Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Polaris 280 wheel question

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bloomington (Minneapolis), MN
    Posts
    106

    Polaris 280 wheel question

    On the 3 wheel side are all the wheels supposed to turn together? Currently the one wheel side turns with the middle and right wheel. The left wheel turns on its own. For reference it used to be a track model that I turned into an individual wheel version after the track kept falling off. Thanks!
    Pool: 28K gal, vinyl lined, rectangular, auto cover
    Equipment: Mineral Springs MS-10 SWG, Raypak 266A heater, Jandy CL460 cartridge filter, Pentair superflo 1hp 2spd pump, Polaris PB4-60 booster pump and Polaris 280 cleaner. TF-100 w/speed-stir

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    32

    Re: Polaris 280 wheel question

    Two of the wheels (front and single side) should be driven by a driveshaft, and therefore turn the same. The rear wheel is driven by front wheel connecting with the smaller wheel. I'm not following which of your wheels isn't turn in sync.

    If the ones driven by the driveshaft aren't turning in sync, then check the teeth and the driveshaft. I had missing teeth on mine and the driveshaft was worn down. If the wheel that is not driven by the driveshaft isn't turning at the same speed, ensure that the smaller wheel is engaging with the front wheel when touching the pool. If not, you may need to replace the mechanism that helps the small wheel engage with the rear wheel. Mine was missing the clip that kept it from going to far out of range and the spring was really loose, so it wasn't engaging.

    I'm not familiar enough to know if converted ones have same mechanism, but that's what my 280 has and those are the issues I just recently fixed (amongst others).

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bloomington (Minneapolis), MN
    Posts
    106

    Re: Polaris 280 wheel question

    Quote Originally Posted by gonzodog View Post
    Two of the wheels (front and single side) should be driven by a driveshaft, and therefore turn the same. The rear wheel is driven by front wheel connecting with the smaller wheel. I'm not following which of your wheels isn't turn in sync.

    If the ones driven by the driveshaft aren't turning in sync, then check the teeth and the driveshaft. I had missing teeth on mine and the driveshaft was worn down. If the wheel that is not driven by the driveshaft isn't turning at the same speed, ensure that the smaller wheel is engaging with the front wheel when touching the pool. If not, you may need to replace the mechanism that helps the small wheel engage with the rear wheel. Mine was missing the clip that kept it from going to far out of range and the spring was really loose, so it wasn't engaging.

    I'm not familiar enough to know if converted ones have same mechanism, but that's what my 280 has and those are the issues I just recently fixed (amongst others).
    The wheel that isn't on the driveshaft isn't touching the small wheel at all..
    Pool: 28K gal, vinyl lined, rectangular, auto cover
    Equipment: Mineral Springs MS-10 SWG, Raypak 266A heater, Jandy CL460 cartridge filter, Pentair superflo 1hp 2spd pump, Polaris PB4-60 booster pump and Polaris 280 cleaner. TF-100 w/speed-stir

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bloomington (Minneapolis), MN
    Posts
    106

    Re: Polaris 280 wheel question

    Pool: 28K gal, vinyl lined, rectangular, auto cover
    Equipment: Mineral Springs MS-10 SWG, Raypak 266A heater, Jandy CL460 cartridge filter, Pentair superflo 1hp 2spd pump, Polaris PB4-60 booster pump and Polaris 280 cleaner. TF-100 w/speed-stir

  5. Back To Top    #5
    viking68's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lake Mary, FL
    Posts
    68

    Re: Polaris 280 wheel question

    I've rebuilt my 280 about 3 times in the last 10 years. There is not a single part left from the original unit! It came with the house 12 years ago and was fairly worn out when I got it.

    Couple things to check:

    You can adjust the rear wheel forward to engage the idler wheel (small one in the middle), but by the looks of it, it could be the swing axle that the idler wheel is mounted to. There is a T-nut and spring behind it together with a plastic guide. All these parts can be had for about $10-$15 on-line - Swing Axle Kit C-36.

    Does the idler wheel move and spring back?

    And, like gonzodog said, check for wear on the teeth inside the drive wheels. If the shaft is okay, but the front wheel is worn, it might have been adjusted too tightly against the shaft. Quick fix for this is swap the front wheel with the back wheel (there is nothing touching the teeth on the back wheel - so no wear.

    If you do this, 2 things to be aware of: the bearings WILL fall apart if you're not careful - like BB's bouncing around. Also, very easy to "strip" the slotted head - use a tight-fitting screw driver for removing. Pool stores want like $10/ea for the bearings (there are 2 on each wheel); you can find those on-line for $5-6, sometimes less if you buy in quantities of 4-8.

    EDIT: During my last rebuild, the wheels come already mounted with tires, bearings and adjustment plate. If the wheel gears are significantly worn, just opt for a tune-up kit like this: ($145 online)

    Untitled.jpg

    The other thing - when mounting the wheels and adjusting to the axle you DO NOT WANT a "tight" fit, rather a 2/3 to 3/4 "engagement" of the drive axle to the teeth. It's a little tough to get this right, but you'll get the hang of it.

    Oh, and be careful if adjusting the wheels to not loose the little copper/brass star washers under the adjusting screws. I did and replaced with stainless steel ones from the hardware store. That'll work - for maybe a week or two and then the wheel falls off. Been there, done that. Something about the alloys and water chemistry and galvanic action or some such. There is a reason they are not Stainless!

    Let us know if any of this works.
    16K gal, IG Free-Form Plaster (1986), 1 HP Pentair Superflo pump, PAC FAB FNS-36 DE Filter, Polaris 280, Screened, Cool Deck.
    Solar Heater
    TF-100 Test Kit

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bloomington (Minneapolis), MN
    Posts
    106

    Re: Polaris 280 wheel question

    Quote Originally Posted by viking68 View Post
    I've rebuilt my 280 about 3 times in the last 10 years. There is not a single part left from the original unit! It came with the house 12 years ago and was fairly worn out when I got it.

    Couple things to check:

    You can adjust the rear wheel forward to engage the idler wheel (small one in the middle), but by the looks of it, it could be the swing axle that the idler wheel is mounted to. There is a T-nut and spring behind it together with a plastic guide. All these parts can be had for about $10-$15 on-line - Swing Axle Kit C-36.

    Does the idler wheel move and spring back?

    And, like gonzodog said, check for wear on the teeth inside the drive wheels. If the shaft is okay, but the front wheel is worn, it might have been adjusted too tightly against the shaft. Quick fix for this is swap the front wheel with the back wheel (there is nothing touching the teeth on the back wheel - so no wear.

    If you do this, 2 things to be aware of: the bearings WILL fall apart if you're not careful - like BB's bouncing around. Also, very easy to "strip" the slotted head - use a tight-fitting screw driver for removing. Pool stores want like $10/ea for the bearings (there are 2 on each wheel); you can find those on-line for $5-6, sometimes less if you buy in quantities of 4-8.

    EDIT: During my last rebuild, the wheels come already mounted with tires, bearings and adjustment plate. If the wheel gears are significantly worn, just opt for a tune-up kit like this: ($145 online)

    Untitled.jpg

    The other thing - when mounting the wheels and adjusting to the axle you DO NOT WANT a "tight" fit, rather a 2/3 to 3/4 "engagement" of the drive axle to the teeth. It's a little tough to get this right, but you'll get the hang of it.

    Oh, and be careful if adjusting the wheels to not loose the little copper/brass star washers under the adjusting screws. I did and replaced with stainless steel ones from the hardware store. That'll work - for maybe a week or two and then the wheel falls off. Been there, done that. Something about the alloys and water chemistry and galvanic action or some such. There is a reason they are not Stainless!

    Let us know if any of this works.
    The teeth on the wheels look fine and everything turns together except the rear/left wheel. Just wasn't sure if it needed to move with the rest or if it was supposed to be independent. It used to be a "trax" model if that makes a difference.
    Pool: 28K gal, vinyl lined, rectangular, auto cover
    Equipment: Mineral Springs MS-10 SWG, Raypak 266A heater, Jandy CL460 cartridge filter, Pentair superflo 1hp 2spd pump, Polaris PB4-60 booster pump and Polaris 280 cleaner. TF-100 w/speed-stir

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    32

    Re: Polaris 280 wheel question

    Were you able to get the wheel adjusted? If you loosed the rear wheel axle screws some, you may be able to slide the wheel forward to engage the idler wheel. I also replaced the t-nut and spring on my idler wheel, and that helped. The plastic guide/clip is also needed, to keep the idler wheel to moving up and down, and not out to the side.

    You definitely need the rear wheel to be engaged by the idler wheel.
    Long time swimmer, first time pool owner
    Odd shaped, 30,000 gals, plaster
    Hayward DE 6020
    Pentair WF-26 1.5 HP
    TF-100 Testkit

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bloomington (Minneapolis), MN
    Posts
    106

    Re: Polaris 280 wheel question

    No, just letting it run. It's been doing fine so far
    Pool: 28K gal, vinyl lined, rectangular, auto cover
    Equipment: Mineral Springs MS-10 SWG, Raypak 266A heater, Jandy CL460 cartridge filter, Pentair superflo 1hp 2spd pump, Polaris PB4-60 booster pump and Polaris 280 cleaner. TF-100 w/speed-stir

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •