After 1 Week - New Pool

[mgmoore7]

I have been taking reading everyday to ensure that the Chlorine and PH are correct. A few days ago I started working on bringing the CYA up using granuals. I noticed the TA was lower than before probably due to the Muratic Acid pulling it down. I was using some pucks to maintain things for a bit but pulled those out as I decided I was better to control the chlorine and CYA myself.

PT = PebbleTec

FC: 2 - Just added 14oz to bring this up to 3. 1.5 to 3 recommending by PT
PH: 7.5 - Just added 14oz to bring this down to 7.2 as recommended by PT for the 1st 30 days. Been adding just about every day.
TA: 70 - Just added Baking Soda yesterday to bring this up from 40. Thinking to add a little more. 80 - 100 is recommended by PT
CYA: 30 - Still have the sock in the skimmer. May take it out and see what it reads after 24 hours from now. 30-50 is recommended by PT
CH: 400 -

After 30 days, will work toward turning on the Salt System.

I know that some the PT recommendations may not be quite the same as here but for right now, I want to follow their guidelines for warranty purposes.

I think all is well but figured I would post and get your feedback.

Thanks, I have learned so much and am continuing to do so.

 

[jblizzle]

You are going to have to maintain a higher FC level than PT recommends if you want to avoid algae. The pool industry for some reason will not acknowledge the relationship between the required FC level and the CYA level that has been known since the 70s. See the FC/CYA Chart

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Sounds like you have a plan and you've been doing some reading. Are you remembering to brush every day? Keep in mind that with a new surface like that you will see your PH, ALk and CH numbers adjusting on their own (for up to a year....) so keep that in mind.

- - - Updated - - -

You are going to have to maintain a higher FC level than PT recommends if you want to avoid algae. The pool industry for some reason will not acknowledge the relationship between the required FC level and the CYA level that has been known since the 70s. See the FC/CYA Chart

Not disagreeing at all, but the poster did say this was just for the first 30 days. As long as they don't adjust the CYA higher than 30 and stays above a FC of 2, they'll be ok for a month IMHO

 

[mgmoore7]

Jason, I added a little more chlorine

FrustratedPoolMom, Yes, I am brushing twice per day. Yes, been reading alot, watching videos, etc.

The PT recommendation is that the CH needs to be bround down to 200ppm. I am at 400 according to the TF Kit as well as some all in one strips I got just to help confirm my testing as I learn.

Thanks.

 

[jblizzle]

Well how did the CH get so high? What is the CH of the fill water? The only way for it to go up is from pulling calcium out of the new surface or if is was added.

The advice you are getting is a little bizarre, keeping the CH and pH that low is pretty aggressive against your new pool.

The only way to lower the CH (not that I would) is to replace water, assuming your fill water has less calcium in it.

 

[mgmoore7]

I am not sure the on CH. This is the one test that I don't feel quite as confident with. I was going to go the pool store tomorrow and have them test everything as a 2nd set of eyes as well and to get the print out to show it has been maintained. I just checked the pool store readings from last weekend and they had it at 250 so it seems like my testing might be off.

The PT company said to keep the PH 7.2 to 7.5 and to keep it toward the lower side. I have been maintaining it in that range but everyday it climbs and need to add acid. I think this is normal with a new finish?

 

[pooldv]

Yes, PH rising in a newly plastered pool is normal.

Maybe watching a video of the test will help.
https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

 

[mgmoore7]

Yes, PH rising in a newly plastered pool is normal.

Maybe watching a video of the test will help.
https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

The instructions I received with the TF-100 test kit say:
10 drops of R-0010
3 drops of R-0011L
R-0012 until blue and multiply * 25

The video says (bolded differences)
20 drops of R-0010
5 drops of R-0011L
R-0012 until blue and multiply * 10

Maybe the differences equalize themselves out? The video is also from 2012.

Extended Instructions say:
Add 10 drops of R-0010 and swirl to mix.
Add 3 drops of R-0011L and swirl to mix. The solution should turn red, pink, or blue. If the sample turns blue, you are done and your CH level is zero.
Counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0012 one drop at a time, swirling to mix after each drop.
Continue adding drops until the color changes to something more or less blue. If the sample turns purple see the note on "fading endpoint" below.
Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.
If the sample starts to turn blue and then goes back to red/pink and stays there from several more drops this is also a "fading endpoint", see the note below.
Multiply the number of drops by 25 to get your CH level. Remember that the final drop, which didn't cause any further color change, doesn't count.

 

[pooldv]

The difference is probably in the sample size.

 

[jblizzle]

The difference is the size of the water sample. The tf100 recommends using 10 milliliters of water so that you x 25 where as the video uses 25 milliliters of water so that you x 10.