Just looking for a little help. I have Hayward Aqua rite salt generator with a t-15 cell. The power light and the generating light are green but no chlorine being generated. The voltage reads 25-26 with 5-7 amps. After a few minutes the voltage goes to 31.6 with the amp reading going to 0.0. Took the cell to Leslie's pools to have it tested and they say it passed. Salt reading is at about 3000. Any help would be appreciated as I am not a professional.
Hayward aqua rite with t-15 cell help
- Thread starter Barnrat1113
- Start date
Can you post all of the diagnostics.
Is the salt reading from the system or a water test?
Is the salt reading from the system or a water test?
Sounds like it's running fine and then shuts off.
1. What is the output % set to? The unit only runs full on. The % just controls how long it's fully on during a given 180 minute cycle. After a period of time mine doesn't produce chlorine either. That's normal.
2. What happens when you run it in super chlorinate? The is telling the unit to stay ON all the time.
3. What is the actual salt level of the pool tested independently of the Aqua Rite?
1. What is the output % set to? The unit only runs full on. The % just controls how long it's fully on during a given 180 minute cycle. After a period of time mine doesn't produce chlorine either. That's normal.
2. What happens when you run it in super chlorinate? The is telling the unit to stay ON all the time.
3. What is the actual salt level of the pool tested independently of the Aqua Rite?
Well I woke this morning and the readings were 2900, 82, 25.9, 6.19, 44p, -2900, al-1, r1.45. I have it sent to 80%, but even when I set it to super chlorinate there is no chlorine in the pool. The actual salt level is the same as what the aqua rite says it is. I'll check the chlorine level in the pool when I get home from work tonight. Usually the voltage reads over 30 and the amps are reading at 0.0.
Just because there is not chlorine in the pool doesn't mean there is something wrong with the cell.
Most likely the cell is working properly. You just happened to be looking at it when it was not supposed to be producing chlorine because it was set to something less than 100% or super chlorinate. Newer units run on a 180 minute cycle. So if it was set to say 50% it would produce chlorine for 90 minutes and sit idle showing 0 amps for 90 minutes while everything else was on. This cycle repeats unit the unit is depowered. You say it is set to 80% but the 44p in your readings indicates that it is set to 44%. There should be another reading in the data showing it's set to the correct cell size. t-something. Make sure it's t-15 for a T-15 cell. Finally, when the cell is showing amperage there are normally little bubbles coming out of the pool return closest to the cell. If you see bubbles it's working.
Now for the zero chlorine in the pool. One of two things is consuming all the chlorine that the cell generates. It's either sun or algae. Sun is easy. Do you know your CYA level? If there's no CYA there will be little or no chlorine. To determine if it's algae you need to do an OCLT followed by a SLAM. Instructions are in Pool School at the top of the page. My bet is that algae is eating all the chlorine the cell can produce. I've been there thinking I had a bad cell too.
Most likely the cell is working properly. You just happened to be looking at it when it was not supposed to be producing chlorine because it was set to something less than 100% or super chlorinate. Newer units run on a 180 minute cycle. So if it was set to say 50% it would produce chlorine for 90 minutes and sit idle showing 0 amps for 90 minutes while everything else was on. This cycle repeats unit the unit is depowered. You say it is set to 80% but the 44p in your readings indicates that it is set to 44%. There should be another reading in the data showing it's set to the correct cell size. t-something. Make sure it's t-15 for a T-15 cell. Finally, when the cell is showing amperage there are normally little bubbles coming out of the pool return closest to the cell. If you see bubbles it's working.
Now for the zero chlorine in the pool. One of two things is consuming all the chlorine that the cell generates. It's either sun or algae. Sun is easy. Do you know your CYA level? If there's no CYA there will be little or no chlorine. To determine if it's algae you need to do an OCLT followed by a SLAM. Instructions are in Pool School at the top of the page. My bet is that algae is eating all the chlorine the cell can produce. I've been there thinking I had a bad cell too.
The 44p means 44 percent. If the dial is set to 80, then the dial is beginning to go bad. 44% of 120 minutes is 53 minutes on and 67 minutes off. Then back on for 53 minutes etc.
If you remove the display board and spray it with electronics cleaner, that might help. Allow one hour for the cleaner to evaporate.
Check by pushing the diagnostics button until the percentage setting is displayed and turn the percentage knob to see if they match.
If not, you might need a new display board.
If you remove the display board and spray it with electronics cleaner, that might help. Allow one hour for the cleaner to evaporate.
Check by pushing the diagnostics button until the percentage setting is displayed and turn the percentage knob to see if they match.
If not, you might need a new display board.
Checked the box when I got home and noticed when I pushed in on the front plate it would click and the values would go to normal. When I let off the box would click again and the volts would go back up and the amps would go to 0.0. If that makes any sense. So I removed the cover plate and everything works. You were right JamesW. The dial is showing erratic percentages to what the dial is showing. I'll pick up some cleaner tomorrow and give that a try. Thanks for everything guys. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.
When the display board begins to act erratically, it’s usually bad connections with the pins from the back board or the dial controller is corroded or otherwise failing.
Remove the board, spray it with cleaner, allow it to dry well and reinstall.
The display board just pulls off. To reinstall, align the holes in the board with the pins and snap it in place.
Here’s a video.
How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB - YouTube
Electronic Contact Cleaner - WD-40 Specialist
Also make sure that the front panel is not pushing on the display components.
Remove the board, spray it with cleaner, allow it to dry well and reinstall.
The display board just pulls off. To reinstall, align the holes in the board with the pins and snap it in place.
Here’s a video.
How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB - YouTube
Electronic Contact Cleaner - WD-40 Specialist
Also make sure that the front panel is not pushing on the display components.