemicals, but I'm so swamped right now with moving in and with work, so I would prefer to trust the pool cleaner guy - but not sure now if I need a second opinion. This thing is getting to be a money pit!

Please be kind - I'm a little overwhelmed right now - there's no heater but I don't even want to go there right now until we can get the water right.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Before we go any further .... STOP! Do not add another single item to your water until you first order a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. You must test the water yourself, provide us with good readings, and we'll show you how easy it is to do yourself. That's priority #1. Then review the links you see below in my signature. You will use all of them when your kit arrives. Believe us when we say we understand your frustration. We've ALL been in your shoes. The right test kit and some common household chemicals will do the trick.

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later. This link may also help you: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post.

 

[kimkats]

TKO! You do have your hands full right now! The LAST thing you need is something else to worry about

For right now do as Pat says and order a good test kit. I really do suggest the TF-100XL due to your pool being green (or cloudy blue) as you will be using a lot of regents to get it clear.

Until you test kit gets there you can add a jug of plain bleach from Target or Walmart with the pump running. That will keep it from getting any worse!

Don't you already love TFP?? Bleach! Yeah, cheap bleach to clear your pool! Neat huh??

Kim :cat:

 

[Casey]

Welcome to TFP. Hopefully you've ordered a test kit and started reading Pool School.

 

[tko]

Oh wow - so I don't know why, but I'm only starting to see these messages! I ordered the TF100 test kit last night, but not before getting my water tested at the local pool store (yes, yes, I know - I was desparate!). Anyhoo, the numbers were:

FC: .84
CC: .29
PH: 7.1
TA: 57
CH: 179
CYA: 3
Copper: .1
Iron: .1

I used the Poolmaster 2260 test kit (I know, I know...), it appeared to confirm FC, PH, and TA, I plugged the numbers into the PoolMath calculator so we did the following last night (after vacumming most of the gunk from the bottom of the pool earlier this week):

Added 1 gallon of 10% bleach (waited half hour) (to address FC)
Added a box (4lb 10oz) borax (that Mule brand thingy from Walmart, waited a couple hours and went out for dessert) (to address pH)
Added 15 lbs Arm&Hammer baking soda (to address low TA)

When I tested the water (with the possible loser test kit), it showed (as best as can be determined by squinting at the color matches):
FC: ~2.2
pH: ~7.4
TA: 80 (a dang duck distracted me by landing in the pool, so I may have lost track of drop count, but it's 7-8 drops, pretty sure it was 8)

Now, I have 3 stockings floating in front of my returns full of 98% CYA. About 3 lbs as I'm unable to locate any more stockings at the moment. I think I have to go buy more stabilizer/CYA eventually.

Now I'm wondering if I should've SLAM'd the pool...and on the shallow end, it's got black stains that are hard to brush off and I can't tell if it's dirt or black algae. I was thinking not the latter because it didn't seem like I lost chlorination over night.

I did read the ABC's and other articles in Pool School, but may not have synthesized the knowledge well yet. Yes, I do love TFP already! Thanks for your patience. I need to go scare a raccoon out of my pond now...

 

[RobbieH]

You will know pretty soon, but there's a chance you may have to. See if you can pass the overnight chlorine loss test.
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

You can leave TA alone now. No need to adjust it if it's 70-80.

 

[Mr Bruce]

You cannot SLAM your pool until you have a proper test kit, so I would recommend adding a half bottle of bleach every day and waiting on your kit.

Also, could you add your pool info to your signature? Size, type, etc.

 

[tko]

Thanks - TA was 57 and is ok now. I did read that link yesterday, so tested at night and again this morning, and the FC appeared to not have changed. Once I get the TF100 I'll test again.

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, will do - half bottle of the 10% (I got it in pool section at Walmart, but have to run across town for it). Or half bottle of the 6-8.25% ok if I run to the nearest grocery store?

 

[Mr Bruce]

Chlorox 8.25% or similar is fine.

 

[RobbieH]

Any bleach (non-scented, don't get non-splash, etc) is just fine. Just know the percentage and adjust on Pool Math accordingly.

 

[tko]

Re pool math - what am I shooting for if this is just to follow Mr. Bruce's advice of maintaining with a half gallon of bleach daily til my kit comes? Should I just add half a gallon a day and call it good? I'm expecting my kit sometime next week I suppose if I just ordered it last night.

 

[RobbieH]

Half gallon a day is a good target.

Pool math will fill in your targets for you. Near the bottom you put in your pool type (plaster), chlorine source (bleach) and target source of troublefreepool.

 

[tko]

How long does it take to get the test kit from the time you order it? I'm in Oregon.

There was a lot of dirt/sand/pine needles at the bottom of the pool, and we vacuumed the majority to waste. Now, we let our Polaris get the rest of it - however, I'm wondering if that's a bad idea...in case I have algae issues - could I be doing more harm? A couple weeks ago, the water had a slight green tint to it, but our pool guy put some shock in it (I can't really say that he shocked it), and it turned cloudy blue. It's back to clear-ish with a greenish tint, until we run the Polaris and it stirs up the silt. I'm cleaning lots of gunk out of the Polaris pouch. I guess I'll post a picture tomorrow if I can figure out how.

 

[tko]

This first picture was a week after pool guy added shock, and the contents settled:


We vacuumed most of that stuff to waste.

- - - Updated - - -

When we started up the Polaris, the water got cloudy kind of like this (but most of the black stuff is gone). Sorry, didn't get any pictures from today but this looks pretty close as far as color and cloudiness.

 

[kimkats]

You are heading in the right direction. Mr. Bruce has you doing the correct thing. The 1/2 jug is to keep things from getting worse until your test kit can get there.

Keep the cleaner going. The more stuff you get out now the easier it will be to clear. That stuff on the bottom is dead or dying algae.

Kim:cat:

 

[tko]

Ok, thank you! I'll turn the Polaris back on. When I clean out the bag, it looks like pine needles and sand mostly...with some gray scum. So from what you can see, it looks like I have algae? I was hoping that it wasn't. I ordered a brush with stainless steel bristles - is that ok to use on the walls (esp shallow end where you can see the black ring)?

 

[Mr Bruce]

Yes, if you have a brush that is both nylon and stainless bristles that is great for your plaster. It probably is algae, it's ok you don't look too far gone, so your SLAM should be relatively quick.

 

[tko]

Is all metal acceptable and not harmful? I have both kinds but not in a combined brush.

 

[pooldv]

As long as the plaster is more than a year old all SS is fine.

 

[tko]

Thanks, the inspector guessed it was resurfaced 5 years ago. I am actually not sure if it is plaster or not - can anyone tell by the pictures? The guy I hired to clean my pool (came twice and it still looks crappy so he's gone) kept saying "it's just concrete", but from comparing with some pictures I've seen, I deduced surfaced with plaster. Thoughts?