Newbie help please!

[momma2girls]

Hello Everyone! New here so please forgive me for the dumb questions

Our pool was green we attempted the pool store chemical and it only got cloudy and teal green. I got on here and read a little and ordered the Taylors test kit. Prior to our kit getting her we were adding bleach to kill of algae.It appeared like it was getting bluer. I have tested twice, hopefully I did this correctly. Our pool was low due to all the backwashing and here were my numbers

FC .8
CC 2.0
ph 7.6
TA 160
CYA 110 ? assuming because it never reached the 100 line on the Taylor kit
CH 1000

So we filled up the pool its now cloudy looking again but still blue.

barely a color change this time with adding the powder to get a color change
FC .5
CC .5 dramatic change
ph 8.0
TA 110
CYA 120 ? assuming because it never reached the 100 line on the Taylor kit
CH 750

I put the number on the pool calculator and it tells me to replace 50% of the water but tells me to add chlorine? I see where I input the FC calculation but where do enter the CC figure?? Is that something that is not needed in the calculation? Can we do anything to avoid draining the pool? We have always drained and started fresh every year and I wanted to see if we could get back to clear without doing that this yr.

 

[BattleOfYakima]

Welcome! Many experts will undoubtedly flood you with awesomness very soon, but until then, make sure you browse the pool school and I'd just suggest you read every single word of this page especially, maybe even first: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool

If you are going to take control of your pool and reject the pool store or conventional pool practices that got you into your high CYA mess (which it sounds like has happened to you other years?) then that is the page that will open your eyes. As I learned when my CYA went over 100, high CYA is 100% avoidable forever. However, pool store advice nearly guarantees recurring high cya problems. So yeah, make sure you grasp the basics of pool school and how to chlorinate so you see how that cya goes above desirable levels and so you can avoid it forever!!!

They'll be along shortly to get you going, but your time spent above will not be wasted I promise. I was you Many of us were. We've had no trouble since learning how to do it the TFP way. Just remember, the pool store, your neighbors, and other websites will suggest different courses of action than this site and these amazing people. You have to pick only one source for your decision making information. If that is here, great! Worked for me! This site has 100,000 members now. I suggest here Just don't mix here advise with pool store or anyone else. You have come to the right place.

It sounds like you're worried about doing the tests right. That's okay! I'm guessing you ordered the Taylor 2006 or 2006C (put it in the signature please.) They made great stuff to get your confidence way up! First there are the way more detailed write ups about the tests, including clarifications for those moments where you think the test could go one of two ways. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/213-extended-test-kit-directions Then there is the video: http://How to Use a Taylor Complete FAS-DPD Pool Water Test Kit K-2006 - YouTube

I'm guessing that based on the http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels they will have you do a partial drain/refill to lower the CYA level to 80 before you start the http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shocking

 

[cowboycasey]

Welcome to TFP

Let us start with 1 test, CYA

Did the black dot disappear below the 100 mark? or did it not disappear at all?

If below the 100 mark, Can you take 1 quart pool water, 1 quart tap water and mix them together... Then use that water to do the CYA test, the number you get IE: 70 multiply that number by 2

Post up this number and we will see what you have

You have one of the best kits so your doing great so far

 

[momma2girls]

Thanks for your help! I just did ur method and I get to 40 CYA so x by 2 = 80

 

[BattleOfYakima]

Very interesting! CYA test is certainly a unique beast. I just want to make sure you happened to catch one thing about the CYA test, "Stand outdoors with your back to the sun and hold the view tube at about waist level. If sunlight is not available, find the brightest artificial light you can." From here about halfway down the page and it has a very detailed description of cya test and all others too.

 

[docxo]

Milky water, slamming

We opened the pool 4 days ago to a green swamp. I balanced the water and have been slamming, following instructions to a T. Within 24 hours the water was blue, but cloudy, so I have continued slamming. I was so proud with the way things were clearing up, but now seem to be at a standstill. This morning is day 2-3 of no progress in water clarity. No green whatsoever, blue water, with a milky tinge, same cloudiness as 3 days ago. This morning I am dipping just below my slam level for the first time, and I'm wondering if I should continue because I feel like it is no longer doing anything and the problem could be something else.

Using TF-100 test kit

FC 16
CC 0.5 (for 3 days)
pH 7.5 (initially was high at 8, I was hoping cloudiness would resolve as I improved the pH but it hasn't)
TA 60
CYA 50 and more dissolving in socks
CH 150
Salt 3000

Sand filter, SWG, using 10% sodium hypochlorite to slam. Concrete pool with stainless steel sides. The only thing out of balance is my CH, so I'm off to get more of that. I've been low on that in the past and never experienced cloudiness. Could it be as simple as that? Do I forage on with slamming? My pump seems to be working with good flow through all return lines. Could my filter just be doing a bad job of getting out the fine particles?

 

[Richard320]

Re: Milky water, slamming

We opened the pool 4 days ago to a green swamp. I balanced the water and have been slamming, following instructions to a T. Within 24 hours the water was blue, but cloudy, so I have continued slamming. I was so proud with the way things were clearing up, but now seem to be at a standstill. This morning is day 2-3 of no progress in water clarity. No green whatsoever, blue water, with a milky tinge, same cloudiness as 3 days ago. This morning I am dipping just below my slam level for the first time, and I'm wondering if I should continue because I feel like it is no longer doing anything and the problem could be something else.

Using TF-100 test kit

FC 16
CC 0.5 (for 3 days)
pH 7.5 (initially was high at 8, I was hoping cloudiness would resolve as I improved the pH but it hasn't)
TA 60
CYA 50 and more dissolving in socks
CH 150
Salt 3000

Sand filter, SWG, using 10% sodium hypochlorite to slam. Concrete pool with stainless steel sides. The only thing out of balance is my CH, so I'm off to get more of that. I've been low on that in the past and never experienced cloudiness. Could it be as simple as that? Do I forage on with slamming? My pump seems to be working with good flow through all return lines. Could my filter just be doing a bad job of getting out the fine particles?

I think you've solved the mystery.

Sand filters are the slowest about cleaning out the cloudiness. Don't get impatient and start dumping clarifiers and flocculents in just yet! A couple ideas to try first.
1) Deep clean the filter. Sand can clump up and form clods. Homemade sandstone. When you backwash, they get shifted and you end up with channels right through the chunks.
2) After the sand is all clean and broken up, Add some DE or cellulose. It's like setting a layer of window screen on top of chicken wire, but on a microscopic level. Only do this if you'll be around to watch the filter pressure, because it can load up in a big hurry. Then you just backwash and add another little bit. See if you've got a neighbor that has a DE filter that you can beg a coffee-can's worth from.
3) Do what you can to improve circulation down low. Open the main drain if you have one. Point the returns down. Maybe hook up the vacuum and set it in the pool sideways or upside down to act as a main drain. Anything to get those particles circulating so the filter can grab 'em.

 

[momma2girls]

I retested with just pool water to 7ml and CYA reagent to 14 ml, no tap water and the outdoor method and I got 70 CYA. We did this twice me once and hubby the second time and we got the same anwers lol
What are you suggestions? Should I now retest everything? The pool still is still blue & cloudy

 

[Richard320]

I retested with just pool water to 7ml and CYA reagent to 14 ml, no tap water and the outdoor method and I got 70 CYA. We did this twice me once and hubby the second time and we got the same anwers lol
What are you suggestions? Should I now retest everything? The pool still is still blue & cloudy

70 CYA is do-able. Not great, but since the water's already blue not green, I'd stop messing around and

Doublecheck pH and if it's still at 7.6, go. Otherwise, measure TA, plug pH and TA into poolmath, and adjust to 7.2. Then it's jugs away!

You might also check my reply in Milky water, slamming

 

[cowboycasey]

70 CYA is perfect for a salt water pool but that CYA will require a higher amount of FC for your SLAM

Now you will need to SLAM for that CYA, keep you pump running 24/7 until you're done with the SLAM

Make sure your PH is at 7.2

during the SLAM you will only test free chlorine and combined chlorine

using http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html put your numbers from your test in the now column and your target number for FC is 28

Test every 2 hours to start out, as you go along you can test every 6 hours or so, the more testing and adding chlorine the faster the SLAM will go

You are done when all three tests from the OCLT below is reached.

I hope this helps

 

[docxo]

Re: Milky water, slamming

Thank you. I did do that with the vacuum a few minutes ago. In the mean time, do I continue slamming or just maintain normal levels?

Last year we borrowed a portable DE filter from someone but have since broken ties with him as he damaged so much of our pool stuff during construction. The water cleared up so quickly with it. In previous years the water was never green on opening, so this patience gam me is new to me.

 

[Richard320]

Re: Milky water, slamming

Thank you. I did do that with the vacuum a few minutes ago. In the mean time, do I continue slamming or just maintain normal levels?

Last year we borrowed a portable DE filter from someone but have since broken ties with him as he damaged so much of our pool stuff during construction. The water cleared up so quickly with it. In previous years the water was never green on opening, so this patience gam me is new to me.

Stay at shock level until the water is clear and the CC is .5 or less and you lose less than 1 FC overnight. All three simultaneously.

If the algae is dead, you won't really lose all that much extra FC by keeping it up so high. It's very cheap insurance.

 

[docxo]

Re: Milky water, slamming

I'm going to give it another day or two before deep cleaning the sand filter. I'm 5 months pregnant and I'm not sure I have it in me to do that today.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for all your help. Will do.

 

[momma2girls]

Just tested again

FC .5
CC .5
ph 8.0

So I need to get Ph lower before slamming?

 

[Richard320]

Just tested again

FC .5
CC .5
ph 8.0

So I need to get Ph lower before slamming?

Yes, because once you start slamming you won't be able to get an accurate pH reading at high FC levels. It's actually one of the prerequisites listed in Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

 

[BattleOfYakima]

Unless you NEED the pool ready faster, I throw my vote on PH 7.2 and slam at new FC until the water gets clear or one week without drastic improvements, then take more drastic measures. If you have the time to give it more time it is a good way to gauge the health of your sand filter too! If it clears, cool! If not, deep clean.

 

[momma2girls]

Thank for being patient with me! We got ph down to 7.2. We have added our bleach in its up to FC 24 & CC 1. I'll test in morning and see where we r

 

[BattleOfYakima]

Exciting! It might take a few days, or longer, but I bet you'll SLAM that CC and cloudiness out of existence! Does the PSI gauge on the sand filter work? What are typical pressures for your system?

 

[momma2girls]

This am its 24 FC and 1.5 CC ....CC is supposed to go lower so wonder why is it going up. I guess I need to add more bleach to get it to 28.

 

[Richard320]

This am its 24 FC and 1.5 CC ....CC is supposed to go lower so wonder why is it going up. I guess I need to add more bleach to get it to 28.

That's normal. The FC is reacting with organic stuff and creating CC. Chlorine oxidizes stuff; it's flameless burning. The CC is the equivalent of smoke or soot. Sunlight will finish it off, but there wasn't any sunlight overnight. It's working. Don't panic.