Greetings! New member here.

JoRo

0
May 9, 2016
2
Florence, AL
Hello,

My name is John, but my nickname is JoRo. You can call me either. I'm excited to be part of this community! Just wanted to say hello and introduce myself. I live in Florence, Alabama, which is in the northwest corner of the state. Most people know it generally as "the Shoals." My pool is an above ground 4,400 gallon Intex metal frame pool with 15'x48" dimensions and I love having the pool, but the trouble and costs have been a bit more than I foresaw when I bought it on clearance at the end of last summer.

I'm not really sure if I should go into the problem I have here in the introduction or maybe take it to the Getting Started section, but I don't guess it would hurt to bring it up here. I just bought the Intex 2100gph sand filter to replace my cartridge filter after seeing how much people love them and the good reviews it got and it's kind of been a headache. I followed all the instructions, put in the recommended amount of sand, checked for leaks, and everything, but it just doesn't seem to keep a strong water flow/pressure into the pool. I have to backwash almost every day, or even after a few hours of running it. It always starts strong and runs like it's supposed to, but a few hours later it comes to a halt almost with barely any pressure. If I recirculate, it flows fast, but I know it's not getting filtered, just shooting the water back into the pool. When I do backwash, there seems to be a bit of sand that comes out each time, so I don't know if maybe there's too much sand in the tank? Or is it supposed to be backwashed that often? Seems like an awful waste of water. The only other thing that is a bit different is (and I apologize for my terminology, I'm pretty new to all this) that my pool has 3 holes, 2 holes for the water to exit in 2 different pipes/tubes that join as 1 before entering the cartridge filter, and 1 hole for the filtered water to return (with 1 pipe/tube). Well, the sand filter is only set up to use 1 intake hose and 1 return hose, so I just plugged up one hole and used the one closest to the return spot. I don't know if this makes any sense, but I would appreciate any advice you might be able to provide.

Thanks!
 
Hi JoRo and welcome to TFP! :wave: I have to ask the all-important questions everyone is wondering .... "Do you have some test results you can provide?" ... preferably with your own TF-100 or Taylor K-2006? This is important to rule-out algae. It doesn't have to be green yet. It can actually be quite invisible to the eyes, built still clog-up the filter. So it would be nice to know that first. Besides that, we are very happy to have you with us.
 
Thank you for the welcome, Texas Splash! The only test kits I have right now are the strips that came with the startup kit from last year. Last time I tested, the chlorine was really high, but I have shocked it several times and used a gallon of chlorinating liquid to get the green out from the winter. It's actually looking really good, I can actually see the bottom of the pool, but it's still kind of cloudy/milky in appearance. Unfortunately, money is extremely tight right now, so I don't know if I can budget the money out to get one of those test kits right now. :( I feel that if the sand filter was working properly, I would be a lot closer to having it clear up. How would I be able to tell if it is invisible algae? I guess I'd have to use one of those test kits, but is that the only way?
 
The biggest problem is that without proper test results, we have no idea what to recommend. Since you have been using "shock product" and probably trichlor tablets, your CYA may be so high that your chlorine is ineffective.
 
Having a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C is certainly the ideal way, but I understand. There are test kits locally, but they don't have the important parts to test FC (free chlorine) at high levels which is important for conducting a "SLAM" (link below in my signature). Just remember that no filter can remove live algae from water, that's a chemistry issue. So now you have to kill the algae which it sounds like you are starting to do by adding liquid chlorine (bleach). Going from green to cloudy in a sign of transformation, but it's still in there I'm sure. But without knowing all the test numbers we're kind of going blindly. Free store testing is usually inaccurate and the test strips have a horrible reputation as well.

But I would recommend that you take a few minutes to at least review the links on the Pool School page and the SLAM procedures (links are below) so you have an understanding of what is required. Use only the products you see below on the link titled "Recommended Chemicals". From there you can make an informed decision based on your needs. I hope that sounds fair. If you have any more questions, we'll be here to help.
 
Welcome, JoRo :wave:

It sounds to me like maybe that filter is working the way it's supposed to. If the pool was a cloudy green mess, that's a lot of stuff to strain out. And if you haven't been killing it off consistently faster than it can grow back, you have a never-ending supply of algae to load the filter. That's a chemistry issue, not a filter issue.

The only other possibility is that you got some crummy sand. My findings on how not all sand is created equal

My money is on chemistry as the culprit. Sky-high CYA, most likely.