First test. Please help:)

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E Murph

E Murph

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Bronze Supporter
May 10, 2016
47
Middletown, Pennsylvania
Ok. I got my Taylor K-2006 test kit today. I was so excited, now I'm really worried.
Quick background, I couldn't get a chlorine reading after adding tons of shock as per my old (I'm never going there again) pool store. I found this site (thank goodness!) and discovered I had ammonia in my pool. I quickly bought into this system and before receiving my me kit decided to start adding bleach. I put 20 gallons in before the ammonia disappeared and I got a chlorine reading! I was very happy. The chlorine level held high according to my old strips and today I got my kit. Here are the accurate results from my first test.
Free chlorine 14
combined chlorine 2
ph is below 7. It took 20 drops to get it to 7.6
hardness 290
CYA 165. Ugh:(
im trying to figure out the pool math system now but would really appreciate some advice here.
I know the cya is a big problem the chlorine is so high maybe I'm not getting a good reading? Also the water is only abut 63 degrees. Not sure if that's an issue?
thank you!
 
Chlorine and temperature will have little to no effect on CYA. How did you get a reading of 165? :scratch:

Did you test your TA? With your pH so low I would be very concerned about that.
 
first I did it like the directions said and the black dot disappeared before the solution made it to the 100 mark, so I diluted it with clean spring water and it was still not on the scale, I diluted it to a third strength and got a reading of 55. I multiplied it by three and got 165. Is that accurate? It seemed to me it should be? at least its close and I certainly have way too much of the nasty stuff! I don't trust anything my old pool company told me but they told me up to 150 was ok for a plaster pool.
Should I adjust the PH now? or get the chlorine under control? Thank you!

- - - Updated - - -

I tested everything at the same time. So yes the TA test was taken with the very low PH level. You think maybe the TA is not accurate?
Can I up the PH now with Borax? Poolmath seems to say I should add 100oz??
 
You need to drain a significant portion of your water to get the CYA down to manageable levels. Like 2/3 of it. It might even make some sense to drain it all, clean it all up while empty, and start over.
 
Your CYA test doesn't make any sense, if your CYA is under 200 then the first dilution test should have registered a reading. Are you sure you didn't do a 4:1 test and your CYA is actually around 220?

I don't see a TA test anywhere, if it is zero then you will want to adjust that up first.
 
I was afraid of that. When is the new water due? If in the next day or so I wouldn't bother with your current water and wait until your new water gets here.

Strange reading with your pH being so low and TA relatively good. But no reason to go about messing with water that will be dumped soon. When you get the new water filled let it mix for an hour or so, retest and we will help you get things straightened out.
 
Thank you very much. The water is coming Friday. I read that the TA test may not be accurate with such high cya? I can't believe how much I have learned in a few days and how poorly the pool company who sold me the pool has treated me. Thanks again! Can't tell you how much I love this site. They had me drain it a few years ago, told me total disolved solids were high (1800) I now have a tds tester and that reading was 1020 which apparently isn't such a big deal? At least starting with fresh water I won't be spending hardly anything to get it started!
theres a nature 2 cartridge on the system. Should I just leave it or take it out?

thanks!
 

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I would get some bleach in right away so algae doesn't have a chance to gain any hold. Are you literally dumping everything or are you keeping a bit of your old water?

Oh, just saw. Pull the Nature2. TDS is generally not a helpful parameter, used to be helpful before we could test for all the things we can now, but nowadays it is next to useless. Of course, can't tell the old school pool store owners that.
 
We don't care about TDS around here.

When you get a test kit post your numbers. pH will probably be the first order of business. TA is last. Yes take out the Nature 2 please.
 
It's supposed to be a 15,000 gallon pool but maybe they lied about they too? Haha
im getting 12,000 gallons delivered. I was thinking of leaving a little bit? I have this fear of my pool popping out of the ground without the weight of the water in it? I could always top it off with my garden hose but we are on a well and I worry about iron or who knows what else? In case you haven't noticed I worry about everything:)
brand new $129 nature 2 cartridge coming out now:(
 
I understand, that is how I felt when I took out a relatively new Frog cartridge. But considering the last 6 years I have saved hundreds a season by not using it I call that a positive gain. Let your new water stay metal free.

If you keep 3000 gallons you will not need to add much if any CYA to the new water so yes keeping some in there is a good idea. Once you add the new water and let it mix for a while run a full set of tests and bring your FC up to the target based on what your CYA reading is. Then adjust your pH and TA if needed. Then your calcium and CYA if needed. Then you can start to settle in on your new care routine and within a couple of weeks it will seem all so simple you will wonder why you ever worried :)
 
Great advice! Thank you!
i assume it would be good the backwash my DE filter while draining and then recharge it with the new water? I use the pure fiber. I read on here that it is the same as DE? I just want to make sure I get it right with the cost of all this new water.
Thanks again!
 
I'm not familiar with that DE substitute, someone else would have to comment.

You don't necessarily need to backwash if your filter is still working. Up to you if you would feel more comfortable doing it though, should be no harm to that.
 
It's going to take two loads of water to refill. They just left with the first load. The water comes from a local municipal supply. I know I should wait for all the water and run the pump a little before doing a full test but I am concerned about CH being a plaster pool. I quick tested the hardness and got a reading of about 80! Should I fix that first? Can I add the bleach and everything all at the same time? Pool math says I need about 25lb of calcium chloride to fix CH?
i just want to get this right. Thanks!
 
Doing it right and impatience rarely go together ;) Get all the water in and run the pump before doing more tests. Let us know what they are then and we can help guide you from there.

From my HTC One via Tapatalk
 
Ok. Here are my numbers with 13,000 gallons of new water:

FC .4
CC .2
PH 7.4
TA 160
CH 140
CYA 50 should this reading be taken outside? I can see the black dot better outside.

I I plugged it all into pool math. I'd sure appreciate advice too. Especially with timing, what first etc? I know I need to get the bleach in asap

Thanks
 
Test CYA outside standing in full sun, with the sun behind you, and the tube held in the shade of your body near your waist. :)

You can save reagents by using a 10ml sample - multiply drops by .5 - it's accurate enough for our purposes.

I'll let someone else who has more experience comment on the rest, but yes, get that FC level up quick!
 

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