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Thread: New acid stennar

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    New acid stennar

    IMG_3304.jpgIMG_3298.jpg

    Based on some advice on this cite, I have given upon adding an electronic PH and acid injection system and decided to add instead a fixed rate acid stennar. But I have some questions.


    1. Where should it go on my pad and is there even room for it? See pictures showing back and front of my pad. And how should it be hooked up? Keep in mind I would like to connect it to my IAQUALINK, which is on one side of the pad, while the SWG cell is on the other.

    2. How much of a risk is there that it can malfunction and add a whole lot of acid into the pool. What is the best way to minimize that risk. For example, is there something extra I can get to give me added protection?

    3. What size gallons do the tanks come in and is it better to mix the acid with water and what are the benefits of that? If I need to mix the water with acid, I would want bigger than 4 gallons as I use a lot of acid in my pool.

    4. Can someone recommend a model and a pump?

    5. Is it possible to hookup to Iaqualink so that if I want to increase or decrease the amount of acid put in on a particular day, I could do that remotely?

    6. Is it better to have the tank on my pad or should it be buried (I think I saw someone do that on a thread here).

    7. How do I make sure it could never be on if my pump is not on (I assume I want that)?

    8. Anything else I should be thinking about?

    Thanks for your input.
    1200 Sq Ft 41,000 Gal. Gunite, JANDY SVRS VS pump, JANDY JXI 400,000 BTU, Polaris 280 w/ 3/4 BP, Rockwall and Grotto (w/6 jets and blower), 2 JANDY Lam Jets, 2 LED Bubblers, 5 Ledlights, AQUALINK P16 RS, 90% Quartz, SWF 185 GMP BP, SWF 125 BP, Levelor K1100 Autofill, AP Digital SWG, 2 skim and 5 returns, and mostly 3 inch piping

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: New acid stennar

    I can't answer the Jandy-specific questions and I don't have a Stenner so others can answer that but I do know this - you want to inject acid AFTER your heater but BEFORE your SWG (optimal). You might also consider adding a check valve between the heater and acid-injection point to avoid low pH water baking up into your heater. Optimally speaking (from what the major manufacturers do), you want 12-18" of straight PVC between the injection point and the SWG. You can inject acid AFTER the SWG too, but doing it before is a nice way to lower the pH (and CSI) of the water entering the cell.

    There's always the downside risk of "dumping the acid barrel" into the pool. Without some kind of continuos pH probe monitoring, it's hard to add something to limit that risk. You could try using a relatively low flow Stenner setup (which just means longer acid pump times) to hopefully limit the pH drop and whatever your normal water flow rates are.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Thanks Matt,

    IMG_3305.JPG

    It looks like my water goes from the Filter to the heater and then to the SWG. Is that correct? Would it be easy to install a stenner where the acid is injected before the SWG? I'm planning to have a PB do the installation, but am curious whether that would be practical given my setup.

    When you say adding the acid before the SWG lowers the CSI of the water entering the cell, would that be a bad thing if my CSI was say -.3 and the acid lowered it to a more negative number?

    Anyone else have any thoughts on my questions in the first post above?

    Thanks
    1200 Sq Ft 41,000 Gal. Gunite, JANDY SVRS VS pump, JANDY JXI 400,000 BTU, Polaris 280 w/ 3/4 BP, Rockwall and Grotto (w/6 jets and blower), 2 JANDY Lam Jets, 2 LED Bubblers, 5 Ledlights, AQUALINK P16 RS, 90% Quartz, SWF 185 GMP BP, SWF 125 BP, Levelor K1100 Autofill, AP Digital SWG, 2 skim and 5 returns, and mostly 3 inch piping

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    Re: New acid stennar

    You'll find answers to most of your questions by reading through these two threads:

    After Many Delays...The Stenner is up....


    Any experience with this Stenner setup?

    Pictures in these posts will give you an idea of the footprint of a tank/pump combo. One of my posts breaks down the cost of the components and one of many wiring scenarios that will ensure the acid pump can only run when the pool pump is running. Might be a good idea to share this info with the PB who will do the install, just for any additional info it may provide to him.
    Pool: 13k gal. in-ground; Stonescape Mini Pebble - Tropics Blue; Connected Spa - dual spill-over; Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG; AquaLogic PS-4 Automation; Sta-Rite DE Filter; Sta-Rite Max-e-Therm 400k BTU pool heater; Intellifo 2-VST Pump; Stenner 45mp2(25psi/10gpd) acid injection; Bulbwizard color LED pool lights; Poolvergnuegen 2 wheel side suction cleaner; FAFCO rooftop solar. TF-100 w/ speed stir.

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Thanks a lot. I'll study these.
    1200 Sq Ft 41,000 Gal. Gunite, JANDY SVRS VS pump, JANDY JXI 400,000 BTU, Polaris 280 w/ 3/4 BP, Rockwall and Grotto (w/6 jets and blower), 2 JANDY Lam Jets, 2 LED Bubblers, 5 Ledlights, AQUALINK P16 RS, 90% Quartz, SWF 185 GMP BP, SWF 125 BP, Levelor K1100 Autofill, AP Digital SWG, 2 skim and 5 returns, and mostly 3 inch piping

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    Re: New acid stennar

    So I met with my PB and it left me with a lot of questions. First he suggested I consider an automated PH system (that measures the actual PH), but I declined. I am guessing he suggested that because it would be easier for him to put together. Then he suggested I consider CO2 (because if the device fails, extra CO2 in the pool will not have an adverse effect like acid). I declined. But if anyone thinks Co2 makes sense let me know. Then he said he would have to reconfigure some of my plumbing to make it work. He didn't think he could inject the acid before my SWG cell because of how my plumbing was configurated (see pictures above), and did mention he thought I would need a check valve after the heater to make sure no acid got back into the heater. But then he said he was worried that if injected right after the cell, the acid would eventually backup and destroy the part of my cell I circled in red. See below picture. IMG_3313.jpg He then thought he might need to buy another part of my salt cell to reconfigure my plumbing.

    My question is based on my current set up, what would be the best place to inject the acid, and how much work and reconfiguration is really necessary.

    Thanks for your help.
    1200 Sq Ft 41,000 Gal. Gunite, JANDY SVRS VS pump, JANDY JXI 400,000 BTU, Polaris 280 w/ 3/4 BP, Rockwall and Grotto (w/6 jets and blower), 2 JANDY Lam Jets, 2 LED Bubblers, 5 Ledlights, AQUALINK P16 RS, 90% Quartz, SWF 185 GMP BP, SWF 125 BP, Levelor K1100 Autofill, AP Digital SWG, 2 skim and 5 returns, and mostly 3 inch piping

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Quote Originally Posted by grottoguy View Post
    So I met with my PB and it left me with a lot of questions. First he suggested I consider an automated PH system (that measures the actual PH), but I declined. I am guessing he suggested that because it would be easier for him to put together. Then he suggested I consider CO2 (because if the device fails, extra CO2 in the pool will not have an adverse effect like acid). I declined. But if anyone thinks Co2 makes sense let me know. Then he said he would have to reconfigure some of my plumbing to make it work. He didn't think he could inject the acid before my SWG cell because of how my plumbing was configurated (see pictures above), and did mention he thought I would need a check valve after the heater to make sure no acid got back into the heater. But then he said he was worried that if injected right after the cell, the acid would eventually backup and destroy the part of my cell I circled in red. .
    I can't answer your question, but I'm interested in hearing about using CO2 to regulate Ph. I had never heard of this. I guess if you get to much it would be like swimming in Club Soda
    2016 Build: 32x8 Gunite, 6,700 gallon IG pool including 6x8 spa and 6x8 tanning ledge w/ 2 bubblers. 32' raised wall with two sheer descent water features. Travertine Coping w/ split faced Travertine on raised wall face. 2HP VS Jandy pump, 400k heater, Rainbow Chlorinator, 4 Colored LED Lights. 459sqft spray deck plus. IAqualink remote, Polarus 9350 Robot Cleaner.

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: New acid stennar

    CO2 injection will lower the pH without significantly increasing TA. It's fairly common to use in large commercial pools where adding acid might be to dangerous or difficult. It is only very rarely used in residential pools as the cost of gas and the setup required would be a bit too much. There is a pool service company here in AZ that does weekly chlorine gas injection as their method of pool care and they use CO2 to lower pH as well.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: New acid stennar

    It might be a good idea to have another PB take a look at this project. It really is not complicated and some of his concerns seem to indicate some inexperience with installing the acid injection system.

    CO2 method is outdated for many reasons including having to locate a facility that will refill the tanks. Parenthetically speaking, it was wise of you to decline his suggestions.

    For simiplicity, I would recommend your PB buy the Stenner Pump/Tank combo unit. The Stenner Pump FIXED RATE model 45mphp10 100psi model is nice as it comes with the check valve and does not make a clicking sound when it is running (if you prefer not to hear that). The check valve is part of the insertion connection part that will be inserted into your PVC line via a 1/4 threaded tap

    A qualified PB should be able to figure out how best to insert the 1/4" line from the Stenner Pump and how to set up the timer for the Stenner Pump so it operates only when the pump is running - either using an existing relay on your automation panel; or easier still, buying a Woods Outdoor Time on Amazon, pluging that into a GFCI outlet in the pool area, and then pluging the Stenner Pump into that timer).

    - see how to install a stenner pump? for yet more info on hooking this up.

    Again, this is really not a complicated installtion. But again, I would hesitate to use the PB you have looking into this for the reasons cited at the beginning of this post.
    Pool: 13k gal. in-ground; Stonescape Mini Pebble - Tropics Blue; Connected Spa - dual spill-over; Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG; AquaLogic PS-4 Automation; Sta-Rite DE Filter; Sta-Rite Max-e-Therm 400k BTU pool heater; Intellifo 2-VST Pump; Stenner 45mp2(25psi/10gpd) acid injection; Bulbwizard color LED pool lights; Poolvergnuegen 2 wheel side suction cleaner; FAFCO rooftop solar. TF-100 w/ speed stir.

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Thanks for your advice. I spoke with someone else and they said they would get me a price without even seeing my system. I thought that was odd. I asked if he needed to see my system and he said no.

    As far as the Stennar pump you recommended that has a check valve, I think that is to prevent flow back into the acid tank? But if I inject before the salt cell I think I need a check valve to prevent acid flow back into my heater. That is why the first guy was concerned I think and said my plumbing didn't have enough room for that. See pictures above.

    Any thoughts on how complicated to get a check valve in my current system to prevent back flow to my heater? Or if my system makes more sense to inject after my salt cell?
    1200 Sq Ft 41,000 Gal. Gunite, JANDY SVRS VS pump, JANDY JXI 400,000 BTU, Polaris 280 w/ 3/4 BP, Rockwall and Grotto (w/6 jets and blower), 2 JANDY Lam Jets, 2 LED Bubblers, 5 Ledlights, AQUALINK P16 RS, 90% Quartz, SWF 185 GMP BP, SWF 125 BP, Levelor K1100 Autofill, AP Digital SWG, 2 skim and 5 returns, and mostly 3 inch piping

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    Re: New acid stennar

    If the Stenner Pump is wired such that it will only run when the pool pump is running (or if timer is set so Stenner Pump is set to run only when pool pump runs) your heater will not be exposed to any damage from the acid that gets injected. The injected acid is introduced in small quantities and is diluted enough to not be anywhere near full strength.

    FYI, the check valve is part and parcel of the part that gets screwed into the pvc pipe at the insertion point to, as you said, keep the high pressure water traversing through your pipe from pushing its way back through the 1/4" tube and really making a mess if things. That will be the only check valve you will need.
    Pool: 13k gal. in-ground; Stonescape Mini Pebble - Tropics Blue; Connected Spa - dual spill-over; Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG; AquaLogic PS-4 Automation; Sta-Rite DE Filter; Sta-Rite Max-e-Therm 400k BTU pool heater; Intellifo 2-VST Pump; Stenner 45mp2(25psi/10gpd) acid injection; Bulbwizard color LED pool lights; Poolvergnuegen 2 wheel side suction cleaner; FAFCO rooftop solar. TF-100 w/ speed stir.

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    Re: New acid stennar

    I agree with Jaimslaw if you setup in such a way that the Stenner will not run unless the pump is on you will have no problem and do not need a check valve on the heater. The easiest way to do that is if your AquaLink panel has an open relay you can run the power supply line to the Stenner through that relay, that will allow you to schedule when the Stenner runs and in programming tie the operation of the relay to the pump so that you never have one without the other. Even at low speed your are probably pushing around 630 ml of water per second compared to 0.43 ml of acid injected per second for a 10GPD Stenner. If the Stenner and pump shut off at the same time, the time it takes the impeller to stop will have the acid well downstream and diluted to a level I would not be concerned about.

    If you don't have an open/unused relay in the panel many of the VS pumps have an aux relay in the pump where the power connects to the pump. The relay is intended to be used to control a booster pump like would be used by a Polaris and will only activate when the pump is on and at or above a certain RPM (2000RPM I think but you would have to look in the manual or call Jandy to confirm). I would connect a timer such as a Woods to an electrical outlet, out of the woods through the pump relay to the Stenner. That way the timer always has power and keeps it's programming but if you ever get clock drift or accidentally program the wrong start time if the pump is not on nothing happens.
    12,300 Gallon, IG PebbleFina, 3 ft sheer, 2 Jandy nicheless LED lights, Jandy Pro 1.5HP VS pump (A.O. Smith Motor), PB4-60 Booster pump, Polaris 280, Jandy cv340 cartridge filter, Zodiac Z4 control panel W/iAquaLink, Stenner pumps for chlorine & MA connected to WiOn WiFi switches, TF-100. You can support TFP with AmazonSmile just click the link!

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Quote Originally Posted by JoyfulNoise View Post
    CO2 injection will lower the pH without significantly increasing TA. It's fairly common to use in large commercial pools where adding acid might be to dangerous or difficult. It is only very rarely used in residential pools as the cost of gas and the setup required would be a bit too much. There is a pool service company here in AZ that does weekly chlorine gas injection as their method of pool care and they use CO2 to lower pH as well.
    I've bought a Stenner pump and tank but haven't hooked it up yet. Mainly derailed by the fact my Pentair Inetlliflow sometimes stops after momentary power interruptions even though it still has power applied to it so I can't depend on powering both from the same switch. I now have a relay switched by a CT so I can run the Intelluiflow power cord through the CT (current transformer) so when the Intelliflow stops drawing power it will cut power to the Stenner pump but I haven't gotten back on this project and was reading about CO2 injection. I see the opinions that it is too expensive for home use but can someone help me understand that?

    Maybe some data I'm looking at is wrong: I've read a pound of CO2 (about 8.75 SCF) will lower PH about the same as 1/4 gallon of Muriatic Acid. Is that true?

    My pool normally demands about 30 ounces of Muriatic Acid when PH rises to 7.8 which is very often - almost daily - when hot and I'm adding a lot of calhypo (avoiding excess cyanuric acid buildup) so that would seem to be equivalent to about a pound of CO2. The cheapest I can find Muriatic Acid is about $5.50 so the costs seem similar. CO2 might even be a little less in larger cylinders.

    Now for my more detailed questions: 1 pound in 24 hours is only .36 SCFH. 1/3 a cubic foot per hour is a "very slow flow rate" and probably not feasible anyway but is there some trick to CO2 injection that requires perhaps a higher flow? Obviously the pressure must be higher than the pressure in the pipe it's injected into but would a tiny dribble of bubbles of CO2 be dissolved into the water if injected at a pressure barely above the water pressure? From my injection point to pool inlets is about 25 feet in one direction and maybe 60 feet in the other so plenty of time to be absorbed I'd think but maybe not? I see the Hayward units offering flow rates of 30 and 100 SCFH and wonder if my calculations are totally off?

    Those controllers - even the smaller 30 SCFH one - (which are for residential pools) could inject more CO2 in an hour than my calculations indicate I'd need in almost 4 days so this makes me think I might be way off or perhaps the nature of CO2 injection "requires" a higher pressure higher flow rate injection through perhaps a venturri creating shearing forces or turbulence in the mixing operation?

    If it must be injected fast then how fast? How many cubic feet per minute (or hour) is required? Those ontrollers have solenoids to turn the higher flow on and off to modulate injcetion so they could stay off most of the time and deliver the 8.75 CF per day I think I need.

    My current problem manually adding acid is that even when I divide 30 ounces into 3 or 4 pours diluted in a 5 gallon pail around the pool edges it still lowers TA back down to aboyt 60 (from 90 -100) in about a week so my attraction to CO2 is mainly to avoid lowering TA and this constant battle adding baking soda to raise TA followed by acid to lower PH (not same day of coures).

    I am used to refilling Co2 cylinders since I keep beer on tap at home but if I go this route I'd probably get a little larger cylinder than the 20 pounders since they might not last a month. Then again a 20 pounder might very well last a month since I'd probably not need as much acid if I weren't adding all the baking soda to control TA.

    I would appreciate advice since all my Stenner stuff (pump tank, etc is new) and I could sell it and switch to CO2 if feasible but if it definitely isn't I need to install it since I "hope" slower injection of acid ( say 30 ounces dribbled in over 24 hours) will stop dropping my TA as much.

    Thanks,

    Nick
    20 X 40 Gunite probably 50 years old but last re-plastered with Beadcrete in 2009
    About 28,000 gallon "hopper style" deep end with Pentair Intelliflow set for 1 change/day
    Sand filter and Hayward Gas Heater (pool is seldom used so heater is rarely on)
    Trees all around so HIGH maintenance - Dolphin Dynamic cleaner runs almost daily

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    New acid stennar

    You can completely avoid the complexity of a gas injection system by changing your chemistry approach. I see two fundamental problems with how you are managing your pool -

    You are using cal-hypo to chlorinate which is driving up your pH and then your desire is to maintain too high a TA which leading to your acid/alkalinity cycling.

    You should use liquid chlorine for daily chlorination which is mostly pH neutral and a lot more so when compared to cal-hypo. You should also let your TA fall to a lower level (perhaps as low as 50ppm) and then target a pH of no lower than 7.6 with acid additions only occurring after your pH rises above 7.8.

    Those two changes alone will likely solve your pH problems and entirely negate the need for any kind of automated acid injection system.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Quote Originally Posted by JoyfulNoise View Post
    You can completely avoid the complexity of a gas injection system by changing your chemistry approach. I see two fundamental problems with how you are managing your pool -

    You are using cal-hypo to chlorinate which is driving up your pH and then your desire is to maintain too high a TA which leading to your acid/alkalinity cycling.

    You should use liquid chlorine for daily chlorination which is mostly pH neutral and a lot more so when compared to cal-hypo. You should also let your TA fall to a lower level (perhaps as low as 50ppm) and then target a pH of no lower than 7.6 with acid additions only occurring after your pH rises above 7.8.

    Those two changes alone will likely solve your pH problems and entirely negate the need for any kind of automated acid injection system.
    Thank you. I appreciate your suggestion and had decided to do exactly that (switching to liquid chlorine) about a year or so ago but I diiscovered there is no local availability here in Columbia, SC. Occassionally Ollie's (a liquidator) gets a shipment but its date is usually so old the chlorine content is not much above Chlorox and the price is extremely high for the chlorine content left. I even investigated buying full pallets and rounding up eneough other pool owners to use it fast enough but the shipping on dangerous acid was ridiculous (more than the acid as I recall). My problem is exacerbated by the fact the pool has no splash out and backwashing is reduced by my Dolphin Dynamic vacuum so trichlor tabs can't be used very often due to the cyanuric acid accumulation.
    20 X 40 Gunite probably 50 years old but last re-plastered with Beadcrete in 2009
    About 28,000 gallon "hopper style" deep end with Pentair Intelliflow set for 1 change/day
    Sand filter and Hayward Gas Heater (pool is seldom used so heater is rarely on)
    Trees all around so HIGH maintenance - Dolphin Dynamic cleaner runs almost daily

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Quote Originally Posted by NickJ View Post
    Thank you. I appreciate your suggestion and had decided to do exactly that (switching to liquid chlorine) about a year or so ago but I diiscovered there is no local availability here in Columbia, SC. Occassionally Ollie's (a liquidator) gets a shipment but its date is usually so old the chlorine content is not much above Chlorox and the price is extremely high for the chlorine content left. I even investigated buying full pallets and rounding up eneough other pool owners to use it fast enough but the shipping on dangerous acid was ridiculous (more than the acid as I recall). My problem is exacerbated by the fact the pool has no splash out and backwashing is reduced by my Dolphin Dynamic vacuum so trichlor tabs can't be used very often due to the cyanuric acid accumulation.
    I can agre, I tried Ollies chlorine last season but even when they had good dates it did not perform as expected.

    Now, you can get liquid chlorine in the Columbia area, it's bleach. I chlorinate almost exclusively with bleach. I have a 15 gallon tank and a Stenner pump so it's easy for me. I do have pH rise in my pool due to a sheer decent waterfall, but with my TA at 50 I generally only adjust twice a week.

    You can get 10% by the gallon at the pool store on Forest Drive, but they are high in their prices. Talking to Stepehn there he would like to put in a tank and sell 12.5% but he is unsure of what the market would be.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Quote Originally Posted by tim5055 View Post
    I can agre, I tried Ollies chlorine last season but even when they had good dates it did not perform as expected.

    Now, you can get liquid chlorine in the Columbia area, it's bleach. I chlorinate almost exclusively with bleach. I have a 15 gallon tank and a Stenner pump so it's easy for me. I do have pH rise in my pool due to a sheer decent waterfall, but with my TA at 50 I generally only adjust twice a week.

    You can get 10% by the gallon at the pool store on Forest Drive, but they are high in their prices. Talking to Stepehn there he would like to put in a tank and sell 12.5% but he is unsure of what the market would be.
    Thank you! I didn't even know there was a pool supply store on Forest Drive much less that they stock 10% bleach. I will definitely check it out.
    20 X 40 Gunite probably 50 years old but last re-plastered with Beadcrete in 2009
    About 28,000 gallon "hopper style" deep end with Pentair Intelliflow set for 1 change/day
    Sand filter and Hayward Gas Heater (pool is seldom used so heater is rarely on)
    Trees all around so HIGH maintenance - Dolphin Dynamic cleaner runs almost daily

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Quote Originally Posted by JoyfulNoise View Post
    you want to inject acid AFTER your heater but BEFORE your SWG (optimal).
    AFAIK acid injection should come after the SWG and after the flow switch, or you will lose the warranty of your SWG and flow cell.
    Basically the acid should be the last thing in the chain.
    Our Build 2016 14.5' x 26' IG Pebble, 14.5K Gal. 3.5' - 6.5' deep, 5 returns, 2 Skimmers, Hayward VS pump, Hayward 525 Cartridge Filter, Hayward E-Command 4, Heliocol Solar, Hayward LED Light, Paramount Ultraviolet, Polaris 280, AquaRite Pro, T-CELL-15, Sense and Dispense (HL-CHEM), Ph Dispense System (AQL-CHEM3) , Taylor K-2006 with SpeedStir

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    Re: New acid stennar

    Quote Originally Posted by Yaniv View Post
    AFAIK acid injection should come after the SWG and after the flow switch, or you will lose the warranty of your SWG and flow cell.
    Basically the acid should be the last thing in the chain.
    It depends on the manufacturer but Pentair recommends putting the acid injection fitting 12"-18" BEFORE the SWG. The Pentair IC uses a magnetic reed switch to detect flow which is mostly immune to acid attack. Page 9 of the Pentair IntelliPH dispenser shows the proper setup -

    http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/intellipHOM.pdf

    This has the added benefit of injecting low CSI water into the cell which inhibits the formation of calcium scale.

    The Hayward Chem-3 acid dispenser (and Chem-2 CO2 injector) shows the setup after the flow switch because the Aquarite uses a thermal flow detection sensor that is probably susceptible to acid degradation and failure. As long as the flow switch is before the acid injection point, then it should not matter if the cell is after the injection point.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

  20. Back To Top    #20

    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    426

    Re: New acid stennar

    UPDATE:

    I have called so many pool companies and no one was willing to install an acid stennar (one or two companies gave me false hope before saying they weren't interested). But finally today I got a quote from a Company. The quote said "1 Stennar fixed pump $362.11 installation $150; one C1000 PH Controller $1009.50, installation $350. Any electrical work is not included and there needs to be a place to mount these components in the area of the filter equipment."

    I had asked for two quotes, one for a stennar system and one for an electronic PH System (since he was suggesting that). I am not sure if this quote is for two alternative proposals or just one proposal. I suspect just one with a PH Controller.

    Obviously I will need to flush out this proposal since the quote lacks any specifics. But my question is this. Can the Hayward C1000 be hooked up to my Aqualink? If not should I even consider it? I would only get the Stennar if that could be hooked up to my Aqualink such that I could adjust its run time to either add or lower the amount of acid I needed. If I decide I am not overly confident in their ability to install the Stennar the way I want, is the C1000 easier for them to install? I googled the C1000 Controller package with Combo pump and it seems to all come assembled and I wonder if that makes it easier for them to install?

    I had hoped to get this done almost four months ago, but now wonder if I ever will find someone to do it.

    Thanks
    1200 Sq Ft 41,000 Gal. Gunite, JANDY SVRS VS pump, JANDY JXI 400,000 BTU, Polaris 280 w/ 3/4 BP, Rockwall and Grotto (w/6 jets and blower), 2 JANDY Lam Jets, 2 LED Bubblers, 5 Ledlights, AQUALINK P16 RS, 90% Quartz, SWF 185 GMP BP, SWF 125 BP, Levelor K1100 Autofill, AP Digital SWG, 2 skim and 5 returns, and mostly 3 inch piping

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