Please look at my readings

Apr 25, 2016
57
Owasso , OK
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I opened the pool last week. This is our 5th year. During our 2nd year we noticed the plaster being very rough. That is when I started looking at the different pool forums and checking my own pool chemistry. I received my TF-100 kit in the mail today. Prior to that I was using the Taylor K2006. Before I got my new TF-100 I went to the pool store and got these readings:

FC - 4
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 110
CH - 270
CYA - 80

Here is what I got today with my TF-100:

FC - 6
CC - 0
pH - 7.8
TA - 80
CH - 525 WHAT?
CYA - 60
Borates - 30ppm

I tested the CH 3 times because I didn't believe the numbers but it is 525.
I added 2 pints of acid to bring the pH down to 7.4 to bring the Saturation Index to +0.15.
My question is this, can I leave my CH at 525 and bring the TA down to around 50 or 60 or is 525 CH too high?
The other issue is my pH tends to run high. Last year I was adding a pint of acid (hence my username) almost every day and then baking soda when the TA got too low. I have been trying to find a sweet spot where I don't have to add acid every day but I haven't found it yet. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Yes, CH at 525 and TA at 50-60 is good. Lower TA will also help reduce your PH rise. Keep your CSI on the negative side, -0.1 to -0.3. It is also good for your SWG.

You can use wet/dry sandpaper to smooth the rough plaster. Or you can lower your CSI to -0.5 to -0.6 and brush as often as you can stand it. A couple of months of low CSI and brushing should help you make some progress on that scale.

If you are using cal-hypo in your pool stop now, it is adding calcium to the pool.

More here, Pool School - Calcium Scaling

And here, Langelier and Calcite Saturation Indices (LSI and CSI)
 
Welcome to TFP, great start with a great kit :) Poolmath is now you friend and will help keep you CSI in the negative range, check out the links in my signature, we will get you going..
 
Your CH at 525 is livable. The advice above gets you on the right track to managing it.

Test the CH of your pool water and, if it's high, think about capturing rainwater from a downspout to reduce it. You could always drain off some water oif you wished but make sure your fill water isn't 200 or more or it will be wasted.
 
Regarding your pH rising consistently. I have never found a "sweet spot" which isn't unusual for SWG pools. I add 1/2 gallon every 3 or 4 days in season for 27K gallons.

And hey, somehow I added too much CH to my pool this spring and mine is exactly where yours is. You don't mention your salt level but I presume it's in the low-mid 3K's. Did you have that in when determining your CSI? I do know that salt and calcium offset each other to some extent for CSI purposes which is why CH is recommended at slightly higher levels for SWG pools. I'm not an expert in that area but those are some thoughts to move forward that part of the conversation.
 
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