Tried Everything Pool Won't Clear

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joe690

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May 6, 2016
21
Middletown RI
Hi everyone,

I have had this pool for over 7 years with no problems. It is a 24 foot above ground pool. Every year I never have any problems, the pool is usually brownish when I first take the cover off. Then I always put algaecide 60 in it, and use powder shock to raise the free chlorine level to around 7.5PPM. Then I run the filter filter pretty much 24/7 for about 4 days, backwashing every 12 hours. When I backwash the water coming out of the backwash is always very green, and then after about 4 days my pool will be clear. This year is a different story. So here are my stats for water just so you know.

pH 7.1
Free Chlorine 6.5
Total Alkalinity 70 PPm
No stabilizer
I had the water tested for phosphate and hardness at the pool store and they said it was fine.

I have a 1HP pump with a 19 inch sand filter that holds 175 pounds of sand, it is a proline, which is pretty much a hayward setup.
All lines are clear, skimmer basket is clear, pump basket and impeller are clear.

So as I said I put in my algaecide 60 and chlorine in, and the water turned from brownish to an aqua blue green and is cloudy. I have had the filter running for about 14 days on and off. Also there are no leaves or anything in the pool. The water never got clear and never had to be backwashed, and when I did backwash the water came out of the backwash clear.

So I figured I needed new sand cause the sand in the filter was about 7 years old. I changed the sand by using a shop vac, and the laterals in the tank looked fine, I put 175 pounds of new filter sand in the tank. I also put in a bottle of clarifier. The pressure in the tank is around 7-8 PSI and it seems as though the water is just not being filtered. It has run for at least 72 hours with the new sand and there has been no change at all. Water is still cloudy greenish blue. The water never needs to be backwashed, the pressure in the tank never rises, and when I do backwash, the water coming out is clear, not green as it should be.

Could it be my selector valve has gone bad? It is not leaking or anything, but I am running out of ideas here. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be? Please help.

Thanks
 
Thanks for the reply, but I have used this method for 7 years and it has always worked fine. Nothing with the water is different this year, but it is not working. Actually the water was more clear when I first opened this year than last year. I have always used algeacide 60 and it has always worked fine.

Also I wanted to add that my CYA level is at around 30PPM, I previously said there was no stabilizer in it, I meant to say, I never added any yet.
 
Also I forgot to add that I have brushed the pool every day with the filter running. Why wont my filter catch the cloudiness in the water? That is the problem I am sure. As I said, every year previously, the filter would catch the debris and it would be backwashed out. This year, nothing has been backwashed out, so I know that the filter is not working properly. Do I need a new filter?
 
Your title is misleading. You've tried one thing that worked for you in the past, but does not work for everyone. You've simply gotten lucky in the last years of maintenance. Using the SLAM procedure and TFP methods for maintenance will get you a clear pool EVERY TIME if you have the proper test kit and stick with the procedure. You'll also be surprised by the results as your water will be clearer than you thought possible and perhaps your water really never has been clear.

Algaecide is not good at eliminating bacteria, it can be an additional safeguard against algae getting started but the only proven, reliable method for eliminating algae is chlorine in the proper dosage over a continued process to completion. Rarely is a cloudy pool exclusively a filter problem. More often it is a sanitation problem. Improper chlorination.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I am pretty sure I already slammed my pool. For 14 days the free chlorine level was at about 10-12 and my cya is at about 25-30.

From what I read on this site that is what is required. I used liquid sodium hypochlorite 12.5% to achieve the shock level. It took about 20 gallons total over the course of maybe 10 days, as I said that usually works, but not this year.
 
Hello Joe690,

As woodyp stated reading the Pool School section is highly recommended since the things taught here are entirely different from what is pass along through the pool store. For example, the Algaecide 60 is to prevent new algae from forming, it does nothing to remove existing algae.

To clear a pool it takes time, frequent and accurat testing and frequent addition of CL. To do this you add the correct amount of chlorine to reach shock level for your pool. The correct amount is determined by accurately testing your CYA or stabilizer level. However the cl is consumed by the organic material in the pool and soon after your cl is no longer at shock level, also cl is consumed by the sun as well so a CYA or stabilizer level of approximately 30 is suggested. This is why you must be able to test frequently and accurately. Once you test and see that you cl is approaching or is below shock level you add more cl. As you can see this is not a one time addition of cl, or just periodically add it. You must raise the cl in your pool to Shock Level And Maintain it at that level, or as it is called here SLAM.

This is a high level summary and maybe not worded the best which is why it is recommended that you read the pool school so that you understand it. Once you understand it and it clicks soon you will find yourself here offering advice to others.

I do not know how you got the numbers you provided in your post but for the purpose of moving forward we can assume they are correct. However if they were given to you by the pool store I would not trust them.

With a CYA/stabilizer of 0 you will need to add some to the pool to bring your level up to about 30. What you will find out by reading pool school is that there is a section of this site called Pool Math that helps you determine how much of a chemical you should add and the impact it will have your water balance.

You may also want to raise your PH a bit to bring but it is not necessary at this point, however note that while your CL is over 10 PH cannot be measured accurately.

In pool school you will come across a Chlorine/CYA chart. This chart shows you the recommended CL levels for your CYA level. Since we just raised yours to 30 your target shock level will be a CL of 12. This means that until your pool passes the SLAM criteria your CL should always be above 12. This is why you should obtain one of the test kits recommended here. Most kits are unable to measure CL above 10, however the kits recommended here come with a drop based test that can measure above 10.

To raise your CL level it is recommended to use standard bleach that can be purchased from many places. You do not want scented or splashless bleach, just standard bleach. Most stores sell 8.25% bleach. Once again you can use Pool Math to determine how much bleach you need to add to raise your CL to 12.

Once again this is all under the assumption that your earlier numbers were correct. This should be enough to give you an idea of what is taught here and the process to be used to clear your pool.
 
There are three criteria to pass a SLAM:

OCLT loss of less than 1 ppm FC
OCLT loss of less than .5 CC
Crystal clear water

So since you state you still have cloudy water, you have not passed the SLAM hence the reason you still have cloudy water. Without getting into minutia of filter issues etc., did you MAINTAIN the FC level of 12 as much as possible for those 10-12 days or just raise it there once a day?
 

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Just once per day. I will try to keep it at this level all day for the next few days and see what happens.

I have NEVER had to use this much chlorine before, not even close, and I have had pools for the last 20 years, I am not new to this. This particluar pool I have had for 7 years You guys don't see it as weird that this 1 time out of many years my pool won't clear? Also as I said, my pool would always need to be backwashed at least once per day in years past, green would come out of backwash. This year it NEVER happened. I am using so much chlorine its all you smell anywhere near my pool, for the past week.

It just seems there is something different wrong here. But I will keep the level above 10 for the next few days, I will test every 4 hours. I doubt this is the answer, but thanks for the help.
 
How are you testing? If those are pool $tore numbers, it's not surprising you are having trouble. You need to test your water yourself to know for sure what it's up to.

The SLaM routine is, Test, use PoolMath to get new numbers, dose, wait a little while, Repeat.

Hard to do without a good test kit.
 
Just tested free chlorine is at almost 14. I test again in 4 hours and add more of needed. I will do this for the next few days and let you guys know how it goes. I highly doubt this will make any difference, but I hope you guys are correct!
 
The pressure has NEVER risen above 6-7 psi this year. That is why I posted here because I can't understand why the pressure will not rise in the filter tank. Usually it will rise to about 12-16 and I backwash and all green water comes out. NEVER happened this year, even after brand new filter sand. I backwashed a few times just to see the color of the backwash water, it was pretty much clear water coming out. Pressure ALWAYS at 6-7 PSI and the filter has run for about 240 hours.
 
I replaced the sand 4 days ago with 175 pounds of filter sand. The laterals looked fine and the tank looked fine as well. There was no channeling in the old sand, but since I had it open I replaced the sand anyway. New sand is 4 days old and still no difference, and pressure has not risen. Not even once.
 

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